Discuss Leaking hot water cylinder pipe in the Central Heating Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

PS What you said about the boiler firing when running bath. It wouldn't be firing if I am having a bath when boiler is off. Maybe the solution for that problem is to make sure I heat the water via the boiler when running the bath?
 
What did you mean when you said, "and, if on a long run..."
Sorry! 'On a long pipe run'. I.e. the longer the length (the straight run) of pipe, the more significant the expansion.

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Isn't that an immersion heater? Does it have a wire connected to it? And are you sure it isn't leaking from there and running down? Unlikely but worth a quick look.

You stated, "Maybe the solution for that problem is to make sure I heat the water via the boiler when running the bath?". I can't see what harm it would do to try.

Basically an airlock can result if the pipework is not well designed. Once the pipe is empty, it fills with air and the water pressure is insufficient to clear the air. It shouldn't happen at all, but plumbing mistakes are often found and plumbers are used to the tricks required to get things flowing again. The risk is no hot water when you re-open the red valve due to air blocking the pipework. Not damaging or dangerous, but annoying.

It is also possible that the valve may not reopen when you want it to, especially if you turn it off too hard. Often the valves used for this sort of application are gate valves. Good gate valves work well, but many are built to a low price and the quality suffers a lot (send us a photo?) You may be fine, but it's only fair to warn you.
 
Well, here I am, back again after 6 months. I am still in the same situation, (as in, I am still shielding, due to not being vaccinated and still have the leak in the cylinder). I got used to checking the drip tray I bought and emptying it regularly over the winter.

Over the summer and the warmer weather, I noticed the leak would slow right down when the boiler wasn't being used for long periods. So, I stopped using the boiler and just heated the water once a week, to keep the boiler in working order. I then started leaving it off for longer and running it once every 2 or 3 weeks.

Then one day, I noticed the pilot light had gone out, (it is a very old Vulcan Continental boiler from the 1970's). I looked up the instructions how to light it manually and was able to light it but it wouldn't stay lit. Every time I let go of the valve, the pilot light went out again.

I read the most common problem is a faulty thermocouple.

I have been in touch with a gas registered plumber and he could come and have a look for me (at both the boiler and the hot water cylinder) but I am still so nervous of catching the virus, especially, now we have the more contagious Delta variant.

Today, I tried to light it again and checked whether the flame was properly pointing towards the thermocouple metal end, as I had seen in videos online. I noticed the flame doesn't surround the thermocouple. The flame bends towards it at the bottom of the flame but the rest of the flame points upwards (ie vertically). It is very close to the thermocouple but more beside it, rather than surrounding it.

After the pilot light had gone out again, I touched the thermocouple end to see if it felt very hot and it did, so it is heating up but do you think it is heating up enough?

I don't see why the angle of the flame would have changed, as the boiler hasn't been touched inside for ages and the pilot light always stayed on before, so I don't see why it would suddenly be a problem.

When I have watched videos of lighting pilot lights, it looks like there is more than one flame? When I light it, there is just one flame. As I said, it bends a little at the bottom towards the thermocouple and the rest of the flame is vertical and is beside the thermocouple. The pilot light tube is angled towards the thermocouple but the flame doesn't engulf/surround the thermocouple metal tip bit.

Any ideas? I have seen the other possible problems in the videos but I don't want to touch anything else myself (eg cleaning the thermocouple tip, or the pilot light tube, or replacing the thermocouple with a new one).

Why would the pilot light suddenly go out when I stopped using the boiler for 2 or 3 weeks? It never usually goes out.

I have some pictures of the boiler I took a while ago but didn't take any of the pilot light chamber. I can try and do that another day if you need to see. Might be difficult to get a good photo of it, as it is right at the bottom, near the floor. I will attach the pictures I do have but I don't expect them to be of much use. You might enjoy seeing an 'antique' boiler though!

Thanks guys.

PS Sorry I didn't reply to your question back in February about the immersion heater you pointed out in the picture of the hot water cylinder Ric2013. There is no wire connected to it. I didn't even know it was an immersion heater, until you pointed it out. It has never been connected as far as I know.
 

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Sorry to say the virus is going to be around forever so we all just have to get back to normal safely

I would book him in and just be mindful of keeping 2m and wiping down after etc
 
Sorry to say the virus is going to be around forever so we all just have to get back to normal safely

I would book him in and just be mindful of keeping 2m and wiping down after etc
I know but as I said, I am not vaccinated, due to my illness, so I am vulnerable. I am hoping there might be a different type of vaccination or treatment in the future.
 
I understand your predicament but I can’t see anything short term eg 1-2 years 5-10 maybe
 
I'm old enough to know that's not a vulcan continental! Even older either a viceroy or a autostat first gas boiler I ever fitted as an apprentice.
That's interesting. Thanks! Don't know how I thought I knew it was a Vulcan Continental. Unless I have seen it somewhere on the boiler. Were the 2 you mention Vulcan's, as it's definitely a Vulcan. It's on the door of the boiler and the label inside (which you can see in the last pic I posted).
 
Definitely a vulcan (factory still there stelrad rads made there now) the continental was physical smaller with a different control panel thermostat knob set in a panel at 45 degrees
 

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