Help!!!! Please please please help!!!! Heads gonna go bang!!!!

[fubar1000]

Stressed is a understatement....

Right here we go. Ideal Logic Plus 24kw combi. Plumb Center's own brand room stat.

Followed the boiler MI's to wire the room stat in, didn't work.

Phoned Ideal TEC, followed what the lovely girl was saying, didn't work.

Phoned Plumb center for a copy of the room stat MI's, followed that, didn't work.

Ideals MI's are saying 'remove link, wire in room stat with 2 wires'. Didn't work.

I must of tried every possible combination of wires. STILL DON'T BLOODY WORK.....

Please help!!!! Before my head goes BANG.... :mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2:

Many thanks peeps

P.s I'm s&%t with controls, really need to brush up on them quick....

 

[Barry98]

sound like control might be buggered to me

 

[fubar1000]

sound like control might be buggered to me

That's all I can think of. But what is putting me off is that Ideal are saying only 2 wires (remove loop) & it should work????

Many thanks for your input BOD!!!!

 

[diamondgas]

If it works with the link in but not when you wire the stat in then you've got a dodgy stat or the wires in the wrong place on the stat! Does the room stat require a neutral? Is it basic or programmable? Digital or a rotary dial?

 

[fubar1000]

If it works with the link in but not when you wire the stat in then you've got a dodgy stat or the wires in the wrong place on the stat! Does the room stat require a neutral? Is it basic or programmable? Digital or a rotary dial?

Boiler works fine with link in

Room stat is a basic, rotary type & I'm not 100% sure if it needs a neutral or not as I have no MI's for the stat.
Ideal said today it make's no odds where the wires go on the stat, it's where they go on the boiler that's important
Many thanks for your input

 

[diamondgas]

How many connections on the room stat? Also try twisting the wires together/linking them temp at the room stat to make sure the wire is sound

 

[fubar1000]

How many connections on the room stat? Also try twisting the wires together/linking them temp at the room stat to make sure the wire is sound

Think there is 1-4 plus a earth. That's a very good idea linking them together, why didn't I think of that LOL

I'm back there Thursday, armed with a new stat hopefully, but I'll give your ideas a try first, Big thanks

 

[diamondgas]

If there's 4 terminals then it's most likely got a heat anticipator in the stat which will need a neutral. You may be connecting to the neutral rather than the switch live? Don't know off hand what is what regards conections to be honest

 

[plumber0808]

I had this with a cheapo salus stat it needed a neutral.
im sure plumbs branded products are re badged honeywells

 

[dancinplumba]

will still work without neutral, but wont give correct temp

 

[mfgs]

It will work without a neutral. Have you got a picture of the stat? Chances are you are wiring into the wrong terminals or the stat is knackered.

 

[tamz]

Ideal said today it make's no odds where the wires go on the stat, it's where they go on the boiler that's important

Top advice that one. A bit like saying it doesn't matter where you put the wires in a 13A plug. Halfwits.

There will be a wiring diagram on the back of the stat cover and as said, 4 terminals means it takes a neutral. Whether it "needs" a neutral or not to work depends if it has a relay.
Test it with a multimeter or a wet finger (pay as much attention to that last bit as you should to the lassie from ideal)

 

[fubar1000]

Thanks peeps, your all super stars.... Really need to get it sorted on Thursday so I would still welcome as much advise as poss

 

[tamz]

A lesson on how to read the diagram on the back of a stat for as much as a domestic heating guy needs to know.


Terminal 1 power in (from boiler or time switch)
Terminal 3 power out (to boiler or motorised valve, to switch it on) ie when it is cold
Terminal 4 power out when the stat is off ie when it is hot (you won't need this one)
Terminal 2 neutral. (ignore the other N on the drawing it is the neutral to the boiler (heating load))

If you look at the drawing, terminal 2 connects to a squiggly line then to terminal 3.
This squiggy line is what is called an anticipator or accelerator. It is really just a small resistor. When there is a demand for heat the switch (the line at 45º going from 1 - 4) flicks over and supplies power to terminal 3 sending power to the boiler and also to the resistor.
This resistor then has a live and neutral acting on it and heats up. This makes the stat more accurate and faster reacting to changes in temperature.
If you set the stat to 20º it will switch off at 20º and on again at 19º (more or less)
If you don't connect the neutral the stat may switch off at 21º and switch on again a 18º. Much less accurate and slower acting.

Most stats switch from 1 and 3

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

and op you really need to learn how to use a multi meter continuity would have told you all you needed to know quickly would have saved a few bob on phone calls and stopped you stressing