Noise as cold water storage tank fills

[jneil]

I recently replaced the ball valve on my cold water tank in the loft but ever since then my wife has complained about the loud 'whooshing' noise as the cistern fills. We always had some noise with the old valve but I must agree this is much louder. The valve is a type 2 high pressure.
Any advice or suggestions for a different replacement would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Stanios]

I recently replaced the ball valve on my cold water tank in the loft but ever since then my wife has complained about the loud 'whooshing' noise as the cistern fills. We always had some noise with the old valve but I must agree this is much louder. The valve is a type 2 high pressure.
Any advice or suggestions for a different replacement would be greatly appreciated.

Is there a service valve before the float valve? If so make sure its fully opened as they make more noise when only part open. Also have you swaped like for like? If not some float valves just naturally more noisy..

 

[Fallon1982]

Theres a good chance that the reason for this is because your old ball valve was so scaled up it only trickled out so you could hardly hear it filling up... The new one is scale free and filling up as it should. I've had this with many people in the past because it sounds "different to before".

If it's that bad, try sticking another ball valve in as you can sometimes get faulty or cheap parts.

You could go to a plumbers merchant or even Screwfix and get a more expensive valve. I use these and never had a problem.

Pegler Prestex Float Valve Part 2 | Float Valves | NoLinkingToThis

 

[Best]

I replaced my own part 2 valve with a new, but different brand part 2 valve and it makes a terrible water noise. I guess the valve I used was the standard cheaper type. It has the plastic outlet bend in a rounded shape, whereas the other valves that seemed better have a squared bend on top.
If the pegler valve doesn't improve it, you could also consider using a Fluidmaster Pro side entry valve with brass tail

 

[Fallon1982]

I replaced my own part 2 valve with a new, but different brand part 2 valve and it makes a terrible water noise. I guess the valve I used was the standard cheaper type. It has the plastic outlet bend in a rounded shape, whereas the other valves that seemed better have a squared bend on top.
If the pegler valve doesn't improve it, you could also consider using a Fluidmaster Pro side entry valve with brass tail

Sorry mate but using a cistern float valve isn't a good suggestion at all! Have you ever been to a job when they go wrong and don't shut off? They continue to flow full bore! A job I went to had one fitted and the overflow couldn't cope with the rate it continued to fill up and overflowed over the top of the tank. At least when a brass ball valve goes wrong 9 times out of 10 it just drips/makes a noise when faulty.

 

[Best]

Sorry mate but using a cistern float valve isn't a good suggestion at all! Have you ever been to a job when they go wrong and don't shut off? They continue to flow full bore! A job I went to had one fitted and the overflow couldn't cope with the rate it continued to fill up and overflowed over the top of the tank. At least when a brass ball valve goes wrong 9 times out of 10 it just drips/makes a noise when faulty.

No,- I haven't come across that! They are supposed to be made for the job, whether for a toilet cistern, or a cold water tank and any pressure. They are not just for toilets, although if they did do what you say on a toilet with a external overflow, then that overflow couldn't cope either. I fit the proper flow restrictor supplied with them to suit whatever pressure is on supply. My only reason for suggesting a Fluidmaster is for less noise. I only use all brass valves on cold tanks - part 2 normally, although I don't like the quality of them. I also prefer the larger overflows

 

[Fallon1982]

No,- I haven't come across that! They are supposed to be made for the job, whether for a toilet cistern, or a cold water tank and any pressure. They are not just for toilets, although if they did do what you say on a toilet with a external overflow, then that overflow couldn't cope either. I fit the proper flow restrictor supplied with them to suit whatever pressure is on supply. My only reason for suggesting a Fluidmaster is for less noise. I only use all brass valves on cold tanks - part 2 normally, although I don't like the quality of them. I also prefer the larger overflows

Well i didn't know they could be used for cold water tanks. Ever since I saw the one overflow out the top of the tank, I assumed it was a case of "wrong part for the job" .
You are right, they could do it with toilets. I guess both cases are rare but in my experience I just wouldn't use or recommend them. Only brass for me.

 

[Best]

Well i didn't know they could be used for cold water tanks. Ever since I saw the one overflow out the top of the tank, I assumed it was a case of "wrong part for the job" .
You are right, they could do it with toilets. I guess both cases are rare but in my experience I just wouldn't use or recommend them. Only brass for me.

It's scary the thought that a valve could go full flow. As you say, the brass valves normally can't do that, except if a part 1 valve had its brass end cap missing & the brass pin broke letting the piston push out.
What I dislike is these 3/4" overflows, as I reckon they really require fitted falling to way below the level of the cwt to create a syphon effect. That way it will be a suction effect. Fitting them just at level of tank could be a problem, but these stupid regs don't tell you that.

 

[jneil]

Thanks. The service valve is fully open but it's just as well I checked as the gland is leaking. I did swap for a similar type but maybe a cheap version from Screwfix. Another reply has suggested Pegler Prestex are good so I might try that.

 

[jneil]

Thanks - I think I'll try a Pegler Prestex valve.

 

[Fallon1982]

It's scary the thought that a valve could go full flow. As you say, the brass valves normally can't do that, except if a part 1 valve had its brass end cap missing & the brass pin broke letting the piston push out.
What I dislike is these 3/4" overflows, as I reckon they really require fitted falling to way below the level of the cwt to create a syphon effect. That way it will be a suction effect. Fitting them just at level of tank could be a problem, but these stupid regs don't tell you that.

Tell me about it. I've had a few overflows block up with insulation and all sorts aswell before. Like you say they are only 3/4" so it doesn't take much to get in there.

 

[Fallon1982]

Thanks. The service valve is fully open but it's just as well I checked as the gland is leaking. I did swap for a similar type but maybe a cheap version from Screwfix. Another reply has suggested Pegler Prestex are good so I might try that.

Make sure you change the fibre washer on the tap connector aswell. Using the old washer can cause leaks.

 

[Best]

Tell me about it. I've had a few overflows block up with insulation and all sorts aswell before. Like you say they are only 3/4" so it doesn't take much to get in there.

On the subject of overflows, - watch the insect filter isn't blocked!
Yet again, this is what seems a good idea, but if a tank overflows at any time and there is any scum or debris in the water, the filter will block very easily.
I knew this happened on a new build where the plumbers were idiots and had the feed/expansion tank too full of water and when heating was on the water expanded & overflowed. Idiots couldn't sort it, as obviously hadn't a clue & then the filter got scum in it & next time it overflowed over the tank. That was on a 1 1/2" overflow.

 

[Best]

Make sure you change the fibre washer on the tap connector aswell. Using the old washer can cause leaks.

Or just remove the new tail and change the valve onto the original tail, providing the two are compatible & nut is same thread. Much easier if you are careful

 

[jneil]

That sounds like a good idea - thanks

 

[Best]

That sounds like a good idea - thanks

That's the way to do it with most valves, but be careful to check Pegler valve is same but threads on the larger tail to valve nut, plus also that the new body lets the old tail fully into it.
I am not sure about Peglers part 2 valve as never have fitted one.

 

[gassafe]

Sorry mate but using a cistern float valve isn't a good suggestion at all! Have you ever been to a job when they go wrong and don't shut off? They continue to flow full bore! A job I went to had one fitted and the overflow couldn't cope with the rate it continued to fill up and overflowed over the top of the tank. At least when a brass ball valve goes wrong 9 times out of 10 it just drips/makes a noise when faulty.

Yeah I fitted one in a roof tank once as I didn't have a brass type float valve & the fluidmaster looks to be designed for this purpose also!!

I was called back a few moths later & the tank was overflowing, it does seem the fluidmaster can fail on full bore which is scary!!!

 

[Best]

Yeah I fitted one in a roof tank once as I didn't have a brass type float valve & the fluidmaster looks to be designed for this purpose also!!

I was called back a few moths later & the tank was overflowing, it does seem the fluidmaster can fail on full bore which is scary!!!

Thanks for that info from both of you. I was actually considering using a Fluidmaster Pro side entry valve on my own cwt to test, as the part 2 brass valve is very noisy. Now I will be reluctant to use it and certainly will turn any isolating valves to them back a bit.
Pressure on mains is just over 3bar and it's a 1 1/2" overflow, so probably well capable of taking full flow, but on some tanks & cisterns it won't.
The bottom entry Pro valve comes with a flow reducer, which probably keeps the flow to a more steady amount. Not sure what is in the side entry box.