Discuss Loud ticking noise from copper pipes in room when heating on in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Ianot

Hi all,

when i turn the heating on the copper pipes (in ceiling area) in one of the bedrooms make a loud ticking noise in a few different areas and it doing my head in. I had a plumber round who said that installing an automatic air vent on the return pipe to boiler should solve the problem as he thinks there's air in the system and the pressure is too much. This doesn't sound like it will solve the problem to me but I'm no expert. I think it's the pipes expanding and knocking off the joists etc. any ideas.
 
Probably pipes laid direct in notches with no insulation. i always use a piece of hairy felt lagging where pipes cross joists.
 
you can pack the joist notches yourself without the need of a plumber. try it and see if it cures it
 
Yeah, this happens when the pipes are jammed against joists /boards, you could take a bit out of the joist so pipes have more room.
 
Hi all,

when i turn the heating on the copper pipes (in ceiling area) in one of the bedrooms make a loud ticking noise in a few different areas and it doing my head in. I had a plumber round who said that installing an automatic air vent on the return pipe to boiler should solve the problem as he thinks there's air in the system and the pressure is too much. This doesn't sound like it will solve the problem to me but I'm no expert. I think it's the pipes expanding and knocking off the joists etc. any ideas.

you had a plumber round who recommended an air vent on what sounds like an expansion /contraction problem

Anyone with an ounce of plumbing knowledge would edge as whats already been said above
 
You could try taking a few pipe clips off if they're on every joist, personally I try to keep the nail in clips to a minimum. Have seen a few problems with pipes ticking due to over clipping, other than that I'm with the lads above.
 
sounds like your 'plumber' is trying to create some work for themselves, like the others said get some boards up and wedge something underpipes pref abit of laggin if there's enough room, if not a few nail on clips should stop any movement, not a big job and I wouldn't pay anyone more than a standard call out charge if I was you.
 
sounds like your 'plumber' is trying to create some work for themselves, like the others said get some boards up and wedge something underpipes pref abit of laggin if there's enough room, if not a few nail on clips should stop any movement, not a big job and I wouldn't pay anyone more than a standard call out charge if I was you.


Dunno about not being a big job/standard call out charge as you have nt exactly seen how much stuff needs to be moved carpet up, chip board floor etc etc like others have said do it yourself if you can or uncover the pipes for someone else to felt wrap offfending pipes
 
exactly move any stuff out the way yourself get any carpets and boards up to is poss, then it is just a standard call out??
 
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thanks for everyone’s feedback. As I suspected what the plumber said about the air vent didn't sound right. I have another plumber calling round next week to have a look and from describing it to him over the phone he thinks its the pipes rubbing off the joists. I don’t have the time to do this job myself so I’ll pay someone else to do it.
I’ll probably get the job done by taking down parts of the ceiling which will be dusty but taking off skirting, wooden floors, underlay and then plywood in the room above is a much bigger job. Some of the plywood boards could go into other rooms which means having to cut them.

I have another question or two, regardless of this issue, do I need an air vent on the return flow. If so, what are the benefits of doing this.

I was also told that I need to upgrade the current pump (grundfos UPS 15-60-130) as its not big enough, I believe this as my house takes a long time to heat up i.e. at least an hour. My house is 3 stories with 11 rads, the boiler is in the loft. Naturally the groundfloor rads take the longest to heat up. What pump should I upgrade to?
 
thanks for everyone’s feedback. As I suspected what the plumber said about the air vent didn't sound right. I have another plumber calling round next week to have a look and from describing it to him over the phone he thinks its the pipes rubbing off the joists. I don’t have the time to do this job myself so I’ll pay someone else to do it.
I’ll probably get the job done by taking down parts of the ceiling which will be dusty but taking off skirting, wooden floors, underlay and then plywood in the room above is a much bigger job. Some of the plywood boards could go into other rooms which means having to cut them.

I have another question or two, regardless of this issue, do I need an air vent on the return flow. If so, what are the benefits of doing this.

I was also told that I need to upgrade the current pump (grundfos UPS 15-60-130) as its not big enough, I believe this as my house takes a long time to heat up i.e. at least an hour. My house is 3 stories with 11 rads, the boiler is in the loft. Naturally the groundfloor rads take the longest to heat up. What pump should I upgrade to?
I would be checking the current pump is set on 3 and checking the radiator balancing before changing the pump
 
The system is only two years old and has been serviced every year. Inhibitor also used.
 
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Id have a rad in the basement loosened and the water tipped into a tray, tested to see it its all sludged up there and manky.

Im working on the presumprion that the system used to perform better 2 years ago and heat up faster.
Therefore also consider a powerflush and chemical clean before throwing money at a bigger more power hungry pump that will also ultimately struggle if its manky
 
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