Wiring problem- Lamborghini boiler

[bubblegas]

Hi all.
Just fitted a customers own boiler yesterday, badged as a Lamborghini but looks like a Ferroli to me. He bought from plumb-fix and it came with a really cheap looking wireless stat/timeclock (no brand)
I normally stick to supplying & installing WB's & Salus units
but this job came up and needed the cash.
Never fitted one before (and won't bother again!).
Commissioned the boiler with stat link in place and then looked at wiring in the RF stat/clock.
MI's clearly show choc-block terminals for volt free wires (with link to be removed) but not where to take L & N supply to feed the sender unit.

Stat terminals show:- I intend to wire in boiler at:-
N Neutral Main feed from mains supply ?
L Live Main feed from mains supply ?
COM Volt free feed Leave blank ?
NO Norm Open Volt free feed out ?
NC Norm Closed Volt free feed return ?

On a Salus I normally insert a link between L & COM but reckon I can't on this as it says "volt free feed" and also has an extra terminal NC.

Just to be more confusing, the choc-block with the "link" is hanging outside of the main pull down panel, along with various other wires which do not seem to be L or N, whereas the main L & N supply to the boiler is hidden under a panel with the PCB.

Basically, can I use the mains feed to connect to the stat?

Not suprisingly the tech helpline wasn't open at 6pm on new years eve so I'm going to try on Tuesday but any help from you guys would be much appreciated.

 

[bubblegas]

Sorry, the post didn't show as I'd spaced it to.

Stat terminals /---/ where I intend to wire
N /--/ main N supply to boiler?
L /--/ main L supply to boiler?
COM /--/ leave blank?
No /--/ volt free feed out?
Nc /--/ volt free return ?
I hope this looks a bit clearer!
Thanks

 

[Puddle]

Take L/N from feed to boiler and link volt free circuit through com and NO,as you say obviously remove link between L and com

 

[bubblegas]

Many thanks Puddle.
The MI's are pretty useless except for several warnings about blowing the PCB so I wanted to be sure. It just seemed strange to me (only having fitted WB's) that I have to run 2 wires to the volt free terminals which are literally flapping about inside the casing, and 2 through a grommet to the L & N mains supply under the electrical cover.

I only qualified a year ago, (yes fast-track) got a job, then redundancy so have just started on my own through necessity. I knew it wouldn't be easy but the lack of experience is making it really difficult These training centres have got a lot to answer for.... but that's another topic

 

[sparkygas]

Hmm... be careful the com terminals that have the link in arn't 24v. If they are connecting them to a 230v supply will blow the board/transformer. Get your multi meter and measure com to neutral in DC and AC on the boiler link terminals to establish what type of voltage your dealing with. the mi scematic should make it clear also. Remember the com on the boiler is never voltage free, only the com on the controls will be. If you pick up 24vDC on the boiler com then you must use that terminal to feed the com of the controls. You will need to pick up 230v to feed the live and neutral of the control unit somewhere else (boiler 230 terminals or boiler spur load side). I'm sure that seems clear as mud but just take your time and work through it slowly. Everyone struggles with it at first. WB sensibly make the controls easy but a lot of euro boilers have very weird electronics. Which is why most installers I know just commission in the link and a temporary plug supply to the boiler and tell the owners/landlord they need to get sparks in to fit external controls.

 

[Puddle]

Hmm... be careful the com terminals that have the link in arn't 24v. If they are connecting them to a 230v supply will blow the board/transformer. Get your multi meter and measure com to neutral in DC and AC on the boiler link terminals to establish what type of voltage your dealing with. the mi scematic should make it clear also. Remember the com on the boiler is never voltage free, only the com on the controls will be.
If you pick up 24vDC on the boiler com then you must use that terminal to feed the com of the controls. You will need to pick up 230v to feed the live and neutral of the control unit somewhere else (boiler 230 terminals or boiler spur load side). I'm sure that seems clear as mud but just take your time and work through it slowly. Everyone struggles with it at first. WB sensibly make the controls easy but a lot of euro boilers have very weird electronics. Which is why most installers I know just commission in the link and a temporary plug supply to the boiler and tell the owners/landlord they need to get sparks in to fit external controls.

Obviously terminals from an appliance can be any voltage and should not be connected to without correct information to hand and always good to double check wiring diagrams supplied with correct test equipment

It is also important to be able to use any test equipment correctly

The receiver in question operates switching of com and N/O through a relay system and is voltage free,the 230 supply operates a relay independently ,the link it comes with from the 230v live connection to the common,is purely designed to give power supply to independent side of relay,this could be used and connected to boiler,if the appliance had a terminal for 230v external control devises but often even so 230v supply may well be required to pass through appliance pcb to receiver

Strangely enough,I find most of the installers and maintenance operatives I know carry out there own wiring of boiler controls,as they have a far better knowledge of the controls and there functions than most standard domestic electricians ,as you would expect

imho

 

[bubblegas]

Thanks guys. I did contact a few sparks when I did my first couple of jobs but no-one seemed interested so decided to get on with it myself. I was getting fairly confident and then something different comes along...
Getting the custard to organise a spark after the job is a great idea Sparkygas, I'll try that in future.
Puddles first reply makes perfect sense so I'll test everything, take my time and wire up as advised. Doing the job Tues so I'll get back then.