Advice needed - 10mm system conversion?

[cr0ft]

A plumber with a pipe freezer and a tool like a Fein should have that replaced within an hour or two at most. Slice the pipe once frozen on both sides of the coil, drain water out between ice plugs and solder a nice bit of new copper onto a mew cylinder connector to boot. No pipe freezer and add another hour onto that for faffing about draining and filling the system to do the job.

 

[1animal1]

What would that cost be roughly croft? I'm eager not spend given we've just moved in and have a million other things to buy. However if you think it's worth getting a plumber in? I'm probably only looking at a couple years use before it's replaced. Cost of 22mm pipe and fittings comes in at £15 for me to do

 

[doitmyself]

Diy, are you saying I'm likely to get the same drop with an unvented?

No, far from it. I was not suggesting that a combi is superior to an unvented but that, if you are having problems supplying two outlets at the same time with a combi, you will probably have the same problem with an unvented. This is because the incoming flow and pressure determines what comes out.

As for ShaunCorbs unasked question why an unvented can do two baths while a combi can't, the brief answer is: because the water is not heated instantaneously.

 

[1animal1]

Thanks doitmyself, and yes I agree that the cold water will reduce the more sources request, but as you quite rightly say, the hot water will be less affected when compared to the combi.

I do find myself with a problem however, currently we are using the electric shower in the main bathroom because we haven't another solution. However what we do with the en suite is still entirely open... Go electric or remain on a thermostat regime - with an increased pressure to make it useable. Bearing in mind that we are considering buying solar panels, electric showers all round could be the answer despite their aesthetics.

 

[1animal1]

Croft, I'm taking your advice and getting the plumber around for this final leak. The bolt to the cylinder looks like it has an integrated piece of copper which I'd have to replace, this would then need soldering regardless which is beyond me. I'd love to learn how to do these types of joints eventually, properly.