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Powerflushing Microbore ...

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DavidGee

I seem to have got different advice from local installers with regard to cleansing the central heating system prior to installing a boiler

I have "twin entry" valves on the radiators and have been told that:

* Powerflushing can be done as normal

* Powerflushing is not possible with microbore / twin entry valves, the radiators will have to be removed and flushed outside.

I am not too sure where to go on this one, as an aside can powerflusing actually harm the system i.e. cause leaks by putting pressure on joints / connectors etc?

I am only changing the boiler due to age, the central heating works well and other than having to have a motor replaced some years ago it has never given any issues, given this I am not too sure what to do for the best

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Them valves are terrible mate, get the pipework altered to have a proper flow and return piped to each side of the radiator( if you have them valves, chances are your radiators are 30 years old, maybe fling some new ones in?).
Then you can get a chemical flush done and see how it goes, if you still suffer from poor circulation you can take it from there.
 
Thanks for the advice, how big a job would that be, would it need the flooring taken up and would I need new radiators for it to work properly and would any other part of the heating need to be touched

Thanks again
 
Personally if your going to the expense of replacing the boilerand re piping, get some properly oversized rads put in so the boiler condenses well.
 
You'll only get so many Btu's out microbore.
Changing the pipework and valves to each radiator should take about 1-2 hours.
Changing the radiators should take about 1 hour.
Pipework can be altered above floor 90% of the time.
 
Thank you, however I do not think that I could replace the piping as such.

If only the valves need changing with additional piping run the length of the radiator that would be fine, any more than that would be cost prohibative
 
Many thanks for the information, just so I understand are you referring to changing all the central heating piping or just the pipework for each radiator? Sorry if this is a basic question but I am assuming that only one pipe the length of the radiator needs to be run (Ie I have two pipes going in one end of the radiator, one needs to be run to the other end)

All the central heating pipework is hidden under the floor and there is no real way that could changed.

Thanks again
 
Personally if your going to the expense of replacing the boilerand re piping, get some properly oversized rads put in so the boiler condenses well.

Nope, that would be properly sized rads based on a ΔT of 40 instead of 50, in which case your rads will be 34% larger than ΔT50
before that though, That doesn't make them oversized. (ΔT40 you will be able to set the flow and return temperaturs at the correct values to run the boiler in condensing mode...)
If you oversize them the boiler will cycle much more frequently.
Run it through the stelrad stars or mears calculators, as the current ones are probably undersized anyway.
(Do it right, do it first time..)

That is NOT oversizing, that is correct sizing.....
 
Micro-bore, like any system will work fine if its installed right, done quite a lot and never had any problems, 10mm best size to use, have come across rubbish systems that don't work , both small bore & micro, Never liked the twin entry valves, even less the ones that connected to the centre of the rad
 
Yes, the micro bore system has been problem free for many years, it has never leaked and I have not had any air in the sytem

This whole issue has been caused through having to have the pipework "flushed" prior to having a new boiler fitted. I am worried that this cleaning could cause problems with the valves / pipework which has never given any issues.

I just wish there was someway around it.
 
Power flushing is not a requirement , just do a chemical flush (Fernox F5) and add a magnaclean filter to system
 
The domestic building services compliance guide does indeed make reference to flushing the system thoroughly.
 
Thank you for that - it' s really interesting - all the installers I have spoken to have insisted that a "powerflush" or radiator removal was required prior to fitting a new boiler.

in practical terms do you think that an installer would actually fit a boiler using Fernox and installing a magnalclean?

Thanks again for the information.
 
It does indeed (I have just found a copy on the net) but does not really specify what form that cleaning should take. All the installers that I have spoken to have insisted that power flushing/ removal of all the radiators is required, however this is not stipulated in the regulations.

Not too sure how Fernox works but if it negated the need to remove radiators then it would be a option worth trying
 
Sorry, I should have asked before - does Fernox clean the whole system without having to remove the radiators, ie it is pumped in the system which is subsequently drained in the normal way?
 
Im guessing yous dont own a powerflush and justify that a mag clean is sufficient even though lots or carp isnt magnetic.
And just rely on normal flow from boiler even though it might be caked up.

Ill stick with doing a proper job
And properly clean & protect the customers investment
 
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Im guessing yous dont own a powerflush and justify that a mag clean is sufficient even though lots or carp isnt magnetic.

Ill stick with doing a proper job
And properly clean & protect the customers investment
Well you would be guessing wrong, I have had a PF unit for over 10 years, What I am saying is it's NOT a leagle requirement to PF a system, every system can-not be PF, so what would you do in that case ? not do the install because you cant PF it !
 
Yes, that is pretty much where I am at the moment, the boiler install seems to be straightforward, problems caused by the poweflush causing blockages / leaks, dealing with damaged valves due to radiator removal are the issues giving me a headache right now!
 
Im guessing yous dont own a powerflush and justify that a mag clean is sufficient even though lots or carp isnt magnetic.
And just rely on normal flow from boiler even though it might be caked up.

Ill stick with doing a proper job
And properly clean & protect the customers investment

How is a power flush going to do on a single pipe system, youll be done in 10 mins as the water will be clean but the rads wont be sludge free :)
 
OK, so does this mean that i need to speak to the manufacturers to get their take on what needs to happen with regard to the flushing of the system?
 
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