Does the placement of the injector tee look correct?

[spudseven]

You can see the flow from the stove top middle and the return to the stove continues about a foot just behind the fridge and then turns back into the wall and stove just behind. Thanks

 

[Chalked]

That's a weird injector tee! But if it is, that's correct. The pump assists the Gravity hot water when heating is on.

 

[spudseven]

Thanks I did but the tee in a plumbers merchants.....

I actually get more hot water than I need if I take out the tee will I get more heat to the rads which struggle a bit to get hot.

 

[tamz]

Leave it in. If you remove it the gravity circulation to the cylinder will stop when the heating is on.
If its a solid fuel one, the rads never heat great unless you employ Casey Jones' stoker

 

[Best]

The injector tee will prevent the pump when it turns on reversing the gravity circulation by pulling the flow down.
You shouldn't be touching the injector tee as it is needed and very likely to be on the stove MIs.
Normally a 4 connection stove will have 2 flow pipes coming from the 2 stove top connections but only one return pipe, which then the injector tee will divide into 2 pipes.
I assume you have a pipe stat clipped onto the return pipe where it leaves the hot cylinder?
If you don't then you will get luke warm rads and boiling hot water and system can boil up. Get that checked.

 

[spudseven]

Thanks Best its a 2 connection stove - pipe stat (set at 55 C) is on the flow just out of photo you can see the wires coming from it down to the pump.....should I change that.

When its getting hot the stove gets what sounds like pulses of bubbles about 2 seconds apart I was wondering in the injector tee was restricting the return....

Very occasionally the whole system works like a dream.

 

[quality]

The sound is probably a small air pocket in the water jacket which is caused by the unit not being level

 

[spudseven]

Now that I really like the sound of - old cottage uneven floor levelled by eye time to go find the spirit level?

 

[Best]

Thanks Best its a 2 connection stove - pipe stat (set at 55 C) is on the flow just out of photo you can see the wires coming from it down to the pump.....should I change that.

When its getting hot the stove gets what sounds like pulses of bubbles about 2 seconds apart I was wondering in the injector tee was restricting the return....

Very occasionally the whole system works like a dream.

Pipe stat should be at the hot cylinder just immediately on return pipe where it leaves cylinder.
That means the pump will not be switched on until the cylinder is getting up to heat. On the flow is madness and also no good on return near stove because it will be too slow to switch on pump (if stove & cylinder are not close together).
The pipe stat has to be set at a temperature that turns pump on before the cylinder overheats, but also critically before the system water pushes up the stove vent pipe into the f&e tank. This takes a while to fine tune.
The injector does not restrict the return. It is only that short piece of 15mm (which sometimes tapers inside) and has no effect on flow really.
Sometimes you will get air noise and is normal when stoves get hot, but the flow needs to rise very slightly & constantly and the hot cylinder must have a coil inside it suitable for Gravity

 

[Best]

One point re the stove perhaps off the level. - The work looks neat in the photo, but a bit DIY as I notice it is all brass compression joints. So things could be wrong

 

[spudseven]

The flow is straight out of the stove for about a foot and then straight up to indirect hot cylinder with a quick return coil....will change the stat thanks.

Neighbour did the plumbing - retired pro.....so maybe a bit old school with the brass compression joints.

 

[Best]

The flow is straight out of the stove for about a foot and then straight up to indirect hot cylinder with a quick return coil....will change the stat thanks.

Neighbour did the plumbing - retired pro.....so maybe a bit old school with the brass compression joints.

I am old school, but never would use compression where I don't have to. Soldered is cheaper and better.
But nothing that says you can't use compression though.
Injector tee in compression is handy.
I prefer to use a bending machine on all bends especially on gravity pipes.
Used to be you could buy standard soldered copper elbows that had a nice swept bend, but sadly cost cutting means you now get bare minimum tight bends.

 

[quality]

I am old school, but never would use compression where I don't have to. Soldered is cheaper and better.
But nothing that says you can't use compression though.
Injector tee in compression is handy.
I prefer to use a bending machine on all bends especially on gravity pipes.
Used to be you could buy standard soldered copper elbows that had a nice swept bend, but sadly cost cutting means you now get bare minimum tight bends.

I agree I fitted a neutralizer a couple of years ago in a tight spot but I was concerned about the gravity movement. It all worked out spot on but I had my worries as to weather it would work

 

[Best]

I agree I fitted a neutralizer a couple of years ago in a tight spot but I was concerned about the gravity movement. It all worked out spot on but I had my worries as to weather it would work

Yes, usually unavoidable using soldered 28mm elbows on the neutralisers and sometimes also male bends in tight spots.
What you have to be careful with also is the coil on cylinder if too flat will cause the hot water to not heat well with neutralisers systems especially.
All you can do with some systems is use a bender on all possible gravity pipework to reduce restriction as much as possible.

 

[zzzjim]

Very occasionally the whole system works like a dream.

That will be it behaving it's self .. Probably in warmer weather !