Radiator off the wall - Am i able to remove radiator

[anagram]

Hi all,

The radiator has fallen off a wall on one side - the screw into the wall seems to have been into the mortar rather than the brick and come out (see Pic1).

Attached are the ends either side of the radiator - my question is, will I be able to isolate and drain this radiator myself? If so... any pointers?

then remove...repair the wall and re-attach. I have the skills for that, just never touched radiators before.

Many thanks.

 

[Stigster]

Yes this something a competent DIYer can do themselves. Here are the steps.

Tools required - Adjustable spanner. Water pump pliers (plumber's grips). Radiator bleed key. Shallow tray. Bucket. Old towels.

1. Close both valves of the radiator. The TRV (where you adjust the temperature) can be screwed closed to 0.
2. Pull the cap off the valve on the right (lockshield valve). It should pull straight up and off. Use an adjustable spanner or grips to close the valve spindle down in a clockwise fashion. Count the number of turns to close it and make note. You will want to open it up the same amount of turns when put back into service.
3. Open the bleed vent at the top of the rad, keep an old towel handy and catch the dribble of water that may or may not issue from there. When there is no air or water coming out of the bleed screw, you have proved the valves are not letting by and it's safe to drain the radiator.
4. Use your grips to hold the body of the lockshield valve tightly and an adjustable spanner to slowly undo the nut closest to the radiator NOT the nut connected to the pipe.
5. Water will start to trickle from the radiator valve area. Catch the water in a shallow container and keep a bucket handy to empty the shallow tray into as you go. Or use a wet vacuum if you have access to one.
6. Don't rush, you may need to gently pry the valve away from the rad to get the water to flow out. Don't use much force. Do that slowly and carefully, you don't want to pull it completely away, just open up the gap to control flow of water.
7. When the water stops flowing you can undo the other valve (TRV) in the same way and lift the radiator off its brackets. It should pull upwards and off the wall. Do this over the old towel as it may drip black sludge on the floor. Tip the last of the water from rad into bucket.

You can then reattach the radiator brackets into the wall and do everything in the reverse order to get it back on.

If the radiator is going to be off the wall more than a few minutes you should cap off the open ends of the valves with a 1/2 inch female blanking cap incase one of them lets by.

Post again when you want to reattach and we can advise further if you have any concerns.

 

[anagram]

Thats brilliant, thanks a lot for the run through.

Porbably won't touch this until the weekend as pipes are fine etc.

Does the lockshield Valve and TRV screwed to 0 stop the water flow into the radiator?

thanks again

 

[Stigster]

Does the lockshield Valve and TRV screwed to 0 stop the water flow into the radiator?

Yes they completely stop the flow. The only problem is if they are failing and letting by but you can prove they are working when you open the bleed vent at the top. If there's no water coming out of there (after possibly issuing a small amount of water when first opened) then the valves are closed and doing their job holding the water back.

 

[anagram]

Yes they completely stop the flow. The only problem is if they are failing and letting by but you can prove they are working when you open the bleed vent at the top. If there's no water coming out of there (after possibly issuing a small amount of water when first opened) then the valves are closed and doing their job holding the water back.

Cheers, thanks a lot. I'll get some female blanking caps as the rad wil be off for best part of a day to repair and paint the wall.

 

[Danb]

Well that sorted that good post stigster.

 

[townfanjon]

Yes this something a competent DIYer can do themselves. Here are the steps.

Tools required - Adjustable spanner. Water pump pliers (plumber's grips). Radiator bleed key. Shallow tray. Bucket. Old towels.

1. Close both valves of the radiator. The TRV (where you adjust the temperature) can be screwed closed to 0.
2. Pull the cap off the valve on the right (lockshield valve). It should pull straight up and off. Use an adjustable spanner or grips to close the valve spindle down in a clockwise fashion. Count the number of turns to close it and make note. You will want to open it up the same amount of turns when put back into service.
3. Open the bleed vent at the top of the rad, keep an old towel handy and catch the dribble of water that may or may not issue from there. When there is no air or water coming out of the bleed screw, you have proved the valves are not letting by and it's safe to drain the radiator.
4. Use your grips to hold the body of the lockshield valve tightly and an adjustable spanner to slowly undo the nut closest to the radiator NOT the nut connected to the pipe.
5. Water will start to trickle from the radiator valve area. Catch the water in a shallow container and keep a bucket handy to empty the shallow tray into as you go. Or use a wet vacuum if you have access to one.
6. Don't rush, you may need to gently pry the valve away from the rad to get the water to flow out. Don't use much force. Do that slowly and carefully, you don't want to pull it completely away, just open up the gap to control flow of water.
7. When the water stops flowing you can undo the other valve (TRV) in the same way and lift the radiator off its brackets. It should pull upwards and off the wall. Do this over the old towel as it may drip black sludge on the floor. Tip the last of the water from rad into bucket.

You can then reattach the radiator brackets into the wall and do everything in the reverse order to get it back on.

If the radiator is going to be off the wall more than a few minutes you should cap off the open ends of the valves with a 1/2 inch female blanking cap incase one of them lets by.

Post again when you want to reattach and we can advise further if you have any concerns.

Jeez , did you copy and paste that lot ?

 

[Stigster]

Jeez , did you copy and paste that lot ?

No, I'm a fairly fast typist as I was one of the first groups of boys to do secretarial studies at secondary school in the early 90s. I did RSA Stage II touch typing exams through that class. One of the exams (on electric typewriters) even made us use a keyboard overlay with no markings so you had to know where every character and key was. Certainly taught me well though.

 

[townfanjon]

No, I'm a fairly fast typist as I was one of the first groups of boys to do secretarial studies at secondary school in the early 90s. I did RSA Stage II touch typing exams through that class. One of the exams (on electric typewriters) even made us use a keyboard overlay with no markings so you had to know where every character and key was. Certainly taught me well though.

Blimey we need a WOW button now , as well as a WTF one .

 

[anagram]

Okay then...

Tightening the valve spindle, the top has snapped off. It was still spinning, if not a bit stiff but it wasn't hard to close.

Is this still doable, or do I need to call someone out to replace this?

 

[Stigster]

Dagnabbit! That is actually a fairly rare occurrence but like everything in life, nothing is ever simple.

Still doable but obviously the valve should be changed for future maintenance purposes. So, if you think you didn't get it closed all the way, all is not lost. Looks to me that you have enough spindle left sticking up to get the job done and it must be nearly closed. Grab it with some grips or pliers and see if you can still turn it to completely close it. TRV closed as well.

Then get your towel and and bleed key and open the bleed screw as discussed in my first post to you. Open it, watch it for three or four minutes and if no more water comes out the bleed screw you are still ok to drain the radiator and put your blanking caps on to do your bracket repair.

If it is letting by and water keeps coming from the bleed screw then just close the screw and you'll either need more advice on changing the damaged lockshield valve or you could call someone in. It depends on your priorities with the rad and the room whether you bite the bullet and change the valve now or get it back on it's brackets, probably be able to open the lockshield again and deal with it later. Decision time!

We can advise either way. Good luck!