Bathroom Renovation

[blawford]

I am currently undertaking a downstairs bathroom renovation and I am at the point where the room is gutted of the old suite, flooring (just the concrete floor remains) and the plaster of 1 wall. The wall where I have removed the plaster I have affixed stud-work to, in order box things out 40mm or so to hide the sink waste and pipes.

I am a bit unsure as to what to do next, mainly around the proper order and procedure to do with fitting of pipework for the sink. There will eventually be plasterboard fitted over the stud-work and tiles on top of that so I assume I need to put pipes in place next but I am bit unsure of the best way to proceed.

My guess would be:

Pipework is currently at skirting board height, so I run the pipes up the wall to the height I need them, horizontally from there and then cut slots in the plasterboard to put the pipework through as I lift and fit it onto the wall? After that tile the wall around the pipe and measure and drill a hole for the pipe in the tiles they come through, after that is all in place fit an elbow and small section of pipe vertically to go onto the tap, probably with an in-line isolation valve?

 

[PlumbBobBob]

sounds about right to me, although I would test the pipework before boarding it

 

[Best]

Don't forget to put timber in for any screws for cistern, basin and bathroom accessories

 

[blawford]

Don't forget to put timber in for any screws for cistern, basin and bathroom accessories

I did think of that at one point but I probably would have forgotten when I came to actually doing it, thanks for reminding me.

 

[itcanbesoeasy]

Thats fine as long as you realise there will be no access afterwards,dripping pipe, leaking wc connector,blocked wastpipe, now where's my lump hammer,getting a dab hand at demolition

 

[blawford]

Thats fine as long as you realise there will be no access afterwards,dripping pipe, leaking wc connector,blocked wastpipe, now where's my lump hammer,getting a dab hand at demolition

Haha, I have a bit of experience with that! http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/plumbing-forum/88476-moving-earthenware-waste-concrete.html

 

[blawford]

With the floor not having gone in yet, I guess I should add a bit to any vertical measurements I take? Is there a standard practice?

 

[Best]

With the floor not having gone in yet, I guess I should add a bit to any vertical measurements I take? Is there a standard practice?

Usually I would take a level point from where the floor will finish at the bathroom door. (where it I assume is to meet the floor outside the bathroom?)
If ceiling was fairly level you could then measure down for approximate distances if not needing to work too precise. You could have a line around bathroom say, 1 metre from what us to be new floor level and then you measure down less what your intended heights are, if you know what I mean.
Remember to also allow for thickness of tiles or whatever finish is going on floor
A laser level putting a laser line around bathroom would be handy, but I guess you don't have one.
Do double and triple check all your measurements.

 

[blawford]

sounds about right to me, although I would test the pipework before boarding it

Only put a single section of pipe behind the plasterboard with no joins, so should be fine.

 

[blawford]

OK, next question.

When I took out the original suite I cut off the pipes where they came into the room and put pushfit stop ends on them. Although this seemed like an OK idea at the time I now realise I have no way of draining the water from the pipes without getting water everywhere, as there is no longer a tap to run once the water is turned off. This is compounded by the fact that they come in about an inch away from the floor and bend upwards, and are cut off about 10" on the vertical run, so there is no way to get a bucket under them that I can think of.

Any ideas? I could probably put another pushfit fitting on them quickly without making too much of a mess, but I would rather clean the pipe and do it properly considering it is going to be there a while.

 

[itcanbesoeasy]

I would take them off quickly and quickly put two pushfit isolation valves on,

 

[oz-plumber]

I would just let it drain on the floor

 

[Radioman]

OK, next question.

When I took out the original suite I cut off the pipes where they came into the room and put pushfit stop ends on them. Although this seemed like an OK idea at the time I now realise I have no way of draining the water from the pipes without getting water everywhere, as there is no longer a tap to run once the water is turned off. This is compounded by the fact that they come in about an inch away from the floor and bend upwards, and are cut off about 10" on the vertical run, so there is no way to get a bucket under them that I can think of.

Any ideas? I could probably put another pushfit fitting on them quickly without making too much of a mess, but I would rather clean the pipe and do it properly considering it is going to be there a while.

Get hold of a heavy duty rubble sack, roll the top down, push under the offending pipe to catch the water, get push fit valve to hand with valve in the open position, pop off stop end pop on valve, turn valve off. Having the valve open means it will push on real easy. Top tip, a smear of silicone grease or Vaseline will prevent the o ring getting damaged, always use a pipe cutter if you plan to use push fit. Don't forget to put iso valves on your outlets. Don't use plasterboard around the bath as its not water proof. Use aqua panel , no more ply, or similar.

 

[blawford]

Get hold of a heavy duty rubble sack, roll the top down, push under the offending pipe to catch the water, get push fit valve to hand with valve in the open position, pop off stop end pop on valve, turn valve off. Having the valve open means it will push on real easy. Top tip, a smear of silicone grease or Vaseline will prevent the o ring getting damaged, always use a pipe cutter if you plan to use push fit. Don't forget to put iso valves on your outlets. Don't use plasterboard around the bath as its not water proof. Use aqua panel , no more ply, or similar.

Good tips, thank you.

 

[PhoenixServices]

Or buy a wetvac from screwfix for £30. Isolate the pipework drain as much as you can via other taps. Then take the caps off one at a time hoovering up the water. Have a few towels ready. If the Hoover fills up just put the cap back on empty and repeat.

 

[Masood]

Or buy a wetvac from screwfix for £30. Isolate the pipework drain as much as you can via other taps. Then take the caps off one at a time hoovering up the water. Have a few towels ready. If the Hoover fills up just put the cap back on empty and repeat.

By far the easiest method. And the wetvac can be used again and again. It's a good investment.