Alkathene Pipe? Remove!

[diynot]

Hi all,

I am in the process of having a kitchen revamp.

It's a Galley Kitchen (see plan), Washer Dryer Would be in the left hand corner, followed by the inset sink (left hand drainer), then the Dishwasher followed by a Gas hob. This set up would afford me lots of counter top space (750mm) between the hob and the sink.

But unfortunately the Mains Water supply (Black Alkathene) is where I planned to put the Dishwasher.

The alternative set up is Washer Dryer, Followed by Dishwasher and then the sink, this leaves me about 300mm counter top.

Is there anything that can be done about the Alkathene, Can the water board do anything? or am i going to have to have to compromise and live with it? or do you have any other suggestions which I may not have yet considered.

Thanks

 

[Killy Bing]

Tis after the water meter so your responsibility?

you could have a new larger main as youre having work down now, good if you want to go to an unvented system

Gun it out, move it, dig it up outside and joint it there and bring it in somewhere else?

whats the size of it?

 

[ADM360]

I don't think the water board will get involved as it is your pipe! can your plumber not move it for you? take up the floor and either extend or shorten it to put it somewhere else?

 

[diynot]

I believe 3/4 of an inch.

Digging out sounds like a big job.

Thought Water Board might assist. But obviously not.

 

[Killy Bing]

Ha they might but would charge 5x as much for the honour.

Is it where the pipe comes into the property or does it run through it elsewhere?

 

[diynot]

Shorten it. Now that sounds interesting. Will that leave enough room to fit Slimline Integrated Dishwasher?

 

[Irish]

No they won't as Killy says it after the meter so down to you , his advice is pretty good I'd pay heed to it in your situation , you doing the plumbing yourself?

 

[ADM360]

You'll want your plumber to have a look, if it's black then it could be thin wall 3/4" or thick wall 1/2", Ask your plumber he'll have an idea on the best way ahead.

 

[diynot]

Yes comes in to the property. House Built in 1974.

 

[Killy Bing]

How far away is the water meter from where it enters the property?

for that note where are you based?

 

[ADM360]

And what type of floor is it? concrete or wood floating?

 

[diynot]

No The Plumber will do. I just wanted some Ideas for my benefit.

I am 100% certain the plumber would put forwards the best plan of action.

But does not hurt to pick some brains.

 

[diynot]

Water meter is about 20 meters. I am in Lancashire

 

[ADM360]

don't want to pick to hard! not got much left!! Brains that is!!

 

[diynot]

concrete floor.

Wow Guys I am struggling to keep up. Thanks for your responses.

 

[Killy Bing]

Hmm, if you're intending to stay in the property i would look at running a new 25mm mdpe pipe back to the meter, looking back at your posts about having a combi, new kitchin and new bathrooms.

seems the logical thing to do to get better flow rates.

 

[ADM360]

Killy Bing has a point there, may be a good time to upgrade, be better to do it now than once the kitchens in and you the discover you can't achieve the flow rates for your new boiler!!

 

[diynot]

See that's what I mean. never thought about this.

Cost wise on average how much would it cost to run a new 25mm mdpe?

 

[ADM360]

25mm mdpe is around £30 for a 50m coil, then its a couple of fittings so material wise around £50, but it the labour time to lay the pipe, 20m run is probably cheaper to dig a trench than mole!! but I don't get involve in that side I just put the pipes in!

 

[Killy Bing]

25mm mdpe is around £30 for a 50m coil, then its a couple of fittings so material wise around £50, but it the labour time to lay the pipe, 20m run is probably cheaper to dig a trench than mole!! but I don't get involve in that side I just put the pipes in!

Whoops sorry adm

Youre looking more 100 quid materials imho.
And your guys labour for laying it, connecting to the meter and the internal house connection.

you have the costs of getting the trench too

 

[diynot]

a few zeros eh............well that puts that idea to rest.

Thanks everyone. This thread can now close.

Hope this helps others.

 

[Killy Bing]

a few zeros eh............well that puts that idea to rest.

Thanks everyone. This thread can now close.

Hope this helps others.

wait up, i was posting between a few threads and took this as a different job!

have another read

 

[ADM360]

Must be more expensive up where you are Killy Bing! length of pipe, new stopcock and male iron at the other end!!

 

[Killy Bing]

Must be more expensive up where you are Killy Bing! length of pipe, new stopcock and male iron at the other end!!

Silly me posting elsewhere and mixing up the pages!!

 

[Dusty23]

If like most intergrated units , there is normaly a void beneath the dishwasher of approx 120mm , the legs jack up to suit different units , if you can shorten the pipe and fit a 90 degree elbow you may get away with sliding the dishawasher over it and fit a new stopcock to suit your needs .

cheers Dusty

 

[gassafe]

There's a lot of talk about pitting in a new bigger main all of a sudden, just for a combi?

Most properties only have 15mm into them, and the combi and unventeds are working okay... Probs worth checking your flow rate & pressure on the existing incoming supply.

 

[Killy Bing]

There's a lot of talk about pitting in a new bigger main all of a sudden, just for a combi?

Most properties only have 15mm into them, and the combi and unventeds are working okay... Probs worth checking your flow rate & pressure on the existing incoming supply.

what's the point in getting a sports car if you only put a 1 litre engine in it...

 

[tamz]

No point in having a car that can 200mph when the top speed is 70mph :smile:

 

[Killy Bing]

But which would you prefer!!

 

[tamz]

The one that got me from A to B in one piece