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A simple underfloor heating layout system? Advise please!

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micketherton

I have just fitted 7 underfloor heating pipe loops of my 3 floored Victorian house. I have the idea to make up a simple "natural" system without any auxillary items, using two manifolds made with 22mm push-fit copper tee pipes and locate it under the ground floor staircase in cupboard.

2 upper floors of wood with 4 loops on spreader plates; and 3 ground floor on screeded loops, with 2 convential rads serving existing area.

I intend to use a combi condensing boiler, and run the supply heating pipe first directly to two in-line conventional radiators, then return that flow to the input manifold for the 4 underfloor wooden upper floor heating loops. That return manifold will go an input manifold supplying the 3 underfloor concrete ground floor heating loops. Then this return manifold will go back to the boiler!


I figure the conventional radiators will lower the water temperature down for the wooden floor manifold, then this lower temperature water return will go into the concrete floor manifold, which will then return to the boiler at a much cooler temperature! Thus making a very efficient condensing system. I will monitor the temperature drop with temporary thermometers at each return manifold to see how it works out !


I will balance the loops with gatevalves on their returns (or what else do you suggest).

I intend to only use the inbuilt boiler water temperature thermostat and timer, to control the whole house's heating temperature, and to only use the inbuilt boiler pump to circulate the system. I can always retro fit thermostatic radiator valves in-line on each loop in each of the rooms if the heating is uneven.

Q.1. Do I need to put in any Automatic Airbleed Valves on the upper storey loops, or is there enough water pressure in the system to force any air bubbles back down to the manifold AAV on the ground floor? If not, where does the AAV go? -Just before the return pipe goes vertically down to the ground floor manifold?

Q.2. Do I put AAV,s on BOTH the inlet AND return manifolds?

Q.3. Is the inbuilt combi pump strong enough to do this job? 6m head. Any recommendatations of a good boiler! Is a Smart Pump a good idea?


Q3. Is this workable? and what else should I consider. All your thoughts are most welcome- good or bad! mant thanks
 
mick it takes some going to annoy the chaps on here,

its not like other forums as i have said in the past. Take a hint and call in some underfloor guys, of which I am not.
 
You should have a secondary pump for the UFH and if using a combi you need to check MI's that you can have a secondary pump. So you're retro fitting of mani and pump idea if it doesn't work properly (which it won't) will go out the window if you can't have one on your particular boiler. Just do it properly INHO or not at all.


If you fit a low loss header you can have a primary and secondary pump (or multiple pumps) and they will work properly with any boiler if designed correctly, but its not a diy job, and neither is underfloor in my opinion
 
alot of guys don't even do underfloor heating, it seems to be a bit of a specialist job...so I would advise you to listen to these guys and get someone in to do it properly

Just because it may look simple doesn't mean that it is considering you have missed out the most important parts of the system then you clearly don't understand it so listen to what people are saying and get a professional in
 
Many thanks for your informed opinion

Can you answer me this though. As every other response is also so full of wisdom, but the question is still not answered !

Is there enough water pressure, either within the combi pump system (or using mains pressure) to purge any possible future air build up in the upper floor loops, down the the ground floor maifold AAV. Or do I need to add additional air bleed points on the high points on each of the upper loops . (I'd rather not do this if possible, as it would be difficult aesethitically to put in place in the rooms).

As said mant times in my previous replies, I can easily retro fit a conventianal manifold system if my plan doesn't work out. But it would be very difficult to add air bleed valves to the upper floor loops under the T&G engineered oak floor if required!

So I need to know now if I will be able to get rid of any air in those upper loops by isolating at the manifolds and purging each loop with either the boiler heating water pressure, or even using a mains feed into the system?

Many thanks

Mick

the reason for my Oh Dear is the fact that every person that has answered you is giving you extremely good free advice after years of experiance, that fact that you are refusing to acknowledge that what they are saying means that there is no point in answering the question, because you will keep asking for opinions until you get the answer you want.
So might I suggest that before you go any further with your install and waste any more of your own time and money you contact any number of underfloor manufacturers, who usually run courses on how to install there products and go and ask them the same questions, you will then find out why the guys here who are trying to assist you are getting exasperated
 
Ive just read your post good sir. i do underfloor heating installations so i know a bit bout them. in answer to your questions on the first post:
Q1 Answer - Thats the least of your worries
Q2 Answer - Thats the least of your worries
Q3 Answer - Thats the least of your worries
Q4 Answer - Is it workable - in a word NO! and "what else should you consider" - Get someone in who knows what they are talking about because your idea isnt going to work.

sorry to burst your bubble but one day youll sell that house along with all the problems your about to put into it.

have a nice day.
 
Many thanks for this information!

I do not have any airlocks at the moment, as the system is un-connected and un- pressurised. I don't imagine that 30mm of sharp sand gently screeded over the plastic pipe would crush it, so I didn't screed with pipes under pressure.

yes I know it is against regulations!

Any other problems I can easily rectify at the manifold.

Manny many thanks for you interest in the project and I will post you the outcome when it is up and not running!!!

regards Mick

Paragraph 1) that was your first BIG mistake. always screed when pipes are under pressure (the pressure should be pumped up to about 7 bar whilst screeding is setting depending on what underfloor product your using

Paragraph 2) You know its against regs yet your still ignoring the fact?

Paragraph 3) i doubt it now.

Paragraph 4) so you think its not going to be running? well so do we so well see you back here in a week or so? well be waiting :rolleyes:;):p
 
i forsee cracked floors due to expansion !

I Guarantee Cracked floors lol. that stuff is science 101. materials that rise in temperature do what??? oh yes they EXPAND

Materials like brick, stone, cement, SCREED are considered.......... Stretchy? I think not. LOL
 
Well he's been warned. What more can you do?

I was called to a property years ago, the customer said it's too hot. I arrive and you could have cooked an egg on the marble floor tiles. The system had several problems (installation problems) and they were lucky the floor didn't crack. The mixing valve was installed but set way too high...anyway I digress. This was a system fitted by an DIYer, who wanted to save money on his kitchen extension and figured if he just ran the manifold from his heating system everything would be ok. Yes he had a mixing valve, but the system had not been commisioned or wired correctly.

They were lucky not to damage their floor. You might not be so lucky, so get some professional advise...yes you will probably have to pay some £££'s for it, but somethings are worth paying for.
 
Most of the underfloor systems i have fitted have required the pipework to be left at 6bar when screeded over, then dependant on what the screed is made of the temp needs to be controlled and slowly increased as to not shock the screed compound and cause cracking in the floor. I can only see one outcome to this situation.

Most underfloor manufactures will help with design and even produce drawings for you free of charge if you are buying there kit, when i have been unsure in the past i have requested them onsite for advise and they are happy to help.

Let us know how you get on?
 
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You should have a secondary pump for the UFH and if using a combi you need to check MI's that you can have a secondary pump. So you're retro fitting of mani and pump idea if it doesn't work properly (which it won't) will go out the window if you can't have one on your particular boiler. Just do it properly INHO or not at all.

Many thanks for that advice, I will take note. Thanks
 
Most of the underfloor systems i have fitted have required the pipework to be left at 6bar when screeded over, then dependant on what the screed is made of the temp needs to be controlled and slowly increased as to not shock the screed compound and cause cracking in the floor. I can only see one outcome to this situation.

Most underfloor manufactures will help with design and even produce drawings for you free of charge if you are buying there kit, when i have been unsure in the past i have requested them onsite for advise and they are happy to help.

Let us know how you get on?


Many thanks for your advice.
I did infact fit UFH in one of the 12m2 ground floor rooms 8 years ago, with 50mm screed overlay. I just supplied it with the return on the last radiator in the system and it worked fine with no cracked floors etc.

I know you will ALL really really hate me now!

I am buying two proper manifolds now though; one floor the screeded flloor loops and one for the suspendend wooden floors, so I will be able to easily add a secondary ULH pump and mixer valves when it goes pear shaped. I'm going to fit inline TRVs in the bedroom loops to act as room thermostats.

many thanks

Mick
 
I think all your trying to do mate is take the micky, listen to people that know, think the replys from the lads have been very ploite, dont push it anymore.
Hi Howsie For your reassurance, I am not going to fit the boiler myself, I found a nice chap from Watchdog!
 
mick it takes some going to annoy the chaps on here,

its not like other forums as i have said in the past. Take a hint and call in some underfloor guys, of which I am not.

Hi Smillsey. Yes I do appear to have touched a nerve. I do really appreciate everyones advice. I will let everyone know how I get on (with whatever set up I end up with) when I buy a a boiler etc in a few weeks time. Although this winter will be the true test.
 
what screed compound have you put down and what is the manufactures recommended drying timescale for the screed? these can be critical to when and how you commission the UFH. many screeds although dry and able to walk upon within a day or two take weeks and months to fully dry/cure.
 
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