3 port zone valve question

[monks]

I turned my heating on for the first time this year and found that although the hot water is OK, there is no heating. The boiler doesn't kick in when I turn up the thermostat.

I checked the zone valve switch which slipped so I changed it. However I noticed that the spindle which operates the brass valve only turns a tiny bit. How much should it turn? It doesn't seem to turn enough to me, only a fraction of an inch. I tried a spanner on it to see if it was stuck but it moves freely and stops like it's come to the end of its travel. Another thing is when I do turn it it bangs both ways. Also the pump seems to be pumping OK.

Anyway, the boiler still doesn't kick in. Any ideas? (The valve is the new type which has just two screws)

Thanks in advance.

 

[myles]

Ummm get someone qualified to look at it before you start changing things that dont need changing ie the 3 port valve that moves back into position as it should when no demand

 

[kris]

Hi monks. Your right the valve only turns a little bit . Although it may be the valve head or the timer that is faulty. If your hot water works fine then the pumps ok so either the room stat or zone valve . If it was me I'd try it manually and make sure the room stat is calling for heat. If the zone valve is gone then the head can be replaced easily. There's a slim chance it could be your time clock . For safety reasons don't mess with the wiring unless qualified or competent to do so.

 

[monks]

Hi monks. Your right the valve only turns a little bit . Although it may be the valve head or the timer that is faulty. If your hot water works fine then the pumps ok so either the room stat or zone valve . If it was me I'd try it manually and make sure the room stat is calling for heat. If the zone valve is gone then the head can be replaced easily. There's a slim chance it could be your time clock . For safety reasons don't mess with the wiring unless qualified or competent to do so.

Thanks for your help. I did replace the Honeywell switch as the old one was slipping so I assumed that the micro switches weren't being tripped. I have a wireless thermostat and I reset that and it flashes on the receiver next to the boiler, so I know it is connecting OK. I set the time clock to 'run' and the light is on. Still not kicking in.

 

[GasmanxxxR1]

Had a run of faulty programmers, hot water fine, but no voltage from it when central heating is on

 

[GasmanxxxR1]

if you know your way around a multimeter and are competent to do so check if youve got 230v at the receiver/hard wired part of the room stat, across a-b or 1-2 wich ever type you have

 

[monks]

Hi, I think I may have found the problem but I still need help. I think the Siemens RDH10RF set I have is faulty. I reset it and it is receiving a signal but still not firing up. Is there a way I can short the unit to test it? I tried 'override' but it does nothing. I have seen that there is a capacitor or something inside the receiver that fails. Any ideas?

 

[monks]

Well knock me down with a feather! It works now. I gave the receiver a good hard bang with my knuckles and it fired up. Thanks everyone who tried to help.

 

[kris]

Knuckles, hammer there all good at fixing the gravest of problems lol

 

[Dotty]

Well knock me down with a feather! It works now. I gave the receiver a good hard bang with my knuckles and it fired up. Thanks everyone who tried to help.

Brute force and ignorance. The cause of and solution to many of life's problems.........

 

[Ermintrude]

It's the relay. They are renown for being cacca. To test join L1 and Lx ( obviously with power off) then power up

 

[happyflyer]

Drowned-ed in a fountain of knowledge, I used to be a plumber, but I am all right now :wazzzup: now I are one


Baldy Old Git