Tips on fixing to dot and daub plaster walls

[Mgrant]

I asked the plaster to solid daub a few areas were I need a good fixing however they haven't. I'll be using long screws to get to the breeze block behind. Any tips on not crushing the plasterboard though. Guess using a hand held screwdriver over a drill driver will help.

 

[thereisawizza]

What sort of kit are you fixing?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

span the gap with 15mm pipe copper normally cut the the depth of the plaster board

 

[JCplumb]

span the gap with 15mm pipe copper normally cut the the depth of the plaster board

That's the way.

 

[AWheating]

If the plasterer has not dabbed where needed and you pull the board back when fixing then let the plasterer worry about it. If they get called back to repair they may consider doing there job correctly next time.

If the plaster is less than 2-3 weeks old you will need to tighten very tight as you will get alittle srinkage and the rad brackets will move alittle. i use 4x12 screws or 6x100 in EU terms.

 

[AlexGas]

These bad boys have done the trick for me in the past.

http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-120mm-100-pack/9008h

 

[leesparkykent]

Why Use Dryline Pro? | DrylinePro - Heavy Duty Fixing Kit for Dry Line Walls

 

[oz-plumber]

What we do is..

Drill the hole through the plaster and blockwork, Get a piece of copper and mark the distance between the face of the plaster and the blockwork, cut it and use it as a spacer.

To alleviate slippage / shrinkage over time, we run a bead of silicon on the back of the rad bracket, so that the bracket is stuck to the plaster.
It stops the bracket from slipping if there is and shrinkage at a later date.
Just make sure the rad is level before the silicon dries, because you will have great difficulty removing the bracket when the silicon has dried - you will take a chunk of plaster off the wall.

 

[NickH]

One trick I've used if there is a void behind the plasterboard. Drill your hole through the board and into the blockwork, bang your plug in and then squirt a load of "chemfix" resin into the void behind the board. Use a screw or nail to clear the middle of the hole so you can get your screw in, give the resin 5 minutes to set and then fix whatever your fixing.
On occasion I've even cut the plasterboard away and fixed a batten to the wall, particularly for things like kitchen wall units.