Discuss Tightness testing on gas installations in the Gas Engineers Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hello. First of all I’m new to this site. I’m in the process of doing my apprenticeship, but now with the current circumstances we are not working. I have a couple of basic questions which no doubt will raise eyebrows, but every body starts somewhere.

In tightness testing. Regarding permissible drops. It outlines new installations and existing installations.... so what would an installation be if it was a partial upgrade. So half existing/half new

in let by. We are testing to see if the ECV is letting by and rising on the gauge. But if there’s an ever so slight constant drop. That would suggest a leak. So what do you do then, if say the tightness test was satisfactory, 1mbar drop over 2 minutes on an E6?

Apologies for the silly questions. But I keep getting told conflicting information and the book doesn’t actually cover everything

thanks
 
Hello. First of all I’m new to this site. I’m in the process of doing my apprenticeship, but now with the current circumstances we are not working. I have a couple of basic questions which no doubt will raise eyebrows, but every body starts somewhere.

In tightness testing. Regarding permissible drops. It outlines new installations and existing installations.. so what would an installation be if it was a partial upgrade. So half existing/half new

in let by. We are testing to see if the ECV is letting by and rising on the gauge. But if there’s an ever so slight constant drop. That would suggest a leak. So what do you do then, if say the tightness test was satisfactory, 1mbar drop over 2 minutes on an E6?

Apologies for the silly questions. But I keep getting told conflicting information and the book doesn’t actually cover everything

thanks
Firstly you Should be isolating the appliances.and looking at any compression joints with a leak detector fluid.
 
If it’s under the permissible drop and no smell of gas then you do nothing you could note it down for reference
 
Isolate all appliances, retest. 0 Drop on pipework.

If I was still getting a drop I'd be looking to my test connections and using a gas sniffer

You may get slight ups and downs due to atmospheric pressure and residual heat in pipe work. Especially if its been recently soldered.

If I still couldn't find it and there was no smell of gas and my gas sniffer was happy then I would be happy to leave a 1mb drop.

The overall approach is cover all the bases, have you checked everything, do as much as possible to be sure it is just a pressure differential and not a leak.

1mb is very very little in the scheme of pressure
 
If it’s under the permissible drop and no smell of gas then you do nothing you could note it down for reference
As I said previously.You should isolate the appliances first and test.I generally as a rule don,t walk away with any permissible drop.Did you previously state it was a new installation?
The peace at sleeping at night is always a priority for me.
you should be carrying out the proper isolate and test which in my experience can take some time.Tip for the future would be to Always test the gas before you carryout any gas works.This Keeps you right.Either way it,s all chargeable to your client.
Which you have to explain to them.
It,s all too easy to jump in and carryout your gas works without doing a tightness test which I,m guilty of in the past.Only to find the existing pipe work was leaking.But it is within the tolerance and as long as the client doe,s not swell gas,It,s your call mate.
[automerge]1587214410[/automerge]
Isolate all appliances, retest. 0 Drop on pipework.

If I was still getting a drop I'd be looking to my test connections and using a gas sniffer

You may get slight ups and downs due to atmospheric pressure and residual heat in pipe work. Especially if its been recently soldered.

If I still couldn't find it and there was no smell of gas and my gas sniffer was happy then I would be happy to leave a 1mb drop.

The overall approach is cover all the bases, have you checked everything, do as much as possible to be sure it is just a pressure differential and not a leak.

1mb is very very little in the scheme of pressure
I,m of the same opinion as Mr Jones
[automerge]1587216422[/automerge]
As I said previously.You should isolate the appliances first and test.I generally as a rule don,t walk away with any permissible drop.Did you previously state it was a new installation?
The peace at sleeping at night is always a priority for me.
you should be carrying out the proper isolate and test which in my experience can take some time.Tip for the future would be to Always test the gas before you carryout any gas works.This Keeps you right.Either way it,s all chargeable to your client.
Which you have to explain to them.
It,s all too easy to jump in and carryout your gas works without doing a tightness test which I,m guilty of in the past.Only to find the existing pipe work was leaking.But it is within the tolerance and as long as the client doe,s not swell gas,It,s your call mate.
[automerge]1587214410[/automerge]

I,m of the same opinion as Mr Jones
Totally Mr Jones.But I can only assume this is a theory exercise which he,s carrying out as he previously stated he is only an apprentice
 
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Hello all. Thanks for the replies. No, this was with an engineer I am working with odd days for a bit of experience. It was an e6 Meter with 1mbar drop over 2 minutes

my question is. Does it come under a new or existing installation. As majority of the gas pipe was upgraded to 22mm. And a new long run to accommodate a new gas fire (which was currently capped off)

I noticed he used the FGA to do tightness test. If it was a water u-gauge you might not even notice the drop was so small. But something constantly dropping doesn’t seem right. We used a full can of leak detector on ever joint and the meter and nothing. There was no isolation valve on the boiler, new fire had a cap end and a bayonet cooker hose. So all appliances couldn’t be isolated.

just interested to know all of your thoughts?

Thank you
 

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