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Hey, I have mainly fitted mixer bar showers before. I haven't fitted any concealed mixer showers. Do they tell you how far out from the finish wall after tilling the unit should sit? And am guessing you can solder to the mixer, after removing and plastic/ rubber parts. So there's no compression fittings in the floor.
 
You don't get any that you solder to.
They come with either, - female threads for putting male brass fittings, or some have compression connections as part of the body. There are some plastic connections also.
Most have instructions as to what is a min & max line for finished wall.
Some have a protective shroud that has a distance for the max/min finish on it. Once tiling is finished the shroud is binned.
 
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I would personally prefer a surface mounted shower valve. They are usually not very bulky & only the pipes may be sunk in wall if wished. Easier to replace in future & I like the look of nice chrome bends at each side of some makes.
 
Compression fittings in the wall doesn't sound great.

Compression fine in the wall if you do them right & I use paste also.
Best to turn the water on to the valve & check for weeps before you bury the work.
All the pipework soldered joints obviously.
Some of the Aqualisa valves were a plastic body with nasty plastic fittings with O rings for pipe joints & a flange with flat washer to seal to body. Now that is poor IMO.
 
Sorry feller, I thought you were on about the connections for an exposed bar. Compression is fine, just pressure test it if you're worried
 
For bar showers I've always just brought the hot and cold out at 150mm centers and fitted bristan bar shower fixing kits on the surface
 
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