Pipe Capping? After Permanently Removing Radiator

[Cinobite]

Good day to you all!

I'm considering permanently removing the radiator from my landing as it's a narrow passage and would open the space up.

I'm happy taking the radiator out and the process of draining the radiator. However, after watching some videos on youtube, I have a few questions.

My heaters have flexi piping - which is great (I'll be replacing some with towel rails also)

Some videos I have seen say do not join the loose pipes as this creates a constant loop that wastes energy and heat. The radiator in question is on the landing about 2 meters from the boiler/tank airing cupboard - would this really be an issue?

Secondly, some videos suggest that you should trace the piping all the way back to the junction by ripping up carpet and floorboards, cut and cap off the ends at the junctions. Whilst this makes sense, it seems like it might be an excessive amount of work for little benefit.

And lastly, they suggest draining the entire heating system. I'm wondering, as it's using flexi pipe, would it be acceptable to clamp the pipes tight, stopping any fluid, while capping the ends at the radiator point?

Although I will be plastering over the hole, the hole contains a socket like housing that I would like to leave the pipe ends in so that - if the need ever arises - a radiator can be put back on.

In my head, I see no problem with this:
Drain radiator and remove.
Push pipe ends into housing if they fit, if not, clamp and cap.
Plaster over hole.



For your information here is a picture of the radiator in question.
Followed by another radiator (which will remain) in the downstairs toilet. I've included it as this one has bends attached.

Thanks!

Radiator to be removed


Other Radiator staying

 

[oz-plumber]

Sound like you've got it covered.

 

[Cinobite]

Thanks, does that make sense then?

I wasn't sure if leaving the pipes in the wall would be a problem of some kind?

I assume as it's just a radiator I don't need to file for any regulatory paperwork etc?

 

[LaMont5way]

Ideally you want to remove the tees to the radiator or cap off at manifold. But the best option would be to cap the ends of the pipes and push inside the wall. This may not be possible though and cutting the pipes might be the only option. Materials required: 2x metal pipe inserts, 2x hep cap ends(the size should be 10 or 12mm should be written on pipe.

 

[Cinobite]

Thanks for the advice!

What would be the best way to patch the hole?
I'm watching videos but they are all shallow holes with filler so far

I'm thinking bag the end (with labels/a note), then use a mesh patch over the hole and apply the plaster/filler. It would leave a weak spot but would keep the pipe ends and housing relatively clean and reusable

 

[LaMont5way]

Thanks for the advice!

What would be the best way to patch the hole?
I'm watching videos but they are all shallow holes with filler so far

I'm thinking bag the end (with labels/a note), then use a mesh patch over the hole and apply the plaster/filler. It would leave a weak spot but would keep the pipe ends and housing relatively clean and reusable

Probably best to ask a plasterer that one. But, from an engineers prospective fill with blue role and instant cement.

 

[SimonG]

Single gang cover plate.

 

[plumben]

+1 for the single gang socket blank, no need to plaster just a white plate over the whole, and fill the screw holes with Polly filler and paint over.

I wouldn't squeeze the pipes to cap, just drain down and refill upon completion, no mess if it goes wrong then,

Also add Inhibitor into the system via radiator or towel rail once all works do e before filling back up

MK 1-Gang Blank Plate White | Switches & Sockets | NoLinkingToThis

 

[gassafe]

Ideally you want to remove the tees to the radiator or cap off at manifold. But the best option would be to cap the ends of the pipes and push inside the wall. This may not be possible though and cutting the pipes might be the only option. Materials required: 2x metal pipe inserts, 2x hep cap ends(the size should be 10 or 12mm should be written on pipe.

Or John guest

 

[Cinobite]

Would I need an inhibitor if the pipes are flexi? Or are they only flexi pipes from the main junction?

 

[paulusgg]

Would I need an inhibitor if the pipes are flexi? Or are they only flexi pipes from the main junction?

You would need to maintain the concentration of inhibitor even though the pipework is plastic as there are metal components within the system, i.e. rads and heat exchanger in boiler etc.

 

[jaydebruyne]

The hole looks bigger than a socket cover plate. Easiest way to fix a hole in plasterboard is to get a spare piece of plasterboard and stick it to the back using strong adhesive - you'll need to drill a hole in the spare piece to thread some string through it to pull it against the back of the hole - once this has set, fill the gap with a piece of plasterboard roughly the same size and fill with gaps with filler. Don't try to fill the entire section with filler as it'll just drop before it cures.

 

[Jimbobber]

The hole looks bigger than a socket cover plate. Easiest way to fix a hole in plasterboard is to get a spare piece of plasterboard and stick it to the back using strong adhesive - you'll need to drill a hole in the spare piece to thread some string through it to pull it against the back of the hole - once this has set, fill the gap with a piece of plasterboard roughly the same size and fill with gaps with filler. Don't try to fill the entire section with filler as it'll just drop before it cures.

Surely the easiest way is to just cleat the back of the hole with wood/screws and then screw the new piece to that.

 

[jaydebruyne]

Surely the easiest way is to just cleat the back of the hole with wood/screws and then screw the new piece to that.

Or that, yeah...