Flexible tap connectors

[sk4]

Hi, i would like some advice re-flexi tap connectors. Did a google search, and the feedback seems to conclude how unreliable they are. My question if they are so unreliable and prone to failure why are they on sale? are they possibly getting such bad press due to not being installed correctly? ie, kinks and twists. would appreciate what the pros experience of these connectors are and would they consider using them. Alot of new builds seem to have them installed, is this just cost saving? Where these connectors have been installed would you recommend replacing? thanking you all in advance.

 

[Phil]

All I will say is this.....

I attend more leaks to fibre washers on hard plumbed taps than flexis.

 

[SimonG]

Ditto.

 

[Best]

All I will say is this.....

I attend more leaks to fibre washers on hard plumbed taps than flexis.

I couldn't agree more! That's another issue but & as much to do with choice of fittings as anything else. For taps on sinks & basins that are designed for an olive (tapered), I would use nuts & olives with copper pipes into the taps. On bath taps, no choice, - I use 22mm soldered tap fittings but will not rely on the fibre washers supplied with them. On toilet cisterns with plastic fill valve, I will often use a 15mm soldered connector or bend, but there again, I won't rely on fibre washer. Never any will leak even years later. Just a matter of avoiding stupid inferior materials - as with nasty flexies.

 

[Whyme]

the only problem i have with most flexis is the internal bore, a lot of failure is due to being shoehorned in and kinking.

 

[iiplumbing]

I never use cheap flexibles

I prefer to use JG (speedfit) with tap connector one end and push fit the other

The way to get these hoses to fail is to twist them when you tighten the nut up or to force them to bend on two different axis or to try and make them offset too big a distance.

What fails is the internal pipe right by the ferrul

As the other above have said most tap connector failures are caused by fibre washers.

As a matter of course, I replace any fibre washer with a rubber one, once again I use the ones supplied by JG (20 in a pack costing £6) They are not cheap but as I charge for each then its not an issue for me.

Rubber seals are also better to use on a plastic thread on a toilet fill valve. They seal with just a small amount of tightening, whereas a fibre washer requires more and has a greater chance of stripping the thread - unless you use a fluid master pro fill valve with brass shank - I do like those as well!

Russ

 

[Best]

^^^^ I do exactly the same - use rubber flat washers designed for tap fittings. Think Hepworth do them. Thought I was the only person doing this! :smile:
I don't however use any plastic pipe or fittings, just copper.
And, as you say, the brass shank valves are great to just use a nut & olive.

 

[rpm]

I carry brass tap extensions and fit them on plastic shank valves, never leaks but agree rubber over fibre washers.

 

[rpm]

Found these 2 the other week.

 

[leepoll]

Flexi's are ok as long as you don't use cheap tat. Use WRAS approved and they are usually fine.

 

[AWheating]

correctly installed flexis do have a limited lifespan over other materials like copper but the cheap ones only last a few years if installed correctly. if you buy good quality ones that are wras approved they should last a good amount of time.

the problems you get is many taps come supplied with poor quality flexis, if your on contract work, you fit ehat comes with the tap. If your doing your own private work you can charge and replace them with better quality ones. you can get pex lined flexis which should last alot longer than rubber? its also sometimes easier with standard taps to use hand tight push fit connectors and either copper or plastic, especially if its hard to get a spanner in.

 

[zzzjim]

Does any movement in Flexi , cause fatigue if pressure keeps surging

( Long term failure mode ? ) .​

( Still expect flexis to fail as weakest point , if heating is neglected )​

( ... and Ice starts bursting / damaging things------or am I wrong ? )
​

 

[sk4]

Purchased from b&q. Wras approved. Do you think these will be ok? Thank you.

 

[Koogatubac]

Dont use a flexi straight on a isolation valve. Use a flat face fitting such as a male iron to copper 1/2"

 

[PlumbBobBob]

Dont use a flexi straight on a isolation valve. Use a flat face fitting such as a male iron to copper 1/2"

have you seen the new fittings from toolstation? Toolstation > Plumbing > Flexible Connectors > Tap Tail Adaptors

 

[Dannypipe]

have you seen the new fittings from toolstation? Toolstation > Plumbing > Flexible Connectors > Tap Tail Adaptors

Good idea.

 

[Koogatubac]

have you seen the new fittings from toolstation? Toolstation > Plumbing > Flexible Connectors > Tap Tail Adaptors

Yeah mate, a few plumbers ive seen have used '1/2" radiator tails'

 

[WaterTight]

good idea, too expensive.

 

[WaterTight]

actually i say good idea but i've never had a prob with putting flexi's straight onto iso's and never been called to a leaking one but personal experience can often be distorting. i understand why it's not ideal.

 

[Dannypipe]

Agreed too expensive. Never thought of rad tails. I chuck a fair few of those in the scrap bin over the course of a year!

 

[Koogatubac]

Keep em danny, wont take long putting them between a service valve and flexi. If the rubber compresses on a flat surface it wont dome, whereas if its domed like the inside of a isolation valve the rubber does the same to seal

 

[stratplus]

so how do these flexis fail, do they split when they have been kinked?

 

[Phil]

I tried the rad tails on a kitchen tap and they leaked an absolute treat, I use end feed to male iron couplings and solder a few up on a weekend and put them in my toolbox. 99p each inc VAT so slightly cheaper then the Toolstion ones, but then again its the time taken to solder so maybe about the same.

 

[Dannypipe]

Why do you think they leaked?

 

[Phil]

Why do you think they leaked?

It was the dreaded wet fingers at hometime with tools in van and coat on..........to be fair when I looked the ends weren't perfectly flat so they were cheapy ones.

 

[emergencyman]

I always spend a few minutes filing down one end of the service valve so that the flexi sits nice.
Is it just me?

 

[Best]

I always spend a few minutes filing down one end of the service valve so that the flexi sits nice.
Is it just me?

Lol! Yes, must be just you that does that! Or else you are joking.
2 of 1/2" x 15mm male straights @ 80 pence each to do it quickly & properly - or sit & file one end of 2 isolating valves flat, - think I would do the male straight way. :smile:
I do, however, spend time to scrape the paint of the connection faces of circulating pumps that come painted, before I fit them. Probably only me that does that!

 

[emergencyman]

No not joking ,it works a treat and don't usually have any 15mm x 1/2 although things may improve now toolstaion stock them.

I also make fibre washers from PTFE, stick things down with Plumbers Gold.

I used to extension multikwik piece A the wrong way round but in m old age have started buying pan connectors !

 

[Best]

No not joking ,it works a treat and don't usually have any 15mm x 1/2 although things may improve now toolstaion stock them.

I also make fibre washers from PTFE, stick things down with Plumbers Gold.

I used to extension multikwik piece A the wrong way round but in m old age have started buying pan connectors !

I keep some 1/2" male straights as there are a lot of taps nowadays with flexi hoses with nut & rubber washer at ends. Also like to have 1/2" male bends which are sometime handy to allow a hose to bend in a large curve to lose it's length.
I also use ptfe to make washers for tap connectors as it won't perish but I often now use the flat rubber washers that are made for plastic tap connectors, except I use them on copper tap connectors.