Discuss central heating pump cavitation when hot wilo Gold R550 pump, in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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I found this site via google and it appears to be the best place to ask this question, so hopefully some one can help.

a year ago me and the wife got our first house, a nice 50s semi and as a bonus the old lady who lived there before us had had a new boiler fitted back in 2008, a Viessman VITODENS 100 ( the boiler before was a baxi back boiler as we still have the gas fire) at the time the new new boiler was put upstairs in the airing cupboard, new controls and wireless stat fitted, and all the old rads fitted with thermostats, plus a new hot water tank was fitted.

When we moved in back in dec 2010 i noticed the pump wasn't the quietest thing, but I had just moved out of my folks place which was a new build with a all singing all dancing beast installed...

I changed most of the rads last spring as the old rads were from the 60s and gave off no heat! so now I have the following fitted:

2 existing curved rads from the 60s, no fins. 1740mm x 620mm and 1270mm x 620mm (Both of these plan to be changed in the spring for 800 x 600 doubles, which is a bit over kill according to the online calculaors, however the way the bay is built does't keep in masses of heat as its single brick thick, and in the bed room the roof of the bay is flat with lead flashing and I suspect no insulation)

then the rest are all from Wickes, fitted with fins:

1100 x 600 single x2
800 x 400 single
800 x 600 double
1400 x 600 single
1600 x 600 single

The system has a WILO Gold R550 pump fitted, pumping downwards.

The problem is the pump is silent when cold, but as soon as the water starts to heats and gets above 45 deg it sounds like it is cavitating, and on initial start up you sometimes get a sloshy-slooush sound too.

I have tried the system on speed 1, but this just causes the boiler to cut out due to over heating..

it was running on speed 2 when we moved in, and has been for the last year, however when I mentioned to a friend that I seem to keep getting air in the bathroom and back bed room rads and described my noise to him he said I was getting cavitation and to turn the pump up to see if that helps.

I also filled the system with Feronox that he reccomended, (the system appears to be clear as when changing the rads last year we drained it and refilled it, but at the time I did not put any addative in as I was planning on doing the other 2 rads shortly after, however that plan got put on hold)

I tried speed 3 but it still made the noise...just higher pitched.

I have noticed though that the hall rad which is the long one gets hot on the inlet, and along the top, but the outlet never gets above luke warm, I tried to balance the system but with limited success.

any thoughts on what to do? the boiler temp is set to about 53 deg, it normally goes up to about 57deg cuts out, cools down to mid 40s then clicks back in again. (the heating is not controlled by a room thermostat, but I will start another post for that shambles!)

cheers

Karl
 
Sounds like there is alot of restriction in the system. I would reccomened from what you are saying that its time for a new boiler and a conversion to a sealed system
 
Right.

First of all you shouldn't have a boiler that locks out at 50'c +
Sounds like you have air in the system thou

How full is your f and e?
Are all valves fully open on pump. And others that should be fully open

Do you have trv's
 
Even pictures of pump arrangement and pipework would be good
 
the boiler will go higher than 50 deg, last winter when it was sub 0 for a few weeks and we had the old 60s rads it was running at 70 deg, I have turned it down as now we have the new rads the house does get warm enough, we have TRV's on every rad (apart from the hall one) these are set to 20deg at the mo (we don't have a main stat - see here for why http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/c...on-digistat-scr-appears-have-been-passed.html )

what do you mean by "how full is your f and e"? (sorry I am more than happy building car engines and doing DIY etc, but I am only just starting out on my understanding of the in's and out's of central heating systems)

I will double check the pump valves now,

cheers

Karl
 
Boiler install
DSCF3290.jpg


feed and return
DSCF3292.jpg


Pipes down by the water tank
DSCF3293.jpg


Pipes down from pump and into 3 way valve
DSCF3294.jpg


Pipes going under floor to rads and hot water feed to kitchen
DSCF3295.jpg


Checked the valves, and both on the pump are fully open.
 
Dumtedum dum deee... de dummm te dummm dummm!!! LOL

Guess this post is dead? Excuse me op! Did you have your system flushed out B4 installing? Not that its an issue but can rule out afew :)
 
I have done some calcs and the smallest boiler in my range is 25Kw, all my rads (inc the new ones planned) only add up to 11Kw in total.

I don't know if the system was flushed, but I did drain and re fill a couple of times when we changed the rads and a couple of valves.

I am sure it is cavatation in the pump due to it being quiet at lower temps, so I just need to find out why / how to fix it? (different pump? or different location?)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have replied a couple of times to this, but it says my posts are waiting for an admin to approve them,

there should be pics etc being posted when they are approved.

I have done some calcs and the smallest boiler in my range is 25Kw, all my rads (inc the new ones planned) only add up to 11Kw in total.

I don't know if the system was flushed, but I did drain and re fill a couple of times when we changed the rads and a couple of valves.

I am sure it is cavatation in the pump due to it being quiet at lower temps, so I just need to find out why / how to fix it? (different pump? or different location?)

try taking the pump apart and inspecting the impellor
 
It would appear that you are getting air pulled in to the system when the pump starts up, the pump should not be on setting 3, usually 1 or 2. The vent and the feed pipe should be before the pump ideally no more than 150mm apart otherwise on start up it can draw air in from the vent. A photo of the pipes would help.
 
Good luck ! :)

However if you'd like to talk heating system design flow rates and temo diff f&r expectations, system requirements etc then you may be in luck on this site! Cavitation is for engineering ipellor design folk IMHO! A pump circulats water around heating systems upto and including 80 degC. Cavitation is a bi product of poor design IMHO :)
 
do you have a by pass ? if not and your trvs shut down ther is a lot of resistance for your pump to overcome this could poss cause noise imo
 
there are photos up now, on page 1, I can try and get pics from in the loft tomorrow as the pipes go straight out of the boiler, in to the loft and then appear to come back down as shown in the pics with the pump on the feed side.
 
taken the pump out of the loop today and taken it apart, theres a bit of black crud in there (which is a bit odd as when we drained the system it was pretty clear, although some rads did have some black crud in, and now when ever you bleed a rad its pretty clear bar a slight pale yellow tint)

should there be play in and out of the impellor? as mine moves in and out about 1 - 2mm, the bearing doesnt appear to have colapsed as In can not rock it up and down.

Karl
 
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