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Ohhh don't. Fit standard two ports and prog stats or address the two ports and run via ip .

Ufh is excellent. If you do fit ufh oversize your rads by 150% then boiler runs cooler but house same temp also works better with weather comp and alternate energy in future as lower density heat req. if u can afford it wet ufh in bathrooms / will require biscuit job tho. Don't use spreaders house will sound like enamel bath in a hail storm of m10 nuts
 
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Hi, Just posted a long reply and then my internet went haywire when i tried to submit.

I have lightwave RF in my current (smaller) property for all my light switches and power sockets. I also have their TRV's. This allow me individualy controls to all light\wall\radiator sockets that I can control using an app on my phone.

I can also pair the TRV's with a thermostat, but I tired this and got rid.

The trv's have day\night summer\winter temperatures as well as a holiday mode.

They work well for me as in the winter,m I will set the downstairs rads to a higher temperature and the upstairs ones a few C lower.

"Fit standard two ports and prog stats or address the two ports and run via ip"
Sorry, i'm not in the "trade" so don't really know what this means.

"weather comp"
Dito

"will require biscuit job tho"

This neither, help with plumbers lingo would be much appreciated :)
 
Two port is a valve, it's a lot more, reliable, durable and easier to replace. Does your current isystem give you real time feedback on temps?

Weather compensation. Basically makes your heating water temperature inversely proportional to outside temp. So when it's cold boiler works harder but when warm not so hard. - energy saving.

Biscuit mix . Light sand and cement screed on a celotex support to give thermal mass to a suspended floor underfloor heating job.
 
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Thanks for the reply.
Currently there is no central heating system in place. The property is currently 4 one bedroomed flats that I will be converting back into a single dwelling. all flats have storage heaters as well as electric water immersion cylinders.

There is no GAS into the property (this was capped off at the entrance when they were converted 30 odd years ago).
 
First thing to do is get the ball rolling on getting that connection back on. Will be your cheapest form of heating tbh.

unless you feel like being all eco !!!
 
I would look at what your doing with all those controls and save a few ££. Then buy yourself a decent solar array of thermal units . A nice big ACV SLME cylinder and a klover stove and let HMRC pay you for a change.

Before you get back on the gas look at RHI and what might suit you .
 
You can get solar that is flush with roof so most councils can't quibble. Unless it's listed
 
Solar is usually a permitted development even within conservation areas, UNLESS you have specifically had your permitted development rights specifiacally removed.

or:
"in the case of land within a conservation area or which is a World Heritage Site, the solar PV or solar thermal equipment would be installed on a wall which fronts a highway;"

i.e if you put it on a roof or a wall and it projects less than 200mm from that surface you are OK (even though they don't like to admit it and try to charge you for permission letters :) )

Planning Portal - Solar Panels
 
IF designed, installed and commissioned by an MCS certified installer to meet the MCS and RHI regs then Oh YES! :)

There are a number of catches with the DomRHI and there are a number of specific things that have to be done during the design and installation stage to make a Solar Thermal system eligible for the DomRHI, becasue of this a lot of legacy installations aren't eligible.

We spent days researching and learning all the catches, there again, that's our business :)

(You could find out for yourself too - just read the 10 x 40 page documents available from ofgem! - and you still need to employ an MCS certified company to do all the work anyway..)
 
It's very simple, we do it all the time. You cannot 'do-it-yourself' though, as the govt need to ensure it is designed and installed to be efficient and effective. The DomRHI payments and greater efficiency will more than make up for the additional cost of engaging a professional organisation.
 
No Happyflyer.
Only completed on the purchase a couple of weeks ago due to the usual house buying crap that comes up and tests one's patience.

I have a few people coming in to quote me over the next week including someone from this parish.
Still not sure exactly what kind of system i will be putting in but the advice here is invaluable for Ideas which I can get quoted on and help me make an informed choice.
 
Wolverhampton isn't too far from us :) If you ask..
 
Ok, I have been thinking about renewables and done some reading up on it.
Can someone confirm whether my thinking on this is right or put me right where i have misunderstood?

Firstly I would have to follow the insulation recommendations on the green deal assessment thingmy done by an improved assessor?

I was already planning on doing the following [FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Insulation:[/FONT]
[FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif] Internal solid wall to all external walls, loft insulation, insulation in between floors, insulation on concrete floors,secondary glazing I live in conservation area so doubt i will be allowed to swap any single pane to Double Glazing at a reasonable cost.
[/FONT]
[FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Is this something worth persueing with the grant system. I plan to get my builder to quote me on the insulation and compare to Green deal registered offer. If my builder can do for a much cheaper price, will that invalidate the RHI if I plan for a renewable energy systems like Air\Ground source, Solar Water?
[/FONT]According to this site here.
https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/294533/Cashback.pdf
I can get a grenat to cover the cost of some or all of my proposed insulation work?

Secondly: Underfloor heating with Air source heat pump. I know this will be a premium cost upfront over standard boiler\unvented cylinder with RADS and zone valves but with the lower running costs and RHI cashback, it should pay for itself within a few years?

To, qualify, it just needs to be installed and commission by an MCS registered installer, I fill out a form and a cheque comes in through the post every quarter as long as I implement the energy saving recommendation is my green deal assessment (insulation, secondary glazing etc...)?

Looking at the EPCs for my property:

https://www.epcregister.com/direct/report/8606-8026-6729-8196-2173
https://www.epcregister.com/direct/report/9728-1019-7251-1137-7940
https://www.epcregister.com/direct/report/8277-7727-0870-6544-0906
https://www.epcregister.com/direct/report/0353-2882-6114-9097-0685

my combined heat demand will be 41677!!

Looking on the government RHI website here (page 28)
https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/ofgem-publications/87121/essentialguideforapplicantsweb.pdf
would suggest that my RHI payments would be around £1900 per year.

Are my calculations right?


I am bleeding confused already. :(
 
Look just get a man to get a few rads and a boiler your digging a deep hole for yourself, who gives a toss about all this tosh, you just need a bit of heat in winter
as long as you are not heating all of Wolverhampton, it don't matter. were up to 53 post and not a brew made, a rad on a wall, and the first mortgage payment made, its not good enough this, we never had all this tosh when I was a lad, its gone regulation mad, and I will bet you will never get an inspector near your place. Get down B&Q lots of goodies there.
BTW don't forget to get a GSR to fit it all..
 
BTW does Lackinawedge mean you are a bit on the short of cash ????
 
Thanks Happy flyer.
I don't have any system at all in my house and just looking at all options so that I can make an informed choice.
I am moving from a modern 1980's house with Cavity wall insulation, loft insulation and full double glazing to a victorian property about 3 times the size with solid wall insulation, leaving windows and has seen little maintenance over the last 25 years.

I grew up in a similar sized property and can remember how draughty and the nocicable temperature drop the further away from the Rads you moved. Not to mention the amount of 50p's the Gas meter would consume if you turned on the central heating. God knows how much that house would cost to heat now.
 
Lackingwedge means I wish to renovate my house with a restrictive budget.
However, if convinced, i am prepared to make the capital outlay if I can get RHI\insulation cashback from the government and lower utility bills.

If I was a mind to go down to B&Q, fill my trolly with copper, a dozen rads, a boiler and a tank, I would not bother with this site.
However, if that is the expert opinion of the expert heating engineers here, then that's what I would do.
 
I have seen lots and lots of the solid wall insulation jobs at a standstill due to running out of money.

By all means apply for green steal. But don't pay upfront for anything as they will just take you for a ride.

I have a three story Victorian house, I bought seconds of celotex from eBay. I bought 2 lorry loads at £1000 a pop. Something like a million sheets of 100mm.

I dry lined whole house with a ventilated gap behind insulation of 50mm. All foil walls , 99% air tight as all the studs and foil sheets were covered with foil tape.

Celotex in ceilings again 100% vapour barrier and the ground floor I removed the concrete and excavated 350mm and then built a suspended timber floor with 100mm celotex between them and then out wet ufh on top of it.

My loft has a lot of insulation too. It's a warm roof.


I don't think your builder or the green deal will take as much care with insulation.


Your heating system?


Defo ufh ground and bathrooms

Rads on zones above ff.


Unvented.


Don't think ashp is what u really need when on a budget. Solar thermal for your DHW.

Use a decent unvented ACV SL or similar. Pipe your house so that a everything comes back to a "low Loss headder"

Have two spare ports so that an alternative heat unit can be added into system at a later date but for now just hook up a gas boiler / if you can't afford the whole Hogg

Oversize your rads by the same amount say factor of 2 .

I would make the system as versatile as possible .

Get Worcester round to have a look he's the main man
 
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Ermi,

This is going to cost him more than the hoose, think he needs the chap from Grand Design, MC.Cloud they always run out of money in the end, he will be lackin-a-wedge then, come on here for advice and go bankrupt, does he know what he has taken on I wonder, maybe he would have been better down at B&Q like I said, met the chap in the isles at B&Q and get his advice there. Anyway whatever he does its photos before and after we need. No one ever comes back on here and thanks us, sometimes I don't know why we bother.

The Worcester man is a good idea, oversize rads yes, I could commission witness his dual fuel rotary cup burner on the Babbcock & Willcocks boiler in the back yard.

Good luck to him hope he sorts it.
 
I forgot to mention, I am planning to get thick carpet and underlay in most bedrooms. Does this preclude UFH as i know that the maximum tog of a carpet and underlay should not exceed 2.1 tog. The underlay i am looking at it 2Tog on its own (cloud 9).
 
If you want it that thick then have radiators, sod all point of having ufh.

if you're having them for sound proofing then invest in floor stuff.
 
I have seen lots and lots of the solid wall insulation jobs at a standstill due to running out of money.

By all means apply for green steal. But don't pay upfront for anything as they will just take you for a ride.

I have a three story Victorian house, I bought seconds of celotex from eBay. I bought 2 lorry loads at £1000 a pop. Something like a million sheets of 100mm.

I dry lined whole house with a ventilated gap behind insulation of 50mm. All foil walls , 99% air tight as all the studs and foil sheets were covered with foil tape.

Celotex in ceilings again 100% vapour barrier and the ground floor I removed the concrete and excavated 350mm and then built a suspended timber floor with 100mm celotex between them and then out wet ufh on top of it.

My loft has a lot of insulation too. It's a warm roof.


I don't think your builder or the green deal will take as much care with insulation.


Your heating system?


Defo ufh ground and bathrooms

Rads on zones above ff.


Unvented.


Don't think ashp is what u really need when on a budget. Solar thermal for your DHW.

Use a decent unvented ACV SL or similar. Pipe your house so that a everything comes back to a "low Loss headder"

Have two spare ports so that an alternative heat unit can be added into system at a later date but for now just hook up a gas boiler / if you can't afford the whole Hogg

Oversize your rads by the same amount say factor of 2 .

I would make the system as versatile as possible .

Get Worcester round to have a look he's the main man

Ermi where you get the seconds insulation at that price I need a lot of it
 
eBay. It's the one in Wales . His name is rob, call up negotiate and your away. Weekly drops to the north easy. Bought mine 6 years ago! He will bond it to plasterboard even double thickness.
 
A&A insulation 01443 209585

Or the main man
Robbie 07717805726

I didn't give anyone his number and it's a need to know basis.
 
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