B
Bunker
Im getting bleedin annoyed with em. I dont get many but when I do they are always the furthest away. I have decided to create a checklist which I will print and each one gets left at the custards until its fixed. I wil explain to the custard the nature of intermittent faults and we can only check so much before starting to swap bits out. We may even get to the end of a few visits and parts and still not find it so a new burner might be necessary, or they can choose that option at the end of Stage 1.
Below is my current procedure(ish), Id welcome any thoughts (when its finished anyone is welcome to use of course if useful). These are not necessarily in the right order:
STAGE 1.
Question 1.
Is it definitely locking out - ie you are able to restore the boiler when you push the LOCK OUT reset on the burner. (some I have had turn out to be limit stats and the custard telling you its locking out).
Question 2.
Is there any pattern you can think of, ie:
Locking out in mid program, ie when hot.
Locking out on first start up, ie when cold
Locking out when there is a frost/ strong winds
Question 3.
When you reset it, how long will it run for before locking out again?
Question 4.
When it resets, does it always fire straight away or not sometimes. If not what noises does it make?
Engineer now to check:
Oil tank/ line filter/s - if bad, clean/ replace and check pump filter if appropriate.
Dip tank with water paste on a stick.
Flow of oil from flexible at pump.
Photocell - condition and electrical test.
Coil resistance cold and running 10 mins
Capacitor - test
POC when running with and without snorkel if balanced
How does the burner sound? raspy/ smooth etc?
Check pump pressure for appropriate reading and steadiness of needle.
Check oil line for weeps/ loose fittings.
Have a look at the flue terminal if accessible/ is there a cowl if vertical.
Remove burner:
Photocell - check light is not obstructed by HT leads/ moth etc- drill 3mm hole in blast tube if necessary.
Check condition of drive coupling
How does motor feel to turn with a finger?
Check spark - remove coil lead and watch spark for arcing/ strength/ in flame path?
Check EBI & leads for physical defaults/ signs of arcing.
Replace:
Nozzle (check sintered filter for any evidence)
If any of the above is abnormal, deal with it and charge for call out and time/ parts explaining that it may well be fixed but time will tell. Personally I wont charge for the next call out if within 2 weeks (Ill charge for time on the ground but not the call out fee).
STAGE 2.
Replace control box (unless RDB), Photocell, coil
Keep old ones in the case, do not charge for any components until its all sorted.
STAGE 3.
Change pump
Stage 4.
Replace Burner.
Below is my current procedure(ish), Id welcome any thoughts (when its finished anyone is welcome to use of course if useful). These are not necessarily in the right order:
STAGE 1.
Question 1.
Is it definitely locking out - ie you are able to restore the boiler when you push the LOCK OUT reset on the burner. (some I have had turn out to be limit stats and the custard telling you its locking out).
Question 2.
Is there any pattern you can think of, ie:
Locking out in mid program, ie when hot.
Locking out on first start up, ie when cold
Locking out when there is a frost/ strong winds
Question 3.
When you reset it, how long will it run for before locking out again?
Question 4.
When it resets, does it always fire straight away or not sometimes. If not what noises does it make?
Engineer now to check:
Oil tank/ line filter/s - if bad, clean/ replace and check pump filter if appropriate.
Dip tank with water paste on a stick.
Flow of oil from flexible at pump.
Photocell - condition and electrical test.
Coil resistance cold and running 10 mins
Capacitor - test
POC when running with and without snorkel if balanced
How does the burner sound? raspy/ smooth etc?
Check pump pressure for appropriate reading and steadiness of needle.
Check oil line for weeps/ loose fittings.
Have a look at the flue terminal if accessible/ is there a cowl if vertical.
Remove burner:
Photocell - check light is not obstructed by HT leads/ moth etc- drill 3mm hole in blast tube if necessary.
Check condition of drive coupling
How does motor feel to turn with a finger?
Check spark - remove coil lead and watch spark for arcing/ strength/ in flame path?
Check EBI & leads for physical defaults/ signs of arcing.
Replace:
Nozzle (check sintered filter for any evidence)
If any of the above is abnormal, deal with it and charge for call out and time/ parts explaining that it may well be fixed but time will tell. Personally I wont charge for the next call out if within 2 weeks (Ill charge for time on the ground but not the call out fee).
STAGE 2.
Replace control box (unless RDB), Photocell, coil
Keep old ones in the case, do not charge for any components until its all sorted.
STAGE 3.
Change pump
Stage 4.
Replace Burner.
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