Hi, I would like someadvice on my old Kingfisher RS80 MK2 (no overheat stat version) which is very noisy and the gravity returntemp is higher than the gravity flow temp.
I moved in 18months ago knowing the boiler would halve to bereplaced sooner rather than later. What I didn’t realise that it’s a singlepipe system which makes the job a lot bigger (new boiler location, pipework,radiators and possibly new cylinder required), I just need to get the boilerthrough to next summer.
Earlier this year I noticed every time the boiler wason, water was being pushed out of theF&E overflow (also only one radiator was getting suitably hot). I filledthe system with cleaner left it for a week and drained a couple of times. Thelast time it was drained I moved the pump to the CH flow side as indicated inthe MI’s and put a mag cleaner on the CH return. When fitting the pump Iremoved the non-return valve which appeared to be blocked and may well have beenthe cause of the original problem. I did not replace the non-return valve.
The water was no longer pushed out of the overflow and allthe radiators got really hot. What did start to happen was the boiler become very noisy and I wake up most mornings to a 21 gun salute which isgetting worrying and also the hot water is scalding hot (and the F&E tank water quite warm). The boiler thermostatis quite low (1) and appears to be working. I have noticed the gravity returnpipe temp is cooler than the gravity flow pipe (by 10F or so). On checking the manual can see the“Gravity Hot Water Return” and the “ Pumped Central Heating Return” connectionsare swapped. (The “Alternative Gravity Hot Water Flow” is being used). Wouldthis give the boiler noises I can hear?
What is the easiest plan of action. Should I move the pumpback to the return side of the boiler as it was for the last 25 years or so, I would rather connect as the MI’s state. If Iwere to swap the connections what should I seal the joints with, I’m a pasteman, should I use PTFE as well, are the connections likely to undo without toomuch hassle as access is quite restricted down the side of the boiler? ( I’mnot a heating engineer/plumber by trade, I’m a gas engineer and just dosuperficial plumbing work).
I’m also planning to convert to a C Plan to get some controlover the Hot Water Temperature. Allmoney down the drain I know but I get a sharp pain in the ear when the temp indoorsdrops below 24C .
I have some great advice from this site in the past. Thankyou.
I moved in 18months ago knowing the boiler would halve to bereplaced sooner rather than later. What I didn’t realise that it’s a singlepipe system which makes the job a lot bigger (new boiler location, pipework,radiators and possibly new cylinder required), I just need to get the boilerthrough to next summer.
Earlier this year I noticed every time the boiler wason, water was being pushed out of theF&E overflow (also only one radiator was getting suitably hot). I filledthe system with cleaner left it for a week and drained a couple of times. Thelast time it was drained I moved the pump to the CH flow side as indicated inthe MI’s and put a mag cleaner on the CH return. When fitting the pump Iremoved the non-return valve which appeared to be blocked and may well have beenthe cause of the original problem. I did not replace the non-return valve.
The water was no longer pushed out of the overflow and allthe radiators got really hot. What did start to happen was the boiler become very noisy and I wake up most mornings to a 21 gun salute which isgetting worrying and also the hot water is scalding hot (and the F&E tank water quite warm). The boiler thermostatis quite low (1) and appears to be working. I have noticed the gravity returnpipe temp is cooler than the gravity flow pipe (by 10F or so). On checking the manual can see the“Gravity Hot Water Return” and the “ Pumped Central Heating Return” connectionsare swapped. (The “Alternative Gravity Hot Water Flow” is being used). Wouldthis give the boiler noises I can hear?
What is the easiest plan of action. Should I move the pumpback to the return side of the boiler as it was for the last 25 years or so, I would rather connect as the MI’s state. If Iwere to swap the connections what should I seal the joints with, I’m a pasteman, should I use PTFE as well, are the connections likely to undo without toomuch hassle as access is quite restricted down the side of the boiler? ( I’mnot a heating engineer/plumber by trade, I’m a gas engineer and just dosuperficial plumbing work).
I’m also planning to convert to a C Plan to get some controlover the Hot Water Temperature. Allmoney down the drain I know but I get a sharp pain in the ear when the temp indoorsdrops below 24C .
I have some great advice from this site in the past. Thankyou.
