Discuss A hundred random plumbing-related questions. in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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WaterTight

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Well, 7..

1. a) Why do some plumbers install some radiators on the hot water circuit? To not have to drain down?

1. b) How much more expensive (if at all) are the special rads you'd need to buy if fitting on hot water circuit?

1. c) Is there any way to externally recognise a rad on the hot water circuit for purposes of isolation before work?

2. If one or more rads on a system needs to be bled relatively often, what would the likely cause(s) and troubleshooting methods be?

3. If you switch the heating and hot water on simultaneously is there always hot water priority? Is it different depending on whether it's a combi or system boiler?

4. Can you over-ride what the priority is set at? i.e. feed both equally or one over other...

5. Do you need special flush valves for low-level cisterns or do you use the same as on a close-coupled?

6. If you were drilling through a wall and drilled through a live cable (presuming you're holding a insulated drill and so won't die) and it shorts out the electric... what do you have to do to make that run of cable in the wall and the spur it feeds safe?

7. Some boilers I understand (possibly just combis?) have no pilot light and all-electric ignition. What's the benefit of this type and how standard are they?
 
Hi
Q. 1a On the primary circuit or hot distribution pipe?
1b If fitted to an hot distribution pipe or direct system F&R the rads/towel rail need to be of copper or brass more expensive.
1c Ask client of system history/performance. Possible greater temp difference on flow and return at rad whe gravity feed. Turn off any circulating pump off, monitor heating does it cool at same rate. If secondary return on hot water system, isolate and monitor rad temp. Via air valve purge water into a vessel, if squeaky clean probably open circuit. Scratch rad with a knife to identify material. Trace pipes.
2. Systems pulling air from some where. If you ever find an instant solution bottle it you will be a million air over night.
3. Dependent on the control wiring/settings, although i seam to think is the norm on combi's.
4. Yes but why?
5. Try not to get involved with them of late but think there the same. There will be poeple that know for sure.
6. Cut a box in the wall, connector in box and blanking plate. (plumbers method)take advise from sparks.
7. Use less gas, Probable cheaper to manufacture and fit. So they will become more popular across the board.
 
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If you have this many issues my friend, I advise a qualified plumber/heating engineer.

You'll never get your head around that lot in a zillion years, no offence meant but theres a broad spectrum there!

Doing up a house on the cheap rarely tends to be cheap.
 
Cheers for your answers justlead.
I've no actual need to know any of these answers, just questions that come to mind. I work as a plumber's mate for a bloke but he's not exactly mr chatty so questions are difficult to get answered.

you answer the questions first, then we will have a pop.

On this board you'll be made to feel stupid enough for asking questions alone, attempting to answer them as well would be suicidally stupid.

weird q#s
yes on 2 no on 4
& ??? why?

Weird q's? Didn't think they were so crazy, but oh well. And number 2 wasn't really a yes or no question...
And why? Why what? Why ask questions? Good question. I often wonder that myself. But unfortunately I have plenty more to infuriate you all with so watch this space.

If you have this many issues my friend, I advise a qualified plumber/heating engineer.

You'll never get your head around that lot in a zillion years, no offence meant but theres a broad spectrum there!

Doing up a house on the cheap rarely tends to be cheap.

These are just hypertheticals so no house will fall to pieces. And it may take me a zillion years to get my head round some of these things but since my intention is to manage to do so it can't hurt to give it a try.

I'll try and guess an answer to one of my questions then...
The one I didn't really get an answer to

Well, 7..

2. If one or more rads on a system needs to be bled relatively often, what would the likely cause(s) and troubleshooting methods be?

This is the case in my friend's flat. But when I asked the plumber I work for all I got was "Hmm, there's a problem there."

So I'm guessig some of the things you might do is maybe first try bleeding the rest of the rads to make sure there's no air in the other rads. Then bleed any vents on heating circuit in airing cupboard or elsewhere. Doing it when system is cold. If prob still happening then check water level in f+e tank to make sure air isn't getting in there. If prob still there maybe air locked somewhere? So introducing mains pressure to flush through at one point while draining it from another..?

Any of that make sense? Or ridiculous through and through?
 
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makes sense mate! but try and think about pump positioning and pump speeds, vent pipe positioning and correctly installed. Make sure you are bleeding with the pump off. It could be alot of things to be honest but it is an ongoing problem that heating engineers will come across for many more moons!

My input to your question, if you hit a cable call a sparky buddy!

Dont be afraid to ask questions and if you do answer it wrong on here it is far cheaper than making the mistake in somebodys house. To be honest there is not a plumber in this world that can answer every question asked.
 
i'd of had a go at questions, but just thought it was another lad, with a test tommorow at college, that couldnt be bothered to find the answers.

if your really working for a bloke that wont answer these fairly simple qustions for you, then i think its safe to imagine he dosnt want you to progress too much!

if you ask a question, then reply with your answer, i think you'd be taken more seriously, yes people might take the mick, but at least your being genuine.
 
I think the problem is that perhaps it may have been better to put one question at a time up. Getting a load all at once can be a bit daunting.

Anyway here is a possible part answer to number 1

I'll mail more as I think about them.

1 (a) Seems fair to say, that the thinking behind it may be one of practical application. The rad on the hot water circuit is usually there, either as a solid fuel heat dump or to warm the bathroom.

Its assumed that if you are heating water you might want a bath, so heating the bathroom rad only makes sense. On a modern system it means in the Summer you can warm the bathroom without having to put all the heating on.

In the old days many houses had no central heating, but they could have a heated towel rail in the bathroom, heated off the Primary circuit which acted both as a rad and a towel airer.

In the days of solid fuel, often there wasn’t any heating circuit, so solid fuel back boilers and direct cylinders could get so hot, the water bubbled in the cylinder.
It was always a bit dodgy to get the temperature under control then, as often the fire grate brickwork absorbed heat which stayed outputting to the back boiler long after the damper was shut and so the rad helped take up the spare heat.

That’s beside what Just lead has said, which also helps explain it.

1(b). No off hand idea as to price, but has to be good quality that will not corrode easily usually copper, that is of course, if its used on a direct cylinder primary circuit.

1 (c). Visually may look like a towel airer or not. They usually look like some form of square frame to hang towels on. But you can get them that look like ordinary rads.

You can usually heat hot water and shut C/H off, if it gets warm, its on the hot water circuit.

To go into all the details would take ages I am afraid, but feel free to ask whatever you want. Nobody will treat you as daft, there are probably things you know many others might not know. And information should be free to all.
 
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