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Discuss Hot water feed gate valve in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Oakbeck

I have a problem with a faulty hot water feed valve from my hot water tank.
After isolating the valve to carry out some work in the bathroom it will not now open to a stop, ie it keeps turning as if the spindle is faulty. With the result that no hot water will now flow to the hot taps. In order to fir a replacement valve I would normally isolate the loft co.d water header tank and drain off the hot water via the hot taps but I cannot empty the cylinder via the taps. Any ideas?
 
Is the valve on the cold feed to a vented hot water cylinder or on a hot draw off? If its on the cold feed ti the crlinder simply run the hot taps downstairs and drain the cwsc by running the low pressure cold taps probably on the bath. There will still be whatever water is above the valve in the pipe but some towels and a bucket should cope with it. Then just undo the compression nuts and swap the vlave for a new one. If the valve body is a different size you may have to remove the old olives.
 
Entirely different procedures depending on where the valve is positioned.
Post a pic or describe it better. Then se can help [emoji3]
 
Thanks for your replies. I took advantage of the suggested isolator 'bung' in the CW header tank feed and changed the fractured spindle. All now works fine.
 
Solutions, apologies if I'm misreading your post, but you don't seem to have taken account of the 50/100litres of water behind the broken valve coming from the tank in the loft, ok if you want to attempt a snatch change, but as you say they might need to change the olives, I think a big towel might be required as you haven't advised to bung the cold feed or drain tank via cold storage taps
 
Solutions, apologies if I'm misreading your post, but you don't seem to have taken account of the 50/100litres of water behind the broken valve coming from the tank in the loft, ok if you want to attempt a snatch change, but as you say they might need to change the olives, I think a big towel might be required as you haven't advised to bung the cold feed or drain tank via cold storage taps
Thats why I said drain it through the low pressure cold taps.
Agreed that makes the assumption the Op will know to stop it filling from the ball valve first. It assumes that the hot water cylinder is fed from the same cold water storage cylinder as the low pressure cold taps and it assumes there are low pressure cold taps. Most I would like to think are safe assumptions. Bunging is however more expediant and less wastefull of water but I dont trust a bung on a 50 gallon plus tank.
 
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