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johnbeard

Hi, I'm a newbie and looking for some advice.

The condensate pipe on our Ideal Isar HE24 keeps freezing, so the boiler stops working (displaying the L:F error code) - when it first happened two days ago I rang our usual heating engineer who, unsurprisingly, said it might take a day or two for him to get out, but he suggested it was probably the external condensate pipe and to try pouring hot water on it. That worked, then it froze up again yesterday, so I did the same again - which worked again. I assume this is going to keep happening until the weather warms up, so I'm looking for a short term alternative solution, as the boiler is at first floor level, so I keep having to go up an icy ladder and pour water from a flask, which I'm not particularly enjoying and is terrifying my wife!

The condensate pipe is 35mm on the outside, and 22mm on the inside. The external pipe isn't insulated, and I'm struggling to find any big enough insulation/lagging at B&Q (I can find better stuff online, but it will obviously not come until the new year if I order it now).

Having looked at other forums, some people suggest cutting the internal condensate pipe and draining it to a bucket, but on one forum someone said that option wasn't appropriate for Ideal Isar boilers as it would lead to flue gases leaking out (I'm spectacularly non-techie, as you can probably tell).

Any other ideas? I'm thinking about buying some heat pads and strapping them to the outside pipe, but whether that will have much effect I don't know.

Any suggestions gratefully received, thanks.
 
as a short term measure why not pour boiling water down the 22mm internal pipe, it might get through to the ice and melt it, got to be better than going up a ladder in this weather, be careful as it will back up when it hits the ice, on the isar it is ok to terminate into a bucket as the boiler has a trap inside (some who works on these day to day will advise whether i am right in this !!!!!!)
 
Do as kirk suggested a these boilers do have condensate traps fit and there should be no risk of flue products entering the house.

On another note just be glad that this is the problem you have because I have a list as long as my arm of faults that can go wrong on your boiler
 
Thanks both kirk and quality for this advice, much appreciated. I have just been back up the ladder with more hot water and a heat pad, which I've tied to the pipe. We'll see what effect that has.

Next step will be to do as you suggest and open up the internal pipe. I'm not particularly relishing this prospect, I don't have a great track record at any form of DIY. I have now downloaded a copy of the full manual, including servicing guidelines, so will give it a go. I assume I need to do this by going into 'service mode', i.e. opening up the front of the boiler and lowering the control box, then disconnecting the condensate pipe from the boiler?

Another question - I've read somewhere else that running the boiler continuously, and turning the boiler thermostat (for heating and/or water, presumably?) to full will help avoid the problem recurring for the moment. Does that sound sensible?

Thanks again.

John
 
Another question - I've read somewhere else that running the boiler continuously, and turning the boiler thermostat (for heating and/or water, presumably?) to full will help avoid the problem recurring for the moment. Does that sound sensible?



John

I'm not a plumber and possibly even worse at DIY but, I tried as suggested and it didn't work!
 
Thanks Susie, I suspected that might be the case!

Looks like I'll have to have a go at the internal pipe, then. Wish me luck!!
 
the more the boiler is on the more it will condense, therefore keeping the boiler on would make the situation worse not better
 
If you are cutting your condense pipe internally, I would also make sure you have a carbon monoxide alarm.

Some boilers such as the isar and icos do have small traps, and a real potential of flue gases entering the property.
 
Hi, i've been having the similar problem,but also on mine the condensation trap is leaking from the drain plug valve,its only a plastic screw(red) at the bottom of the trap, any idea where i can get one from? I've tryed a few plumbing merchants,but no one as it.It's worn an cracked so is dripping. Thanks.
 
does the 32mm pipe on the outside go all the way through the wall in 32mm or is it reduced to 22mm on the elbow and go through the wall in say a 25mm hole? has the 32mm pipe got enough fall on it and what does it terminate into?
 
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