Why wont my pilot stay lit Glowworm Hideaway 100

[spartacus]

I have a 40 year old Glowworm Hideaway 100.

I have lived in this house for 8 years and it has been faultless, until recently. The pilot light won't stay on.

The boiler has been worked on by a Gas Engineer, but he is stumped and telling me I need a new boiler. I can not afford a new boiler, and and not convinced it is finished yet.

This is what happens...Turn the gas valve to pilot. Press the ignitor. The pilot ignites. Turn the gas valve to main burner, and the pilot goes out. It does not matter how long you hold down the gas valve on the pilot setting; it will stay lit until switched to main burner.

The gas engineer, has replaced the thermocouple, which was found to be snapped. He has also replaced the gas valve, as a bit of a "hail mary". He sourced the valve, but it made no difference.
The Flue Safety Device was also found to have a hole in it. I source a genuine glowworm thermocouple and safety valve.

There is no change. The pilot lights fine but will not stay lit.

Has anyone with experience got any ideas what might cause a pilot to refuse to go to stay lit?

Thanks

 

[Gasmk1]

As it’s a 100 it will have an overheat stat that the thermocouple is fitted through. These can be problematic. But if your present gas engineer can’t sort it try to get someone else

 

[spartacus]

As it’s a 100 it will have an overheat stat that the thermocouple is fitted through. These can be problematic. But if your present gas engineer can’t sort it try to get someone else

The overheat stat. I assume you mean the safety device. That has been replaced. I have checked continuity from the thermocouple to the gas valve. All good.

The flame is NOT pure blue though. I'm not happy about that.

I've asked him to disconnect the gas and check the pipes for blockage. Other than that I'm lost.

Where can you test for current from the thermocouple?

 

[Deleted member 120897]

You mentioned the flue safety device, this is separate from the overheat stat. Thermocouple is tested on the plug end and copper sheath. Agree with @Gasmk1, I think a different engineer may be needed.

 

[spartacus]

You mentioned the flue safety device, this is separate from the overheat stat. Thermocouple is tested on the plug end and copper sheath. Agree with @Gasmk1, I think a different engineer may be needed.

Cheers. We did have that out. I never considered replacing it. Found a really helpful video that helped me understand some of this stuff. ()

I will give the gas engineer one more shot at troubleshooting the problem before i look to get someone else on the job.

 

[Last Plumber]

I wouldn't bother. That is an easy fix for someone who knows the boiler and it sounds like you've bought parts unnecessarily already.
Get someone more experienced with those boilers. Aim at someone over 50 if you can. No ageism intended.

 

[spartacus]

I wouldn't bother. That is an easy fix for someone who knows the boiler and it sounds like you've bought parts unnecessarily already.
Get someone more experienced with those boilers. Aim at someone over 50 if you can. No ageism intended.

I would....but this guy is a "friend". Its kind of an insult to say...im going to get someone else. but yes. i might be reaching that point. His answer.....boiler is F@cked; get a new one. i dont agree. Maybe I'll find someone. Anyone here in Wirral?

 

[Last Plumber]

I would....but this guy is a "friend". Its kind of an insult to say...im going to get someone else. but yes. i might be reaching that point. His answer.....boiler is F@cked; get a new one. i dont agree. Maybe I'll find someone. Anyone here in Wirral?

I haven't seen its condition of course and he has but if it has been well looked after and is in good condition, I would guess it can be fixed.

He might be a friend but you are paying for the repair!

 

[spartacus]

I haven't seen its condition of course and he has but if it has been well looked after and is in good condition, I would guess it can be fixed.

He might be a friend but you are paying for the repair!

He is coming around today to give it one more go, before I get a second opinion.

Can someone please tell me, because everything points to a thermocouple signal. I am wondering if the thermocouple (which is new and to manufacturers spec) is not getting warm enough...it (looks) in the glass window like it is not fully engulfed by the flame.

So, can someone please tell me...when you release the pilot button, but still on pilot setting (ie. dont turn to main burner), should the pilot stay on, as in...should the solenoid stay depressed? or do I HAVE to turn the dial to main burner to keep the pilot on?

Also, should i be able to hear the solenoid disengage after the thermocouple cools down? ie. pilot light goes out, but solenoid remains engaged, indicating the thermocouple is ok?

Is there a way to test if the solenoid is remaining depressed when the pilot button is released?

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Can someone please tell me, because everything points to a thermocouple signal.

Sorry, but thats against forum rules.