Floor tiling?

[CarlH]

Got a few bathrooms lined up to do but have a slight worry as one wants me to to tile aswell... Not worried about wall tiles as I've done this many times and feel I'm more than competant doing it, but what I'm worried about is tiling the floor? Never done it before and what I want to know is how do you start? Can you just tile on top of the floor boards? Surely you'd have to have a better surface than that to tile on?? Any help will be appreaciated.

 

[johnmcginty]

Ply it 9mm or 12 mm first screw down every 30 cm , prime it , then work out your bond as usual , draw round tiles with marker , cut them and dry lay first then use flexible rapid set , avoid pre mixed unless a good make like mapei. Use a 20 mm notched trowel to acheive 100 % coverage as when the misses uses stilletoes it will crack the corners. Masking tape round the skirting boards and use a good grout sponge , remove mask wait for it to dry over night just to be sure and grout, silicone round edges. I have not plyed on rare occasions when the room was a cloakroom size and good solid floor otherwise ply it. Remove all excess nails and screw down boards too. Oh and flexi grout too.

 

[ddplumbing]

only one addition to the excellent advice above: Screw the ply down every 6 to 8 inches

 

[CarlH]

Thanks guys, advice appreciated!

 

[stevetheplumber]

if you can wall tile floors are a doddle as gravity is on your side

 

[dontknowitall]

One helpful addition to above (it only takes about 15 minutes from starting to laying to cleaning up) is a layer of self leveling compound after laying the ply as it makes more of an even surface and you don't need to use as much tile cement. Then leave overnight to dry.

Also uneven floor tiles are much more noticeable than uneven wall tiles. Using a spirit level constantly helps.

(There's also the TilersForum if you want more tips.)

 

[TheRealRobG]

Yes, lay 12-18mm ply and watch you don't stick a screw through any underfloor pipes or cables which may be lurking just under the floor. I've done that to my cost. After the ply, measure the floor for plumb and high spots and lay a 6-10mm depth of flex self levelling compound. The Wickes high performance master stuff is perfect. Then prime it with a proper tile primer (not PVA) and tiling will be a doddle. You want as little flex as possible in the floor or the grout joints will crack in no time.

 

[Plumbstar Tom]

Why not check out our sister Forum 'Tilers Forum?

TilersForums.co.uk | Tile Forums | Tiling Forum

 

[NickH]

I prefer to use 6mm No More Ply (cement based board) instead of ply, less increase in height. As stated, screw down existing boards securely, you should lift some of the boards so that you can check where any pipes and cables are, take time to do this carefully or you will live to regret it, dont assume anything ( assumption = mother of all f**k ups ).
Cement board is then bedded on a thin layer of flexible rapidset and screwed down. Let it set and then prime with SBR primer. I personally tile with flexible standard set adhesive as the rapid can be a bit too quick if its a fiddly floor, ( which most bathrooms are ). Grout with a flexible grout or you will get cracks.
Having said all of that, some floors aren't really suitable for tiling, mainly due to excess movement so dont assume it can be tiled until you've given it the once over. As previously said theres lots of advice to be had on the tilers forum.

 

[Bernie2]

Get yourself a drywall screwdriver they are great for all the screwing required. You can then use it for plaster boards and loads of other things. The drill with a screwdriver bit goes right through most things if you don't watch them all the time. On a drywall drill you can set the depth and it cuts out when the screw reaches the required depth. I would go for a TEK driver if I were you, more torque and can be used on metal sheet self tappers as well.