pricing up for little job

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Discuss pricing up for little job in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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supper plumb

And it is a small job too!!
Iv been asked to fit a ISO on a electric power shower the 15mm pipe runs up too the loft on too the header tanks???
how do you go about pricing somthing so small?

the part is £2+??????labour=????I DONT KNOW

my plans are to just turn off mains and cut pipe in loft fit ISO with PTFE and paste clean up water back on check iso and sod off..
 
Minimum charge £45 plus parts, can you turn the water off?
 
It can be the little jobs that can cause the most grief, I always have a minimum charge, you still have to get to the job use your van, pli, road tax, diesel, van insurance list goes on,

Not in it for the fun of it.
 
SS is right, don't be afraid to charge decent money even if it is an 'easy job', if they don't like it and expected you to do it for a tenner or something daft then what have you lost - a tenner or so? What have you gained? Self respect.
 
I agree £45 minimum,but dont know why you use to many materials(paste & ptfe)
 
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supper plumb said:
my plans are to just turn off mains and cut pipe in loft fit ISO with PTFE and paste clean up water back on check iso and sod off..
Click to expand...

Forget the PTFE, if compression fittings needed PTFE they'd come with a roll.
 
You not seen the mass-debates in the past ? Ptfe vs paste vs nothing ! They go on for days !
 
Re reading this is pipe comes from header tank then its not so simple as just turning off cold mains is it ?
 
doh. why did u tell him, I was waiting for the how do i get out the attic to get an end cap thread done on his I phone
 
Just give him an estimate 45 plus parts that's only for the first hour, might take half hour to get to the stopcock and there's no guarantee it'll turn of or you might snap the spindle there's no end of things that could and probably will go wrong
 
Tell him to go put the kettle on then whack it in live. Walk downstairs drink your coffee and collect yer cash.

No mess i hope :lol:
 
tamz said:
Tell him to go put the kettle on then whack it in live. Walk downstairs drink your coffee and collect yer cash.

No mess i hope :lol:
Click to expand...

If he thinks that isolating the mains and using paste and ptfe is needed is the way to go can you really see him snatching it? :)

Can I watch? Pleeeeeeaaaaaaassssseeeee :) :) :)
 
:biggrin5: got the job at £30 labour pluss parts = happy days
 
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went and done it today all done no paste tho:6:
But its beer money for the evening :8:
 

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nout wrong with that. couple of turns of ptfe on the threads and couple of turns on the olives
only couple of turns if it was belt and braces then PTFE & paste
i was tought you should do 10/12 turns on the threads with tape and a smudge of paste on the jointing side of the olive

i only done 3 turns of PTFE sealed nice and no leaks
 
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How_not_to_fit_an_isolation_valve.jpg
 
Should be a full bore valve, I agree with earlier post preferably lever valve, full flow none the less.

If I had seen this on a job I'd think diy. PTFE around olives only.

If you were taught ptfe around the thread can you explain the reasoning behind this.

Thats why it was £30 full bore lever valve is a fiver(ish)
 
supper plumb said:
nout wrong with that. couple of turns of ptfe on the threads and couple of turns on the olives
only couple of turns if it was belt and braces then PTFE & paste
i was tought you should do 10/12 turns on the threads with tape and a smudge of paste on the jointing side of the olive

i only done 3 turns of PTFE sealed nice and no leaks
Click to expand...

You don't want anything on the threads as the threads are only there to assist the squeezing of the olive.
Paste on the olive great!

You shouldn't ever put anything on the threads of a compression joint
 
Surely the pic i in the wrong place. Shouldn't it be in the hall of shame? Honestly, that's worse than most DIY jobs I see.
 
You wanna copyright that photo of yours before someone steals it for their own portfolio.
 
This should be a question on your brain teaser thread..... Why is there ptfe on this valve?
 
First rule of Plumb Club; when asking for advice - LISTEN!
 
you should never have metal on metal water can and will find its path to leak metal on metal thread = water to travel up the thread thats what i was shown by a plumber to do it this way. we all have our own way of doing things
 
supper plumb said:
you should never have metal on metal water can and will find its path to leak metal on metal thread = water to travel up the thread thats what i was shown by a plumber to do it this way. we all have our own way of doing things
Click to expand...

That's on a thread to thread joint. Not a compression.

Your are referring to the type of joint like where an outside tap screws into a wall plate elbow. (No olive)
 
supper plumb said:
you should never have metal on metal water can and will find its path to leak metal on metal thread = water to travel up the thread thats what i was shown by a plumber to do it this way. we all have our own way of doing things
Click to expand...

Never have metal on metal lol
What material is an olive what material is a copper pipe
There a clue in the name lmao
 
supper plumb said:
you should never have metal on metal water can and will find its path to leak metal on metal thread = water to travel up the thread thats what i was shown by a plumber to do it this way. we all have our own way of doing things
Click to expand...

The seal is between the olive and the copper pipe though, paste or ptfe is used to take out slight imperfections in the pipe, there should be no water coming through the thread if there is water slightly nip it up, or dismantle bit more paste or ptfe.

Whoever told you this is wrong.........
 
supper plumb said:
you should never have metal on metal water can and will find its path to leak metal on metal thread = water to travel up the thread thats what i was shown by a plumber to do it this way. we all have our own way of doing things
Click to expand...

Did the plumber who taught you speak English?

Serious question though, is this one of your jobs?
 
working along side a old boy plumbing all new pipe work rads the lot i was shown to rap all olives and threads and when asked to use paste aswell doing what Im told.
i was only allowd to rap joints valves and rap and fit rad tails.
then on too hanging rads fixing clips pipe runs core drilling making up bathroom suites then soldering fitting suites with the boss then helping first fix test then 2nd fix
 
I've called 27 plumbers merchants and they're all out of PTFE.
 
i can sell you some of mine :waving: give me money there not out there just shut on bank holy Monday tut tut tut
 
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supper plumb said:
i can sell you some of mine :waving: give me money
Click to expand...

Surprised you've got any left.

In all seriousness, and I mean this now, if you want to become a plumber you're best learning from someone with lots of experience and preferably qualified. Forget everything you've been taught so far and start over from scratch, get yourself onto a college course too and don't be tempted by fast track offers.
 
im on the card for a 2 year course at my local college.
the guy i worked with done all his valves like this and tails ect never had a leak that i know of?
when i got into college my plans are to start off from scratch because im there to learn and there there to teach!

its just that way iv been shown..
 
supper plumb said:
im on the card for a 2 year course at my local college.
the guy i worked with done all his valves like this and tails ect never had a leak that i know of?
when i got into college my plans are to start off from scratch because im there to learn and there there to teach!

its just that way iv been shown..
Click to expand...
Well if you're willing to accept that what you've learned so far is wrong and knuckle down in college and fully focus on learning and listening you should come out the other end with some well earned certificates. I hope one day you can come back to this thread and see the funny side. ;)

Good luck.
 
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