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Discuss Kitchen drainage design - Please help with constructive critique and advice in the USA area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi. DIY guy here, not a plumber of any experience.
I would be grateful for constructive critique of the drainage design presented by this diagram, accompanied by the following notes and questions:

1) On the left is dishwasher, on the right is washing machine. Purple lines represent standard appliance drainage hoses, running from the appliance and plumbed directly in to the drainage pipe (red lines on the diagram)

2) Having researched, I am super confident that I don't need an air-gap for the WM and as such, a direct connection as illustrated here is perfectly acceptable. As I understand,the principle is that a WM essentially has a built-in air-gap. (Still, I realise it is recommended to hook the drainage hose as high as possible under the kitchen bench, so I will, as illustrated.)

3) QUESTION; Does the dishwasher have a built-in air-gap as per the WM? The real question here is: can I safely (and within UK regs) plumb the DW drain in the same way as the WM drain? As illustrated, I would like to directly connect the dishwasher drain pipe in a sealed fashion, without manufacturing my own air-gap: is this acceptable? If the answer is NO, then is a TUN DISH DRY the correct solution to create the air-gap? If Not, then what is the correct solution?

4) In the case of the WM, should I fit a non-return valve at the point where the appliance hose (purple) meets the drain pipe (red)?

5) In the case of the DW, should I fit a non-return valve at the point where the appliance hose (purple) meets the drain pipe (red)?

6) To the upper right, you see a branch of drain pipe (red) running up at roughly 45 degrees and then up through kitchen worktop (yellow); at the top of this branch I'd be fitting an AAV (green). I think I want the AAV to lessen slow drainage and noisy gurgling et.al. The tricky thing is, this is in a downstairs flat and I've very limited options: this is really the only place that I can site an AAV with an appropriate elevation. In this location, the AAV will be sited directly underneath a combi-boiler and will be covered by a small utility panel for aesthetic reasons. QUESTION: are there regs that prevent me siting the AAV this close to the Boiler? It will be literally inches away from pipework servicing the boiler and directly underneath the boiler itself.

(My plan is to fit the AAV with a compression fitting so that it can be easily removed when access is needed to service the boiler).

7) Is the 45-degree angled run up to the AAV a problem? You can see that the angled run is needed because I want to plumb the AAV in before the P-trap, not after it. My understanding is that the physics of air pressure dictate that this arrangement of the AAV will work just as efficiently as a straight up-down, provided that the AAV itself is fitted to a horizontal position - QUESTION: Is this correct? If not, then why not?

8) After the p-trap, the drain pipe runs through the wall to the bathroom and then directly into the Vertical stack that serves the whole building.

9) The dark blue striped line represents a drainage hose for a Water softener. Again this will be directly connected to the drain pipe. However, in this case, I will be creating an air-gap upstream, much closer to the Water softener, as I have recognised this is needed under WRAS guidelines. I will create that air-gap using a Tun dish, this is not shown on the diagram.

8) QUESTION: Am I stepping on any other obvious land mines with this design?

Draindesign.JPG
 

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With your current design, you won't need an AAV.
Why would you vent upstream of the trap?
The sink & tundish will do that for you.

I would be putting the trap under the kitchen sink and run everything into that waste upstream of the trap.

As for venting the downstream side of the trap, it all depends on pipe size, distance from ventilated drain or stack and the amount or type of fixtures connected to the waste pipe.
 
I don't know what p-trap that is but they would usually be connected to the sink.
As said I would be getting a sink trap with two tails for connecting waste hoses and if necessary a trap with built in aav.
Any length of pipe between sink and trap will start to smell in time so a remote trap is a bad idea.
A separate standpipe is probably still best to avoid smells from appliances coming through sink waste. mcalpine do a 40mm twin hose connector that may be usefull?
 
With your current design, you won't need an AAV.
Why would you vent upstream of the trap?
The sink & tundish will do that for you.

I would be putting the trap under the kitchen sink and run everything into that waste upstream of the trap.

As for venting the downstream side of the trap, it all depends on pipe size, distance from ventilated drain or stack and the amount or type of fixtures connected to the waste pipe.
Re:Why would you vent upstream of the trap? The sink & tundish will do that for you.

In the in-situ configuration (which this design is intended to replace) there is no tundish and as you say, the sink should provide some ventilation. But we still get quite a lot of gurgling and noise and sometimes water emerging from the sink when the WM drains. Perhaps the addition of the tundish will help.

Would you say there AAV could offer an improvement upstream of the trap, if even marginal? Or is it your opinion that there is literally zero benefit to be had given the proximity to the sink?

There is no possibility of fitting an AAV downstream of the trap. Between the lease restrictions, the regulations, and the leasehold restrictions, it isn't an option, so I don't need to worry about it, it is not an option I have available to me.

I would be putting the trap under the kitchen sink and run everything into that waste upstream of the trap.

What you are suggesting here is much closer to the original configuration, so maybe the in situ plumbing isn't quite as bad as I'd thought.
 
I don't know what p-trap that is but they would usually be connected to the sink.
As said I would be getting a sink trap with two tails for connecting waste hoses and if necessary a trap with built in aav.
Any length of pipe between sink and trap will start to smell in time so a remote trap is a bad idea.
A separate standpipe is probably still best to avoid smells from appliances coming through sink waste. mcalpine do a 40mm twin hose connector that may be usefull?
Any length of pipe between sink and trap will start to smell in time so a remote trap is a bad idea.

Tremendously worth knowing for a novice like me - noted, and thanks.

A separate standpipe is probably still best to avoid smells from appliances coming through sink waste.

If I understand what you are advocating here, its two separate systems through to the communal stack, like this:

Sink + Water Softener > P-trap > Stack
Washing Machine + Dishwasher > Standpipe > P-trap > Stack

Is that right?
 

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