Discuss Using compression fittings on a central heating system in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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synbad

Hi, I am about to remove an old radiator in my bathroom and replace it with a heated towel rail. In addition I want to relocate the rail and my question is; do I have to use solder joints to redirect the pipework or is it OK to use compression fittings instead.

My worry is using a blow torch under the floor boards as there are some electric wires in the vacinity and sods law says I will catch one of them with the torch!
 
Hi Compression fitting will be fine. Trades men often use them especially when a little water is present.
 
Just make tripple sure they are sound fittings.. its also sods law that the olive will only seep 2 days after you nailed the board and carpeted!
 
Solder 'end feed' is preferable but as has already been said, compression is quite acceptable. Run the system up at least two or three times so that any joints will expand/contract with hot and cold temps and allow any ptf you may have used to swell and seal, before you conceal. Make sure pipes are supported or clipped and not sagging which will strain on the joints.
 
sometimes compression is all that is allowed , thatched buildings for instance. My home insurers wont allow soldered joints in the upstairs plumbing on my house.
 
Hmm!

Basically compression fittings are nuts just like any nut on a thread. Look around and make sure nothing can knock them or shake the nut loose. Trying the system hot is a good idea as the pipes move as they expand and contract and so could loosen the nut.

But compression fittings are used nearly everywhere and don't seem to cause any problems at all. If you look at your radiator valves they are compression usually. But make sure you get them full socket and do not over tighten. In other words use a compression spanner or one that fits the fittings back nut if you can rather than a giant wrench, thinking the tighter I get it the better it will be.

What you usually do by over tightening, is make the ring dent or mishape the pipe, buckle the ring or the ring can come out of the backnut making the fitting leak or even strip the threads. Its hand tight and about a quarter to half turn more with a spanner, medium sized wrench or similar.

I must admit I have not counted how far exactly I turn teh back nut after getting it hand tight, probably having done so many over the years its kinda instinctive as to how tight it should be.

Its just till you can feel a bit of resistance on the back nut to your torque pressure.

As to using PTFE well that is a choice really, I personally prefer jointing paste watching it doesn't go inside the pipe, but then I was trained in the days of bos white and hemp, not PTFE.

The idea of using PTFE or jointing paste is to make up for any imperfections in the metal to metal seating faces between the olive/ring and the body of the fitting and back nut. But many makers now say you do not need any jointing materials at all. I must admit I instinctively use it and don't feel the fitting is properly dressed without any. But then I am an old school guy. :) :)
 
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When faced with this problem I always use the Rolls-Royce quality compression fittings like Yorkshire Kutterlite, they have a slightley deeper fitting depth and come with the best olives you can buy.

Conex are fine aswell.

I use the cheaper comp fittings (Flowflex) for anywhere that can be easily accesed like under a kitchen sink.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. All done now and am running the system for the next few days before I relay the floor properly.
 
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