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Discuss toilet leaking problem in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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adp

There is water leaking from the bottome of the joint which connets the bowl and outside drain pipe in my house . The nut of the pipe bracket used to seal the joint was corroded. I attached some photos of the toilet. it looks a bit messy since I tried to seal it with gutter sealing with water drips in the mean time. I also assume the toilet design is bad since it shares a drain pile with a hand wash sink.
I would likt to get some advice before I try to fix the problem by myself. Should I simple empty the water in the bowl as much as I can and get the bracket replaced? Do I need to seal the joint with other sealing stuff?
 

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Can't see pictures! Edit. Can now
 
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sorry, i added the pictures now.
It looks the bracket has an arm to the sink. I may have to check it again.
If so, is it possible for me to buy such a spare part in any shop?
Can't see pictures! Edit. Can now
 
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The piece you can see is a 'strap on boss' if its leaking from the rubber. Replace that and put a little sealant round it if its leaking around the boss. ( the plastic piece which bolts round the large waste pipe' then take the small basin pipe out of it undo the bolt and cut and prise it off. And replace it, If ya can't get it off as it may be solvent welded you may have to change the pan connector to and re fit a new boss
 
Thank you very much,
I google 'strap on boss' and do have some results. I'll try to get it replaced on the weekend. Hopefully no need to change the pan connector. It could be a very hard job since the toilet is a very spaced confined cloakroom.

The piece you can see is a 'strap on boss' if its leaking from the rubber. Replace that and put a little sealant round it if its leaking around the boss. ( the plastic piece which bolts round the large waste pipe' then take the small basin pipe out of it undo the bolt and cut and prise it off. And replace it, If ya can't get it off as it may be solvent welded you may have to change the pan connector to and re fit a new boss
 
Hi adp, can you tell what they used to 'glue' the strap on boss in place. Like the guys say, the pan connector will not be solvent weld compatible and should never have been used in the way that it has. A straight piece of pipe with a small pan connector would be better. But if you have to sort it in place, use silicone instead of solvent cement. It is a bodge and none of the pros on this site will like it, but if it gets you sorted and you are happy with it... Use a good silicone like Dow corning anti bacteria, and give it at least 8hrs before you test it, ideally leave it a whole day, i know its frustrating but last thing you want is to compromise the silicone. cheers.
 
Thank you very much.
I went to a plumbing shop today. I was told basically in the same thing. The pan connector can't combine the strap boss in that way.
However I found WC_F26RV in the shop. The item has longer length than the WC-CON1V does. Is it ok for me to use this item to replace the pan connector and get the vent boss connect to the sink pipe? Does the position of vent boss matter? I notice the vent boss of WC-F26RV closes to bowl end. The strap boss in in my leaking toilet closes to the outlet drain pipe. Does a adapter solve the problem?
Anyway the shop staffer said no and he think I should find a plumber to do the job.

www.mcalpineplumbing.com/wc-connectors/flexible-wc-connectors/4-110mm-flexible-wc-connector-long-length-with-universal-vent-boss.html

Hi adp, can you tell what they used to 'glue' the strap on boss in place. Like the guys say, the pan connector will not be solvent weld compatible and should never have been used in the way that it has. A straight piece of pipe with a small pan connector would be better. But if you have to sort it in place, use silicone instead of solvent cement. It is a bodge and none of the pros on this site will like it, but if it gets you sorted and you are happy with it... Use a good silicone like Dow corning anti bacteria, and give it at least 8hrs before you test it, ideally leave it a whole day, i know its frustrating but last thing you want is to compromise the silicone. cheers.
 
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adp that mcalpine wc connector you linked to is exactly what you need. you will also need some pipe and fittings to adjust the run of the basin waste to the new position. if you feel this is beyond you i would suggest you contact a local plumber to do this for you.
 
Sorry for no updated progress for a while.
I replaced the pan connector with wc-f26rv today and got the job done finally. I once tried to reseal the boss with silicone but no sucess. Thank you guys very much.
 
Silcone wont seal to any surface thats wet.

Try 'sticks-all' its fantastic and can even seal when theres water there
 
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