Discuss Flexi hoses in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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If you are using them check that the are at least WRAS approved, also I would use the fuller bore ones and replace that restrictive isolation valve.

TBH the tap connector seems to restrict the flow to such an extent that the isolation valve prob makes little difference!
 
BTW there must be tends of thousands of hosues fitted with these by now - surely if they wre a MAJOR problem it would be more well publicised?

They are a major problem, I went to one last week on a toilet, luckily the home owner was just getting up for work and heard water start running to find a waterfall going down the stairs from the bathroom,

Trust us where plumbers and fix these problems all the time
 
My opinion, for what its worth.

A good quality flexi, properly fitted, without undue twisting or tension is a pretty minor risk. Sure, its not as good as rigid copper tails, but we all have to make compromises in life. Mrs S reckons I am not as good looking as George Clooney, although personally, I claim its a close race.

A poor quality flexi, or one that has not been fitted properly, or is twisted, tensioned or generally abused is an invitation to an impromptu communal shower.
 
I will convert to rigid

I can prob get hold of a pipe bender - does anyone have advice on how to do it?

I will put a compression tap connector on the end of a pipe.

the issue is how to get the length perfect so i can still thread the tap on but also get back to my supply pipe.
 
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You are probably not capable of bending a proper offset.
But here is how you do it - hand tighten a tap connector onto tap, (I prefer 22mm soldered tap connector). Use a straight piece of 22mm copper about 400mm approx to push into the tap connector. That will give you a back to back measurement you need to bend to the incoming pipe. Bend it, then try it into the tap connector, swiveling it to one side of pipe it is to join to & mark to cut it.
Why are you using isolating valves below the bath?
 
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I put the isolation valves there so that water could be turned off if I needed to do any further work

If I do get rid of the flexi they will come in handy as I will add the new copper pipe after the islaiton valves......
 
Usually the isolating valves are never needed and can seize up or leak if not decent quality IMO.
Not needed I believe.
If the pipes are fairly close to the taps, I bend offset bends and job done.
But if the pipes are to one side - like to the front of bath, then job is even easier if you just use elbows. You could try using soldered tap connectors & soldered elbows soldered out of place and then fit them in place, cutting all pipes exactly with a pipe slice to suit brass elbows.
That way they can be removed at any time by just loosening a nut on either side of each pipe
 
From the second pic, I can see you have used jointing compound.
This is good. :D
However, you have used it on the thread where the compression nut screws up.
This is bad. :(

You just need a smear on the olive where it goes into the fitting, anywhere else is wasting it and depending on the compound, could make undoing the nut more difficult in years to come.
The seal of an olive based fitting is made by the fitting crushing the olive tight between the pipe and the tapered socket of the valve so that water can not pass, the seal can't be improved past that.

But, for a DIY job, you can be proud! Plumbers wouldn't do it the way you did, but we do this day in and day out.
The flexies you have fitted look spot on to be honest, no twisting or kinking.
Well done :)
If it's holding water and you have access to check it every so often, it'll be reyt - as we say in sunny Bolton.
 
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