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Discuss hep2O piping to rads advice in the DIY Plumbing Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi All

I'm planning on replacing a couple of rads soon as they are far too small for the size of the room causing the room to take an age to heat up but they are all connected via what I assume is Hep2O nothing is labled on the pipes that route behind the rad just on the flap behind the rad.

Is anyone aware of any guides for using this which is apparently the standard these days on newbuilds, it looks pretty straightforward push fit but before I drain down the system and start removing things i wouldn't mind getting a bit of how to, I can do copper but never used this stuff.

Also is there any compatibility concerns if I were to use another brand such as inserts etc the reason being I will only need to replace one length of pipe on one rad that i'll be doubling the width of and for what I believe is 10mm pipe the shortest length i can find is 25M and it's not cheap.

many thanks
 
Ideally you need to identify existing tube so you can use correct insert.
It is marked every mtr by manufacturer so you might get lucky.
Most site new build will probably be wavin (hep) John Guest (speed fit)
Or polypipe.
But just because you see say hep fittings that's no guarantee it's hep tube.
We did several large sites where speed fit fittings were specified but tube and inserts polypipe.
 
Hi Nwalky

I have attached pics of the connection to the valve if that helps, one of my issues is there isn't enough slack on the rads to lay them down to follow the pipe to look for any kind of labeling and I can't see anything by crawling underneath.

On a side note does anyone know what kind of key I can use for the rad drain off, it's a pegler model and their support have come back to me and said it's a common issue because most rad keys are tapered making the connnection too shallow to grip but they can't actually point me at somewhere where I can get one and I have now tried several.

It's not the end of the world as I could drain down from a valve but wouldn't mind using the rad drain off on the larger ones to make them a bit lighter as a few i will be taking outside to hose out.
20231112_131638_resized.jpg
20231112_131647_resized.jpg
 
File or hacksaw end of a key to make it flat brass keys are better.
Though we would just turn valves off and put a container under valve and loosen nut on rad tail.
Unfortunately pic don't show enough pipe to Identify it.
With luck with rad out of way you may find writing on pipe.
 
Depending on what size/type your existing rad is and how much more heat you want, could you get a bigger rad but the same length, ie K2 or K3 or a higher size? That way you don't need to change/extend the pipework.
 

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