K
k13wjd
i was planning on removing this old soil pipe, and replacing it with a longer new one...but it simply WILL NOT MOVE.....
any ideas ????
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removing old soil pipe...tough !
Discuss removing old soil pipe...tough ! in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net
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i was planning on removing this old soil pipe, and replacing it with a longer new one...but it simply WILL NOT MOVE.....
any ideas ????
Toddyplumb
Gas Engineer
- Messages
- 983
Get some solvent cleaner as well and clean that socket before you glue it !
M
mrlennie
The flex was if he couldn't get a fitting in, was that not right?
T
tamz
You could use it but it would look bad. It is not the right thing for the job.
You would use a single or double socket. Preferrably a single as you wouldn't need to chamfer the edge of the pipe in an awkward place.
Next time you are in the merchants lift a load of brochures on different materials and have a read through. Drain center usually have lots.
You will learn a lot from them.
K
k13wjd
Re: removing old soil pipe...tough ! update with pics...more help needed !
right then, 1 tub of solvent clean, and one tub of solvent. Measured up, double checked, made woodwork for pipe supports....re-checked measurements...CUT.
Now, it does fit in the right place, but its facing the roof !!!!
look for yourself.
New pipe in ( dry)
New 90 degree elbow in, no seal ATM
Bottom of unit shimmed - very close to the thickness of my tiles.
Again, shimmed out from the wall by the thickness of a tile.
and WAYHEY, its like a flume !!!!
the nice hole in the panel lines up perfectly with the output of the pan ( when the toilet is shimmed by the same as the unit.
so then, whats my options ??? Flexi from the pan into the 90 ( 2.5 ;-) ) bend, with a short peice of soil pipe ?????
any advice welcome guys. I genuinely appreciate everyones help with this.
right then, 1 tub of solvent clean, and one tub of solvent. Measured up, double checked, made woodwork for pipe supports....re-checked measurements...CUT.
Now, it does fit in the right place, but its facing the roof !!!!
look for yourself.
New pipe in ( dry)
New 90 degree elbow in, no seal ATM
Bottom of unit shimmed - very close to the thickness of my tiles.
Again, shimmed out from the wall by the thickness of a tile.
and WAYHEY, its like a flume !!!!
the nice hole in the panel lines up perfectly with the output of the pan ( when the toilet is shimmed by the same as the unit.
so then, whats my options ??? Flexi from the pan into the 90 ( 2.5 ;-) ) bend, with a short peice of soil pipe ?????
any advice welcome guys. I genuinely appreciate everyones help with this.
Toddyplumb
Gas Engineer
- Messages
- 983
Re: removing old soil pipe...tough ! update with pics...more help needed !
Whos a clever boy then
Angled pan connector
Next lesson ......copper
Whos a clever boy then
Angled pan connectorNext lesson ......copper
K
k13wjd
Re: removing old soil pipe...tough ! update with pics...more help needed !
oh, copper is already done, as i mentioned, i just finished my own CH system, from scratch.
i'm sure i have a 104 degree pan connector about - i'll go work out the angle of dangle of that pipe first.
i guess i had better go figure out the "angle of dangle"
10 cm over 50 cm, 90deg at one corner, = 78.5 degrees....
oh, copper is already done, as i mentioned, i just finished my own CH system, from scratch.
i'm sure i have a 104 degree pan connector about - i'll go work out the angle of dangle of that pipe first.
i guess i had better go figure out the "angle of dangle"
10 cm over 50 cm, 90deg at one corner, = 78.5 degrees....
Last edited by a moderator:
T
tamz
You have a few options depending on what you fancy doing.
The pipe is rising through the unit at too steep an angle so.
1. You could cut the hole lower at the bottom of the unit to allow the pipe to drop. It will then go on with a std pan connector. There is a bit play on them.
2. Get a terrain ringseal adaptor (109) and fit it to the branch instead of gluing it. This will allow a slight deflection at the joint and get you up an inch or so.
3. Get 2 x 45 deg bends inserted to each other and make an offset which could be turned slightly to the side to give the correct height.
4. Get an 11.5 deg bend (only available as drain ie orange) and fit it into the 90. This will straighten the pipe coming through the unit.
5. Use a flexi
An angled pan connector is 14 degrees. It won't be any use to you unless you want to sit the pan on a stool (pun intended)
The pipe is rising through the unit at too steep an angle so.
1. You could cut the hole lower at the bottom of the unit to allow the pipe to drop. It will then go on with a std pan connector. There is a bit play on them.
2. Get a terrain ringseal adaptor (109) and fit it to the branch instead of gluing it. This will allow a slight deflection at the joint and get you up an inch or so.
3. Get 2 x 45 deg bends inserted to each other and make an offset which could be turned slightly to the side to give the correct height.
4. Get an 11.5 deg bend (only available as drain ie orange) and fit it into the 90. This will straighten the pipe coming through the unit.
5. Use a flexi
An angled pan connector is 14 degrees. It won't be any use to you unless you want to sit the pan on a stool (pun intended)
Toddyplumb
Gas Engineer
- Messages
- 983
Mcalpine 45 degree pan connector ? Probably too much (angle)
Why is it they never make the 11 1/2 , 22 etc in soil colours ?
Having gone to all this trouble dont you dare use a flexi
Must admit on these back to unit WC s we normally cut a slot to the ground, if you are carefull you can remove the back panel with the WC pulled forward an inch , can be useful for checkin joints. If you did this you could use straight pan connector probably
Why is it they never make the 11 1/2 , 22 etc in soil colours ?
Having gone to all this trouble dont you dare use a flexi
Must admit on these back to unit WC s we normally cut a slot to the ground, if you are carefull you can remove the back panel with the WC pulled forward an inch , can be useful for checkin joints. If you did this you could use straight pan connector probably
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T
tamz
A slot means the panel can normally be removed without removing the pan if access is ever needed.Why is it they never make the 11 1/2 , 22 etc in soil colours ? Though that one for years.
Having gone to all this trouble dont you dare use a flexi
Must admit on these back to unit WC s we normally cut a slot to the ground, This is what is normally done. if you are carefull you can remove the back panel with the WC pulled forward an inch , can be useful for checkin joints. If you did this you could use straight pan connector probably
K
k13wjd
Re: removing old soil pipe...tough ! Updated AGAIN with photo's
Right then, i think i've cracked it.
Went out today and bought a selection of bends, and the best fit by far is a 15 degree single socket. Fits in nice !
so, i've remounted the unit, shimmed it all up, measured my pan etc, cut a nice peice of 110mm soil for pan connector to 15degree, offered it all up, and it fits like a sweetie. just a shame its orange ! Marked all the pipes with a pan, to ensure they are home in the socket, which they are.
SO, tonight i'll solvent weld that pipe to the soil stack - 24 hours before i can use it right ?? its osmo 1+2 solvent stuff i bought. i've given it a right good clean out..most of the old weld came out with the inside pipe. any tips for the new solvent weld ??? it seems like a giant airfix project !!!
as for the soil pipe i cut, i PRESUME the done thing is to put a nice chamfer on the cut end, so it slides nicely into the seal. i've done it anyway, so i hope it is !!!! all nice and smooth so it won't nick a seal.
as for the straight pan connector - having never fitted a loo, im not 100% sure what to look for in a good connector - so how does this one look....from screwfix IIRC. the seal is a nice tight fit in the 110mm soil pipe, and it seals well onto the pan outlet.
here's a few pics.
Right then, i think i've cracked it.
Went out today and bought a selection of bends, and the best fit by far is a 15 degree single socket. Fits in nice !
so, i've remounted the unit, shimmed it all up, measured my pan etc, cut a nice peice of 110mm soil for pan connector to 15degree, offered it all up, and it fits like a sweetie. just a shame its orange ! Marked all the pipes with a pan, to ensure they are home in the socket, which they are.
SO, tonight i'll solvent weld that pipe to the soil stack - 24 hours before i can use it right ?? its osmo 1+2 solvent stuff i bought. i've given it a right good clean out..most of the old weld came out with the inside pipe. any tips for the new solvent weld ??? it seems like a giant airfix project !!!
as for the soil pipe i cut, i PRESUME the done thing is to put a nice chamfer on the cut end, so it slides nicely into the seal. i've done it anyway, so i hope it is !!!! all nice and smooth so it won't nick a seal.
as for the straight pan connector - having never fitted a loo, im not 100% sure what to look for in a good connector - so how does this one look....from screwfix IIRC. the seal is a nice tight fit in the 110mm soil pipe, and it seals well onto the pan outlet.
here's a few pics.
Toddyplumb
Gas Engineer
- Messages
- 983
Re: removing old soil pipe...tough ! Updated AGAIN with photo's
JUst make sure its all clean and grease free and away you go . Well done !
The bloomin 14 degree pan connector would have worked now ! LOL
JUst make sure its all clean and grease free and away you go . Well done !
The bloomin 14 degree pan connector would have worked now ! LOL
Last edited:
K
k13wjd
Re: removing old soil pipe...tough ! Updated AGAIN with photo's
well, i just solvent welded my first pipe - and i must say it went quite well, gloves on, parts cleaned, glue on both, stick in, twist a tad...and BINGO.
all i can say is WOW, that solvent weld is good gear.... i presume thats the stuff kids put in plastic bags and sniff ??? pretty strong stuff !
i'll leave it overnight, and re-assemble the unit in the morning, before christening it HMS poopalot.
well, i just solvent welded my first pipe - and i must say it went quite well, gloves on, parts cleaned, glue on both, stick in, twist a tad...and BINGO.
all i can say is WOW, that solvent weld is good gear.... i presume thats the stuff kids put in plastic bags and sniff ??? pretty strong stuff !
i'll leave it overnight, and re-assemble the unit in the morning, before christening it HMS poopalot.
T
tamz
Re: removing old soil pipe...tough ! Updated AGAIN with photo's
Well done for having a go. You got there eventually
well, i just solvent welded my first pipe - and i must say it went quite well, gloves on, parts cleaned, glue on both, stick in, twist a tad...and BINGO.
all i can say is WOW, that solvent weld is good gear.... i presume thats the stuff kids put in plastic bags and sniff ??? pretty strong stuff ! I don't think they have really discovered that one but you can get a bit of a dunt off it if you use it for a wee while with the door shut
i'll leave it overnight, and re-assemble the unit in the morning, before christening it HMS poopalot.
Well done for having a go. You got there eventually
K
k13wjd
cheers mate.
give me a week, and look for the threat entitled : How to i plumb a whirlpool bath ? Because thats next. Then its VERY nearly project finished, just need to get the tiler in, and hey presto, 1 central heating system, 1 fancy bathroom...total cost...£3k saving....likely about 3k !
give me a week, and look for the threat entitled : How to i plumb a whirlpool bath ? Because thats next. Then its VERY nearly project finished, just need to get the tiler in, and hey presto, 1 central heating system, 1 fancy bathroom...total cost...£3k saving....likely about 3k !
Toddyplumb
Gas Engineer
- Messages
- 983
Hold on !!!!! Get the tiler in You have done the plumbing but wont tile ????? Come on
You have done the plumbing but wont tile ????? Come on
P
plumbster3456
poor plumbing is worse I would say..... but you have managed to do a pretty good job anyway well done
K
k13wjd
Spark....
My entire fuseboard is protected by a 30ma RCD - and after some advice, i've utilised the mcb+feed from the old imersion heater( used to be in the bathroom ). As it happens, i have a spark mate who will check my wiring after it all...i'll be fitting a 6a pullcord switch in the roof for the whirlpool motor. everything is already earthed well, so not much to do. Besides, my mrs has a massive life insurance policy, so i'll "allow" her to use it before me !!! ;-)
as for tiler, the guy who will be doing the work, Though he doesnt know he got the job, was indeed a guy from tilersforum. Not only the cheapest, but a nice guy, got on well with my dog, gave me a flat £20/m2 rate, and then priced grout etc, and is happy to do the job over 3 days, rather than a rushed 2 days.
My entire fuseboard is protected by a 30ma RCD - and after some advice, i've utilised the mcb+feed from the old imersion heater( used to be in the bathroom ). As it happens, i have a spark mate who will check my wiring after it all...i'll be fitting a 6a pullcord switch in the roof for the whirlpool motor. everything is already earthed well, so not much to do. Besides, my mrs has a massive life insurance policy, so i'll "allow" her to use it before me !!! ;-)
as for tiler, the guy who will be doing the work, Though he doesnt know he got the job, was indeed a guy from tilersforum. Not only the cheapest, but a nice guy, got on well with my dog, gave me a flat £20/m2 rate, and then priced grout etc, and is happy to do the job over 3 days, rather than a rushed 2 days.
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