Supporting pipes under floorboards + insulation

[kasser]

Hi,
How do I support with clips pipes run under a floating timber ground floor? The joists are too small to notch or drill into and in any case, there's plenty of space underneath. Where do you place the pipe clips if running perpendicular to the joists?
And if plastic pipes, this means lots of clips, every 300 mm for Speedfit! Lots of floorboards going up?
I've never had to do this yet.
Now I've got a job fitting central heating in a bungalow. Pipes could go under the wooden ground floor or over in the loft. Which route would you take? What insulation would you use? Finally, how do you fit the insulation snugly around with plastic pipe clips in the way?

 

[Last Plumber]

The job is best done from under the floor otherwise you'll be moving furniture as well as lifting floorboards and carpets everywhere. If you go under, you can have it done.

 

[Last Plumber]

If it's plastic I'll have to do it every 300 mm. It seems there's no other way round screwing something every 300 mm whatever support method I choose.

That's one of the reasons Copper is better.

 

[kasser]

More like this:
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/talon...VrZPtCh00uwdAEAQYBCABEgKobfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
but much bigger and wider to accomodate insulated pipes. You screw slide it 3, 5, 10 metres long below the joists, perpendicular to them, screw it in a few places to hold it then slide all your pipes into it.

 

[kasser]

That's one of the reasons Copper is better.

Yes, I may consider copper then despite the price, if I can finish the job sooner.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

More like this:
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/talon...VrZPtCh00uwdAEAQYBCABEgKobfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
but much bigger and wider to accomodate insulated pipes. You screw slide it 3, 5, 10 metres long below the joists, perpendicular to them, screw it in a few places to hold it then slide all your pipes into it.

Use some 100 x 25mm trunking then elec fact should have that

 

[Last Plumber]

Yes, I may consider copper then despite the price, if I can finish the job sooner.

How new to this are you if you don't mind me asking? Is it just the going under that bothers you or the whole thing?

 

[kasser]

Use mlcp then

what's that?

 

[kasser]

Use some 100 x 25mm trunking then elec fact should have that

So expensive. I'd better go under then!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

 

[kasser]

I'm fairly new, thus why I've never encountered a fairly common situation like this before. But I usually encounter situations where I get to run pipes within the first floor. This one is full central heating for a bungalow. About 16 rads. I'm just trying to find a way to run, insulate and clip all these pipes under the floor boards quickly. It's a shame that I may end up using copper out of sight when I could run plastic instead.

Pipes run in the loft means a lot of exposed pipework when dropping down, not as neat as pipes coming up through the floor.

 

[kasser]

There's no furniture or flooring anywhere in the house. Full access everywhere.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

How big are the joists depth ?

 

[Last Plumber]

Well if you prefer, why not go under with a battery drill and screw plastic stand off (wrap over) clips to the underside of each joist and use the plastic push fit stuff?
I personally don't like it but I am old fashioned and like you say, no-one will see it.

Apart from the next Plumber of course!

Have you sorted all your pipe sizing for the circuit?

 

[Burger]

Yes, I may consider copper then despite the price, if I can finish the job sooner.

Probably quicker than speedfit with all that 300mm clipping business

 

[Burger]

It's a shame that I may end up using copper out of sight when I could run plastic instead.

It is a shame, but copper was out long before plastic, and see loads in lofts in the properties I work in, it’s all they used. You need to weigh up the difference, I’m sure there’s not much in it and you’ll be fitting copper - welcome to OldSkool

 

[Aire]

Who remembers Hair felt? that used to be popular didn't it? For those who do not, it was highly flammable and very dusty/hairy to work with. You could come out looking like Chewbacca after an hour or two under there wrapping pipes with that.

I remember that stuff, caught some under a crawl space. Went up like a bonfire, first time I'd had to use an extinguisher on the job. Many spiders died that day

 

[Last Plumber]

I remember that stuff, caught some under a crawl space. Went up like a bonfire, first time I'd had to use an extinguisher on the job. Many spiders died that day

Oh the panic!!! .....It happened to me. Never moved as fast I don't think.

 

[Aire]

Oh the panic!!! ...It happened to me. Never moved as fast I don't think.

Certainly gives the heart a good exercise.

 

[Last Plumber]

Certainly gives the heart a good exercise.

Yes.
This is all bringing back memories. I had a mate who was under a floor and need to take a rest after crawling about so he hunched himself up onto his elbows and put his head up between the joists. As he leaned his head back to rest it on the side of the joist behind and it touched one of the old lead cables which was obviously leaking to earth. It gave him a fair crack and as his head flew forward his forehead hit a brad in the joist in front, lol...... Great days !

 

[kasser]

I'm not one of those who are all copper and no plastic or vice versa. I just choose whatever is best for the job. Usually plastic wins based on price if it's going to be out of sight. Here plastic seemed ideal at first glance, going under the floor, but with all the pipe clipping, going down the copper route may save me time.

I'll have to run a gas pipe from one end of the house to another, so will be using copper under the floor anyway.

I didn't check joist depth as I didn't consider notching or drilling them.

 

[kasser]

I was just wondering - combi boiler will be in the bathroom in one corner of the house and the kitchen in the opposite far, far corner. It will take ages for the hot water to reach the kitchen.

I don't think there's a way around this with a combi? The distance is what it is and there's no cylinder to run a return leg for the hot water.

 

[Aire]

Yes.
This is all bringing back memories. I had a mate who was under a floor and need to take a rest after crawling about so he hunched himself up onto his elbows and put his head up between the joists. As he leaned his head back to rest it on the side of the joist behind and it touched one of the old lead cables which was obviously leaking to earth. It gave him a fair crack and as his head flew forward his forehead hit a brad in the joist in front, lol.... Great days !

I'm laughing just imagining that. It's always funny when your colleagues hurt themsleves, some of my best laughs at work have been at the expense of others

 

[Last Plumber]

I was just wondering - combi boiler will be in the bathroom in one corner of the house and the kitchen in the opposite far, far corner. It will take ages for the hot water to reach the kitchen.

I don't think there's a way around this with a combi? The distance is what it is and there's no cylinder to run a return leg for the hot water.

Use the shortest route possible beneath the floor in 15mm and lagg it well. You probably thought that anyway?
That's all you can do really. Try it, you might be surprised how well it works.

 

[Burger]

Yes.
This is all bringing back memories. I had a mate who was under a floor and need to take a rest after crawling about so he hunched himself up onto his elbows and put his head up between the joists. As he leaned his head back to rest it on the side of the joist behind and it touched one of the old lead cables which was obviously leaking to earth. It gave him a fair crack and as his head flew forward his forehead hit a brad in the joist in front, lol.... Great days !

I bet that never made the accident book

 

[Last Plumber]

I bet that never made the accident book

No, it just made two thuds and everyone laugh!

 

[kasser]

Yes, I'll use the shortest route of course, saves me on piping too.
But I was briefly considering running the pipe in 22mm due to the distance. however, the initial pressure and flow rate at the meter is very high, so losses will be acceptable. And a 22mm pipe I realise now will have too much cold water sitting in it. Maybe run it in 8 mm .

 

[Last Plumber]

Yes, I'll use the shortest route of course, saves me on piping too.
But I was briefly considering running the pipe in 22mm due to the distance. however, the initial pressure and flow rate at the meter is very high, so losses will be acceptable. And a 22mm pipe I realise now will have too much cold water sitting in it. Maybe run it in 8 mm .

I would stick to 15mm personally.

 

[Burger]

Yes, I'll use the shortest route of course, saves me on piping too.
But I was briefly considering running the pipe in 22mm due to the distance. however, the initial pressure and flow rate at the meter is very high, so losses will be acceptable. And a 22mm pipe I realise now will have too much cold water sitting in it. Maybe run it in 8 mm .

Most are ran in 15mm, just go with the MI’s.

 

[kasser]

I agree with 15mm. There'll be just one hot water pipe in the kitchen anyway.

 

[Burger]

How big is this bungalow? 16 rads? did you mean 6?