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hammers4spanner

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HAS this solenoid gas valve gone kaput ?
its an inline valve on two inch iron , went to switch it on via the fire watch , heard the valve power up and firewatch clicked to test , was in test mode for couple minutes then flicked back to shut off. Tried this several times and same each time , solenoid is magnatised but just not opening so am i right to presume valve has gone or could it be an issue in the firewatch box??
 
are there any test points to see if it opens when you say firewatch box are these manual knock off buttons or auto temp fused links what voltages are employed are they volt free signals are relays used for switching if you can tells us a bit more some one might be able to help
 
their are test points after the solenoid but no gas is passing through , the fire watch is a key turn which switches it to test but then wont go live . there is a knock off button on the firewatch.
 
sorry im proably not going to be a lot of help commercial/industrial systems are so bespoke the key switches to test what. is this test pipe integrity or is it a wider test for all auto components proir to start up could for example a fused link have broken and be holding off the circuit at the moment all i can think of is a process of elimation if everything else in the system can be tested solenoid for resistance switches for continuity etc is it linked to a machine control panel the more info the better but as i say because its so bespoke its very hard to imagine the system you might have to describe it in some detail
 
their are test points after the solenoid but no gas is passing through , the fire watch is a key turn which switches it to test but then wont go live . there is a knock off button on the firewatch.
you need to pm a commercial guy like croppie or simon Johns
 
Sounds like the solenoid's had it. These are designed to fail safe so close when the power drops them, either through fault, fire or stop button activation, they close.

Because they are are almost permanently energised you get a build up of heat which can, with older and cheaper valves, distort the spindle.

Check the power to the solenoid, should be either 240v or 24v depending on the data plate, check the resistance of the coil, you should get roughly 200 ohms.

Tap the solenoid with your footies when It's energised, you may be able to persuade it to open.

But it was bound to go sooner or later. You're definitely looking at a new one in the long run!
 
Thatys what i done to be honest , gave it gentle tap then eventually it clicked to live , i think in the long run its going to need to be replaced
 
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