Rad on plaster board wall

[tommy1712]

I got a customer wanting me to fit a column rad to a wall that's been "dot and dabbed" I am not overly happy because it's not like normal rad brackets that spread the load these are small brackets that use m10 bolts. There is only a 10mm gap to the solid wall behind and he seems to think I can just bolt it straight to the wall, I am not happy with this as the bracket needs to be solid to the wall not 20mm away from the wall!!!!! Any ideas what to do to get round this????

 

[andyplumber2009]

I got a customer wanting me to fit a column rad to a wall that's been "dot and dabbed" I am not overly happy because it's not like normal rad brackets that spread the load these are small brackets that use m10 bolts. There is only a 10mm gap to the solid wall behind and he seems to think I can just bolt it straight to the wall, I am not happy with this as the bracket needs to be solid to the wall not 20mm away from the wall!!!!! Any ideas what to do to get round this????

you should be able to both through to the wall ensuring your rawl plug is well enough anchored. However, i ended up using 100mm fischer bolts as i was bolting heavy rads with a 25 mm gap.
Failing that, what about cutting a 1' hole behind where the bracket would be and using a 10mm packer, that would stop the bracket pulling the PB towards the wall?

 

[stevetheplumber]

you realy need packers to stop the bracket crushing the board ive use a hole saw to cut discs of wood thick enough to take up the depth of board and gap then hole saw the plasterboard if you use something like bthin ply you can build up to the right depth use a hole saw that will be covered by the brackets
bit of gripfill squirted behind the board helps as well

 

[SilentMike]

Just cut 15mm copper to 20mm and slide over the bolt easy

 

[jonnyswamp]

How big are the brackets, cut out section of plasterboard behind bracket ( a bit smaller than the outline of the bracket) fill with dab adhesive making sure adhesive goes behind board as well, trowel flush with wall and once set you can drill through adhesive into solid wall and plug as normal, wont go any where

 

[Ermintrude]

Best solution.

Drill a 28mm hole in wall preferably with hole saw. Gauge depth to masonry. Cut some 28mm tube to req length. Hammer it in to hole left by saw. Drill center with 10mm bit. Fire in some resin shove in stud . Cut stud to length washer and nut then done head nut. Won't move ever. If only 40kg rad use concrete screws and 7.5mm hole with red plug?

 

[gasmanrob]

M10 stud and wall anchors

 

[Ermintrude]

Some anchors need to be pushed against or set with setting tool tho.

 

[plumben]

Mark round brackets on wall cut out 5mm in fill with drylining round screw & plug, or drill once set

 

[cr0ft]

Never had a single problem in 6 years just using frame fixings. 100mm fixings and large screws mean at least 75mm of the fixing and screw will be in the brickwork. The radiator won't be budging..

 

[cr0ft]

I got a customer wanting me to fit a column rad to a wall that's been "dot and dabbed" I am not overly happy because it's not like normal rad brackets that spread the load these are small brackets that use m10 bolts. There is only a 10mm gap to the solid wall behind and he seems to think I can just bolt it straight to the wall, I am not happy with this as the bracket needs to be solid to the wall not 20mm away from the wall!!!!! Any ideas what to do to get round this????

The plasterboard is the wall.. The customer is right on this one. Just use frame fixings, usually 100mm to screw straight through the plasterboard into the masonry wall. Once the bracket is on and these are done up tight you won't be moving the bracket at all, that's for sure. We've fitted rads this way for 6 years and have never had a callback. We offer a free 2 year warranty on all of our work so you can guarantee we would get called back if there was a problem with this method.

 

[Millsy 82]

Anybody used those new plasterboard fixings that they reckon can hold 150kg!!!! I have no doubt the fixings can but not the plasterboard.

To the op I would get holesaw out, small block of wood then rawlbolt through it. The rad won't move then.

 

[cr0ft]

I've used them matey. They are a real pain to fix to be honest, or at least they were to insulation backed plasterboard (board with 50mm insulation on the back). Plasterboard is incredibly strong in shear, i.e. resisting the force of gravity pulling a radiator straight downwards off a wall. If in doubt try ripping plasterboard apart by stretching it along it's length, it's the same thing. Good luck on that

 

[kris]

Is that the ones that were on dragons den. ? Common issue with plasterboard which we always look for a better fixing but at end of day the plasterboard is the problem .
Regarding the column rads . I'd mark where brackets are going and masonry drill all my holes and put raw plugs right into stonewall and just b4 i screw brackets on I'd pump some sticks like sh$t in the hole and screw up brackets and leave to set for an hour or so . You can use really quick drying adhesive (15mins) all weather adhesive . Brilliant stuff even wet surfaces

 

[gassafe]

Anybody used those new plasterboard fixings that they reckon can hold 150kg!!!! I have no doubt the fixings can but not the plasterboard.

To the op I would get holesaw out, small block of wood then rawlbolt through it. The rad won't move then.

Yeah I used them once too, was not that impressed! Very fiddlily & I found the Fischer type umbrella fixing to be stronger on plasterboard.

There called Grip-it & claim up to 180kg lol! They also got backed by a dragon on Dragons den!!