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Discuss return of... 3 way port, pump, faulty? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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davejones

Hi, I posted as a guest yesterday, as suggested have registered, now have more info.

Took the electronics off the 3 way valve, turned valve shaft manually, only tuns about 45 degrees, but thats normal from what I've read. Electronics looks ok, put it back and left the override switch on.

Checked the pump, took the bleed cover off, shaft was spinning ok, took pump out, impeller seems to be fine, shaft spins when you turn the impeller.

Bled all the radiators and bleed valve by storage tank. Yeah I should have done this first!

So seems to be little to no pressure on upstairs radiators, so much so that i never got a couple of the rads to spit out any water. Re-did the bleed valve on the water tank and that does nothing, no air, no water.

Checked the header tanks, both full, ball cocks working fine when you press em.

Put the heating on see if the pump would make some presure. Tried bleeding the upstairs rads again, bit of air but still stopped after a while with no water. Have checked the rad valves are open. Unscrewed the thermostatic ones completely.

Checked bleed valve by storage tank, still nothing.

Checked that I put the pump in the right way round, has the arrow pointing to the 3 way, and all the dust is on the top of the pump. Checked it's still spinning. Checked I opened the isolation valves correctly.

Pump and 3 way are only about 7 years old.

But stumped tbh. seems like there's a blockage somewhere, could the 3way valve even block like that?

thanks for any advice.

Dave
 
Hi Dave,
sounds like cold feed from F&E tank may be blocked.
first job is find where it T's into heating pipework (15mm to 22mm Tee) and give it a good pasting with a rubber mallet or equivalent.
 
Is go for blocked cold feed. The curse of the blocked "H"
 
Confirm blockage with magnet test. Cut out and replace section where magnet sticks to pipe.
 
As above blocked cold feed sounds like it to me, if you've got a drain off valve, attach a hose open the drain off and see if the level in the tank drops
 
Yeah that was the problem. Took the pump out and opened the isolation valve and nothing came down. Got a piece of coaxial cable and jammed it up a few times and a load of black sludge came down. Luckily got the valve closed again before my bucket overflowed.

All seems to be working fine now.

Thanks for the help!

Dave
 
Thanks for the update Dave, wish more posters were like you, your welcome back anytime.
 
Got a piece of coaxial cable and jammed it up a few times and a load of black sludge came down. Luckily got the valve closed again before my bucket overflowed.

All seems to be working fine now.

It won't be working fine for long though, not unless you do some preventative work to your system like having it flushed , and getting a system filter fitted.
If it's blocked up once already because of sludge then what's going to happen next winter when you switch it all on after leaving it for a few months over the summer?

I always recommend fitting a system filter as it does prevent slugging, as long as it's emptied regularly :)

Watch the videos on this page and you'll get the idea:
ADEY Professional Heating Solutions - Filters - MagnaCleanse
 
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