Discuss Radiator size calculator easy calculations in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Neither link takes account of location parameters or flow temperature, might just as well use a finger in the air... So not compliant with CIBSE Guide A

If both companies continue to promote such practices, they will just compound the problem of poor design.
 
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It makes it worse that so many forum members tell clients not to cut corners, get a proper person in , and then those same people continue to use a tool like those above. Just shot themselves in the foot...
 
It makes it worse that so many forum members tell clients not to cut corners, get a proper person in , and then those same people continue to use a tool like those above. Just shot themselves in the foot...

It's alright though as most forum members aren't mcs or linked to a quality management system and only have to answer to themselves and the ones paying the bill.
 
It's alright though as most forum members aren't mcs or linked to a quality management system and only have to answer to themselves and the ones paying the bill.

LOL, That's precisely why it isn't alright ... I wonder how they sleep at night ? Do they actually understand the impact of their actions on the clients fuel bill? :)
 
LOL, That's precisely why it isn't alright ... I wonder how they sleep at night ? Do they actually understand the impact of their actions on the clients fuel bill? :)

I do, that's why I keep it tight.
 
It makes it worse that so many forum members tell clients not to cut corners, get a proper person in , and then those same people continue to use a tool like those above. Just shot themselves in the foot...

i think what alot of guys do is use such calculators for pricing up work and then will correctly calculate requirements if the job is won. As you know yourself it can take alot of time to design correctly, not worth spending a day in the books if you have not got the money coming in to pay for the time/labour.

also these calculators do normally state that they are a guide only.
 
Not sure this thread is going anywhere but look at it this way.


1) Put a radiator in a space that is too small and your dead.

2) Your under-size radiator may be OK when the OAT is say 5 deg C (5 is arbitrary) I just picked 5

2) Put a radiator in a space that is too big without proper control on it and you are definitely going to waste energy

3) If you size a radiator perfectly for an outside condition of say -2 Deg C when the OAT is 10 Deg C the radiator is oversize.

So what do you do???

You put proper control on each radiator and I don't mean bog standard TRV and you use a boiler with weather compensation.

Are you going to do all this, no.

And BTW, when you installed your system, new or retrofit did you make sure that the roof space has more than 50 mm of insulation and the house is properly draft proof, etc etc it's the whole package if you are going to start banging on about wasting energy, its not just radiators sizing, it's the big picture.

The problem is your plumbers, not environmentalists or members of Greenpeace
 
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Neither link takes account of location parameters or flow temperature, might just as well use a finger in the air... So not compliant with CIBSE Guide A

If both companies continue to promote such practices, they will just compound the problem of poor design.


The links above are I.M.O. great little helpers for those wishing to do a quick estimate.
Plus I've factored in "Plumbers commonsense" an often overlooked attribute.
There's no such thing as the perfect calculation; that's why we have temperature controls/thermostats.

A little sprinkle of Plumbers Commonsense or +C:


  • Outdoor temperature. The amount of heat lost from a building can depend on its location. During a typical winter in Poland, temperatures can range from -16°C on the coast to -24°C in the mountains. The lower the outdoor air temperature, the higher the heat loss is.
  • Building location and wind conditions. Buildings situated in open space and in windy regions lose heat at a higher rate than identical buildings located in a settlement protected from extreme weather.
  • Age of building. Modern buildings are usually better insulated than old, leaky buildings. They have a low rate of heat transfer and therefore need less heating to maintain a comfortable temperature.
  • Windows and glazing. High quality windows reduced the rate of heat transfer and cut the costs of heating for the homeowner.
  • Position of external walls. Rooms without any external walls will have a lower rate of heat transfer.
  • Indoor temperature. The purposes for which the room is used should be considered – the higher the required temperature is, the larger the radiator should be.
  • Heating parameters. In most cases heat loss figures are stated according to the industry standard EN442, i.e. water temperature, flow and return and the indoor temperature are calculated at the level of 75/65/20°C. If the installation operates within different parameters from the ones given or the indoor temperature is lower or higher than 20°C, correction factors must be used.


Wherever possible, radiators should be installed on the external wall under the window. This way, the cold air flowing in through the window is heated by the radiator and distributed evenly around the room. Also, using several small radiators in a large room rather than one bulky radiator will ensure better heat distribution. The physical size of a radiator is also important, so that the room looks well balanced. There is nothing worse than having a small but high output radiator placed against a large blank wall. In terms of room aesthetics, it is better to pick a larger dimensioned radiator with a lower output per square metre. If a radiator is to be covered; for example, by curtains, the radiator should be significantly bigger to account for reduced heat transfer.
In rooms with high air humidity, such as bathrooms and saunas, panel and decorative radiators should not be used unless adequate ventilation is present.

 
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