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JAH HEATING

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Plumber
Gas Engineer
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Tend to stay away from these, have a job to go to that's doing the following.

Hot water fine, has heating on an when it reaches temperature it doesn't come back but goes to LF.

ignition fault, but it's fine on water?

Was thinking that it's condensing more in CH mode, maybe blocked sump / condense?

Was going to check thermistor aswell as all other checks, inlet pressure, FGA etc.

Maybe a strip down aswell, not looking forward to this one. Have a feeling could spend few hours on it, with various things being changed (probes etc an seals)

Thanks
 
Normally electrodes or a completely blocked sump and condense trap. The condense trap is tiny and it doesn't take much to block it.
 
Normally electrodes or a completely blocked sump and condense trap. The condense trap is tiny and it doesn't take much to block it.

Can I unblock the sump without taking everything apart? or is it best to start taking fan / burner out and pouring water down?

It has a strip at bottom doesn't it if I remember rightly?
 
What do people charge servicing these piece of cr@p?

Without parts, I'd be wanting at least ÂŁ100?
 
Yeah there is a plate at the bottom with 3 screws that comes off. If it is blocked there is likely to be a bit of water there, so be careful. If you give it a full strip down then make sure you fit the upgraded probes to hold the insulation around the burner as they are prone to failing.
 
Yeah there is a plate at the bottom with 3 screws that comes off. If it is blocked there is likely to be a bit of water there, so be careful. If you give it a full strip down then make sure you fit the upgraded probes to hold the insulation around the burner as they are prone to failing.

Thanks
 
If the sump, coni trap , coni pipe etc are blocked they make horrendous banging noises , defo clean it out though , also flame rec lead disintegrate and cause LF .
 
If you take the fan off and burner at least you can see the electrodes and insulation , it all comes off very quickly.
 
Keep wet vac ready if you think it's blocked. Prob the condense trap. Change the electrodes, earth pins and gaskets if needed and suggest customer start planning for a new boiler.
 
Haven't been to this one as of yet, but was at and Ideal Isar that was banging every now and on initial firing.

Took the cover off to check the sump, some crap in there and took condense out and cleaned that. Still did the same thing.

Took the burner and fan out and, through some hot water down heat ex. The ignition probe gap was alot bigger than 3.5mm, so replaced that and seals. Put it all back together, thinking these aren't bad to work on these, dead straight forward.

Switched in on to get H F !!

Spent and hour easy arsing around with this fault, I honestly was thinking the bloody board had gone at me but eventually it came back on !!

The flame rectification probe, may have got water on it was bone dry when I took it out to examine so god knows
 
They are the worst boilers ever! I hate them with a passion.
 
What are people charging labour wise on a service on these, with probes being changed?
 
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