Discuss Please criticize my plan in the Central Heating Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

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I am new to the UK and just bought a house in Norwich. It has a vented cylinder and vented CH that is suffering from pretty severe corrosion, some of the rads are rusted through, so I would like to replace it with a sealed system. The rads are all plumbed in 10mm, so I would like to replace that too.

Here is a plan of what I would like install. Any (constructive) criticism of the design is most welcome. The control consists of an old school cylinder stat, thermostatic valves, and smart pumps.
Heating System Layout.jpg



I am also looking for a G3 around Norwich to install/commission/notify the cylinder. I will do all the messy stuff, lifting floorboards, getting all the pipes to the garage, hanging the expansion tank, providing power. If you can supply all the kit for a decent price, that would be great too, I have no access to local wholesale plumbing suppliers.

Finally, if anyone knows of a good deal on traditional cast iron rads and nice looking TRVs to match, please let me know. For example like this:
Traditional Victorian 4 Column 760mm Cast Iron Radiator - https://www.castironradiatorcentre.co.uk/products.asp?code=CDC-760&name=traditional-victorian-4-column-760mm-br-cast-iron-radiator
 
Without knowing the heating loads, I cannot comment as to how the system would perform. I would suggest that you look at the hot water side as to how that will perform in cold weather when the heating is at a high demand level.

Obviously the overall efficiency of the system is going to be lower than a more conventional set up.
 
Crazy set up, reinventing the wheel for no good reason.
A lot going on when an unvented cylinder would do the job or a thermal store. But would only recommend thermal store if you had multiple heat inputs.

Complexity for no good reason just means there is more to go wrong.

More expensive to run.

Also nobody will get materials at cost for you, as an example I charge cost plus 30% on all materials I supply.

Also I wouldn't want you to do any pipework, suppose it leaks? You paying for return visits whilst you put your work right?

But each to their own.
 
Crazy set up, reinventing the wheel for no good reason.
A lot going on when an unvented cylinder would do the job or a thermal store. But would only recommend thermal store if you had multiple heat inputs.

Complexity for no good reason just means there is more to go wrong.

More expensive to run.

Also nobody will get materials at cost for you, as an example I charge cost plus 30% on all materials I supply.

Also I wouldn't want you to do any pipework, suppose it leaks? You paying for return visits whilst you put your work right?

But each to their own.

Cost + 30% from someone with good connections to suppliers is going to be better than I can get retail, although online shopping is starting to change that a bit.

IMO, the only thing overly complex about the setup is the plate exchanger for DHW. I want to run the tank at a lower temperature than usual for a thermal store, say 60-65C, and I don't think there are tanks available with big enough coils to support that.

Please elaborate on why you think it would be more expensive to run. I don't see why it would be less efficient than a standard system, provided the tank is well insulated. In some scenarios it will likely be more efficient. Standard systems suffer because there is no buffer between the boiler and the rads. Modulation helps, but IMO this is a better, less complex solution.

If something I fit leaks and it were to stall commissioning or something like that, then yes, I would pay for a return visit.
 
Beware Norwich I understand has hard water, if I am correct you might well future proof the system.
For what they cost replace all the rads (diagram shows existing rads). centralheatking

I plan to install an ion exchange type water softener, the family is already complaining about their hair.

I had though to replace the rads and the piping over time as I renovate the house, room by room. But perhaps you are right, it might be better to do it all at once, so I don't mix the new with the old.
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Without knowing the heating loads, I cannot comment as to how the system would perform. I would suggest that you look at the hot water side as to how that will perform in cold weather when the heating is at a high demand level.

Obviously the overall efficiency of the system is going to be lower than a more conventional set up.

The current boiler seems big enough for the house now, although it has not been that cold yet. We are going to build an extension in a couple years time, so we'll likely have to replace it then. With this setup it should be possible to oversize it somewhat, for those times where there is heavy demand.

Care to elaborate why you think it would be less efficient?
 
You can calculate the theoretical efficiency of your system once you know all the loads and heat loss factors. Generally, to improve efficiency you minimise heat transfer and deliver the heat to point of use as soon as it is created. The concept of a thermal store is to store energy that you would otherwise loose. With a gas fired boiler (even on older one) you have extensive flexibility on control - so you only produce heat when you need it and immediately deliver it to where you need it. To produce heat from a gas fired boiler to store (in a small domestic situation) is just odd.

As a starting point for your proposed system, you will use just under 20kw to heat your store / buffer to 65 degrees ( assuming a 10 degree inflow temperature). Thereafter, around an hour, your system will start to perform as you have designed it.

With respect to the plate heat exchanger for DHW you would normally configure it to take the primary flow from the heat source and the secondary to the buffer vessel. You also don’t normally specify them in Kw. You establish the required flow rate, determine your maximum flow, duration of max flow and your input flow and return temperature requirements. That then determines the gross output of the exchanger against the specific flow criteria. The flow criteria for a heat exchanger to work is absolutely key.

To give you an order of magnitude, in very simple terms, a 35kw gas fired combi uses a 30 to 40kw exchanger (configured to the boiler flow criteria) to deliver DHW. At best, your proposed system is starting with less than 20kw of energy to input into the exchanger, with a falling flow temperature.

Sometimes, when you get a really good idea it is useful to ask yourself why other people are not doing it. I don’t mean that to be rude,
but it is a useful exercise to draw you back to reality.

I don’t want to be Dr Doom and spoil your fun in developing such a system, but a new gas fired combi will be a lot more efficient, probably cheaper to instal and give you a consistent flow of hot water.
 
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Ion exchange was a magic fix but is a temporary water fix at best, the naughty crystals reform very quickly. The only proper fix is a water softener which must also treat the water that is introduced to the ch system otherwise its bye bye heat exchangers sooner rather than later.
Boiler..do a proper heat requirement calculation inc. extension and new rads get a suitable sized boiler
for that and water storage that will cope with all your peak demands at periods of high area demand
...am before school run, pm 17.00..19.00 AND during summer when pressure is low due to over demand. centralheatking
 
More expensive based on a higher tank temp to maintain.

Cant see how a tank temp of 60 to 65 will deliver satisfactory dhw performance.

This is the reason for the 100kW plate exchanger, rather than an internal coil, which will allow the tank to run at a lower temperature.

But you are correct in that one would expect tank losses to be bigger, because the tank is bigger than an unvented would be. For the tank, exchanger, and piping losses, I am planning to insulate them well to reduce this, and to upgrade the insulation in the house in general.

With my current boiler it will very likely cost less to run, as it will stop the boiler cycling in the period after the rads warm up, but before the room thermostat cuts out.
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You can calculate the theoretical efficiency of your system once you know all the loads and heat loss factors. Generally, to improve efficiency you minimise heat transfer and deliver the heat to point of use as soon as it is created. The concept of a thermal store is to store energy that you would otherwise loose. With a gas fired boiler (even on older one) you have extensive flexibility on control - so you only produce heat when you need it and immediately deliver it to where you need it. To produce heat from a gas fired boiler to store (in a small domestic situation) is just odd.

By this logic we should use instantaneous gas waters heaters all round, for example combis. The flaw there is that they don't cope well with variable demand, and any efficiency gained from reducing tank losses is often lost. I would bet in a real world situation, unventeds are more efficient than combi's for this reason, unless they have a decent sized tank, and then they become an unvented. Think how many times you turn the hot tap on and off when you are cooking.

As a starting point for your proposed system, you will use just under 20kw to heat your store / buffer to 65 degrees ( assuming a 10 degree inflow temperature). Thereafter, around an hour, your system will start to perform as you have designed it.

With respect to the plate heat exchanger for DHW you would normally configure it to take the primary flow from the heat source and the secondary to the buffer vessel. You also don’t normally specify them in Kw. You establish the required flow rate, determine your maximum flow, duration of max flow and your input flow and return temperature requirements. That then determines the gross output of the exchanger against the specific flow criteria. The flow criteria for a heat exchanger to work is absolutely key.

To give you an order of magnitude, in very simple terms, a 35kw gas fired combi uses a 30 to 40kw exchanger (configured to the boiler flow criteria) to deliver DHW. At best, your proposed system is starting with less than 20kw of energy to input into the exchanger, with a falling flow temperature.
All plate exchangers I have seen are rated in kW, and that is for a 40C delta. In this case it will be more like 15C, so I calculated how many watts to heat water from 5C-45C based on 12 litres/minute flow, multiplied by 3, and padded it a little for insurance. Do you think I have made a mistake, and 100kW is too small?

Sometimes, when you get a really good idea it is useful to ask yourself why other people are not doing it. I don’t mean that to be rude,
but it is a useful exercise to draw you back to reality.
I believe this is one of the standard ways to set up a thermal store, aside from the balancing valve and smart pump instead of a flow switch, that is indeed an experiment.

I don’t want to be Dr Doom and spoil your fun in developing such a system, but a new gas fired combi will be a lot more efficient, probably cheaper to install and give you a consistent flow of hot water.
No worries, I asked for criticism. I have space for a cylinder, so I am not limited to a combi, although it most certainly would be cheaper.

I did install the exact same system in a previous house, except it used an internal coil for DHW rather than a plate exchanger. Until you have lived in a house with a buffered heating system it is hard to understand the comfort you are missing. No cycling of room or radiator temperatures when the thermostat cuts in an out, heat always there, much easier to control individual room temperature, no boiler cycling, etc. It is very pleasant.
 
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A 300litre tank at 60 degrees with 40mm of PUR insulation will loose 7 degrees in 24 hours at 20 degrees ambient. That is around 2.4kwhr. There are more sophisticated ways of determining the actual loss. For heat pumps, I work on a rule of thumb for a 40mm insulated DHW tank in regular daily use @ 20 degree ambient is that 10% of the energy stored is lost. Your losses will be higher (if you store at 65 degrees) - unless of course you increase the tank insulation further.
 
This is the reason for the 100kW plate exchanger, rather than an internal coil, which will allow the tank to run at a lower temperature.

But you are correct in that one would expect tank losses to be bigger, because the tank is bigger than an unvented would be. For the tank, exchanger, and piping losses, I am planning to insulate them well to reduce this, and to upgrade the insulation in the house in general.

With my current boiler it will very likely cost less to run, as it will stop the boiler cycling in the period after the rads warm up, but before the room thermostat cuts out.
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By this logic we should use instantaneous gas waters heaters all round, for example combis. The flaw there is that they don't cope well with variable demand, and any efficiency gained from reducing tank losses is often lost. I would bet in a real world situation, unventeds are more efficient than combi's for this reason, unless they have a decent sized tank, and then they become an unvented. Think how many times you turn the hot tap on and off when you are cooking.


All plate exchangers I have seen are rated in kW, and that is for a 40C delta. In this case it will be more like 15C, so I calculated how many watts to heat water from 5C-45C based on 12 litres/minute flow, multiplied by 3, and padded it a little for insurance. Do you think I have made a mistake, and 100kW is too small?


I believe this is one of the standard ways to set up a thermal store, aside from the balancing valve and smart pump instead of a flow switch, that is indeed an experiment.


No worries, I asked for criticism. I have space for a cylinder, so I am not limited to a combi, although it most certainly would be cheaper.

I did install the exact same system in a previous house, except it used an internal coil for DHW rather than a plate exchanger. Until you have lived in a house with a buffered heating system it is hard to understand the comfort you are missing. No cycling of room or radiator temperatures when the thermostat cuts in an out, heat always there, much easier to control individual room temperature, no boiler cycling, etc. It is very pleasant.
i had the same in my last house with a viessmann 200 combi with weather compensation comfort levels perfect and good hot water
 
I can see this system working ...my previous comments re hard water and supply still stand...however its a bit like the heating systems in Hotels and Nursing Homes which we have been involved in for many years.
In fact a few sacraficial hex is cheap compared to a replacement boiler was why we wacked them in.
One system was the largest nursing home in Europe...the Wills one on the Downs outside of Brisol near the M5 but the hot water circuit was 2/3 inch galv ...chking
 
Heat exchanger performance:

In simple terms

From the boiler output you have feeding a 300 litre store at 65 degrees C - a 5 minute shower at 40 degrees and 15 lpm will demand a input into the exchanger of around 42kw/hr. That assumes that the exchanger has an efficiency of 80% ( which is high). The primary flow would be around 30 lpm, assuming that the store is fully charged.
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Just for clarity, an exchanger is generally sized from The primary to The secondary ( in your case 65 degrees to 40 degrees). So if your target temperature is 40 degrees, that would be the balance point. So from your store, the maximum gross amount of energy that is available to be released to create dhw at 40 degrees is around 7kw net. However, to heat the store from 10 degrees to 65 degrees, you have used circa 20kw.
 
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Heat exchanger performance:

In simple terms

From the boiler output you have feeding a 300 litre store at 65 degrees C - a 5 minute shower at 40 degrees and 15 lpm will demand a input into the exchanger of around 42kw/hr. That assumes that the exchanger has an efficiency of 80% ( which is high). The primary flow would be around 30 lpm, assuming that the store is fully charged.
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Just for clarity, an exchanger is generally sized from The primary to The secondary ( in your case 65 degrees to 40 degrees). So if your target temperature is 40 degrees, that would be the balance point. So from your store, the maximum gross amount of energy that is available to be released to create dhw at 40 degrees is around 7kw net. However, to heat the store from 10 degrees to 65 degrees, you have used circa 20kw.

I calculated this as follows. Energy required to heat water is 70 watt-minutes / litre / degree. Ie. it takes a 70W heat source 1 minute to heat a litre of water 1 degree C. 12l/min from 10C to 45C gives 70 * 12 * 35 = 29.4kW, which makes sense since a 6l/minute electric shower is around 11kW.

Now triple and add a bit extra and you are at 100kW.

How large an exchanger do you think is required?
 

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