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cant find a manual anywhere!!

could someone point me to one?

another thing, have you got to stip it all down to change the prv?
cheers
 
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The Worcester site, click on the installer tab
Then gas boilers or discontinued literature on the left
 
Changed a few
they are sods basically!
last one I done I managed to do it from underneath but not easy- cut my hands to shreds! One before had to take the boiler off coz the pipework was a mess! My mate works for WB he takes out the block most of the time or passers the job off to a nipper!!!!
 
Iv done it without, the scars never quite healed. I think it's genuinely easier to have the hydroblock out.
 
You're right but you have to agree it's a crap design and in my opinion. I'm accredited with WB and regularly send feedback to them but they never seem to listen to installers or their engineers- up their own backsides think I'll change to Vaillant!
 
I know it should only be a quick job and more accessible FACT, but I've done the PRV and also the ex vessel numerous times on greenstars and to remove the whole boiler is quicker IMO. Drain down and isolate valves, Condense disconnected, flue disconnected, ex vessel disconnected, five nuts opened boiler off. If you remove the block there's more 'O' rings, washers and seals to replace than removing the boiler.
 
read about the seals.

what about these, will they all need changing or is it just a good idea?

so they come in a service pack or what do you order?
 
I know it should only be a quick job and more accessible FACT, but I've done the PRV and also the ex vessel numerous times on greenstars and to remove the whole boiler is quicker IMO. Drain down and isolate valves, Condense disconnected, flue disconnected, ex vessel disconnected, five nuts opened boiler off. If you remove the block there's more 'O' rings, washers and seals to replace than removing the boiler.

I'd rather fit a 2" length of steel pipe up my bum by the sounds of it. Taking a boiler off the wall is always my very last option. You are probably right but dammmmm that's not a prospect.
 
read about the seals.

what about these, will they all need changing or is it just a good idea?

so they come in a service pack or what do you order?

Never done it this way but gasman has just wrote on the other thread that its easier to cut and remove the cold inlet and create room to get into the PRV, sounds like a good idea if you can get your hand in.
 
I'd rather fit a 2" length of steel pipe up my bum by the sounds of it. Taking a boiler off the wall is always my very last option. You are probably right but dammmmm that's not a prospect.

Really is quite a simple job to remove these boilers, unless I'm just sadistic...lol
 
only going to say this again CUT THE COLD MAIN AND REMOVE IT,EASY JOB THEN
 
I've tried the cold main a few times. I find although it's easy to remove and refit PRV, trying to get clip in is a bloody nightmare.

I take the block out now, 4 washers at flow, rtn, cold and hot, 2 screws at back and 2 metal washer on top of pump and flow. Leave gas pipe in place and it twists out.

They do a clip and seal pack for the greenstars which is very handy to have in the van.
 
You're all missing the obvious, rip out the piece of carp and fit a decent boiler (Intergas). If you've got to take it off the wall you're halfway there and may as well save the customer a flood when the LH hydroblock lets go.
 
I've tried the cold main a few times. I find although it's easy to remove and refit PRV, trying to get clip in is a bloody nightmare.

I take the block out now, 4 washers at flow, rtn, cold and hot, 2 screws at back and 2 metal washer on top of pump and flow. Leave gas pipe in place and it twists out.

They do a clip and seal pack for the greenstars which is very handy to have in the van.

that the one with green seals in from plumbcentre?
 
Don't thinkso. 87161072240 is the part number. Ain't cheap though, but does include almost everything you need to work on the wet parts. There's loads round here so always gets used
 
what a load of feking shiete!!
got the job done now i notice a climb on the pressure gauge from 1-2.2bar, its all over the shop!!

however, i have now developed an easy way of changing the prv using the mains pipe removal (thanks mark) and the use of a small self tapper screw!!!

next one should take no more than half an hour to do...

if its any thing other than a prv on these boilers, then the customer can feck off and find someone else!lol
 
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