Discuss Need to change a 3 port mid position acl lifestyle valve in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Alrite-geezer

Basically, the hw is on but no ch... Tried manually moving the lever to mid position but it's stuck fast!! Iv checked the voltage of the wiring and it's got full power so it's definatly not the motor.. Think the valve has completely seized. Going to change the valve it's an ACL 679H34030L0. I have a fairly new honeywell V4073a1039 sundial y plan valve that I took out of a system last year... Would this be a suitable replacement??
 
Honeywell for me every time - even if the existing is fixable. Don't skimp on the nuts remove the old ones using an olive splitter or hacksaw to free the olives. Also consider once isolated snipping the old cable at the valve and wiring via a small junction box or 5 point plug as this will save messing with the junction box.
 
Yeah, the valve is right at the back under the cylinder, facing the stub wall... It's Gunna be an absolute nightmare to change, just hoping there's no size difference between the 2 as this will cause me big problems
 
There should be little size difference. If you do have to move a pipe a bit try and avoid the one that goes to the tank coil as on older tanks the copper in this area can be fragile. The reason for the nut change is even if the dimensions are the same and the thread on the nuts identical the olive could have grabbed at a different point on the pipe and will have work hardened so could have a gap that would be near to impossible in a difficult location to nip up. If very tight in removal and you can protect flammable surface a little gentle heat from your gas torch will help.
 
Yeah I see what your saying, it will be so awkward to cut the olives off, but peace of mind it will have to be done.... Looking at it, If any pipes gotta move it will be the flow from the motor
 
first thing to check whether to acctuator or valve is seized, if its the acctuator just swap the head, why go to the trouble of a drain down if you havent checked if the valve is working
 
Well I checked all the voltages to the motor and it's all fine, so there's no electrical problem... And the manual lever is stuck fast. Well I'm gonna do the job tonight when I get home, so il post back and let you know how it goes... Il try get a picture uploaded so you can see what I'm up against! Thanks for your help guys
 
Right the valve is in and wired up to a 5 connection plug but the boiler won't fire up now, I filled the system... Followed the instructions on the Honeywell site but still can get it to fire... Any ideas?
 
Stupid question but are room stat/cylinder stat calling for heat?
 
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