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andekoch

When chasing copper pipe into a wall does it need to be in a sleeve or can it be directly cemented or plastered over? ie will there be any corrosion of the copper from the cement or plaster?
 
in theory yes cement has lime and lime corrodes
not sure of time scale though
i guess you could protect the pipework before plastering not sure how many people do though
same reason gas has to be sleeved when passing through a wall
i think if u only use compression and not a soldered joint it will be fine its mainly joints that need care
 
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Hi. Protect it from the cement, as in the event of dampness present the cement will pit the copper tube. in some cases to the point of leaking. Good Luck
 
I had this problem in my own house, the cement ate through a pipe and created havoc. Once I'd found the leak there was only a small amount of cement that landed on the pipe.

One of my customers had the same problem, pipes were put into the floor unprotected then leaked, it did take 15 years though...
 
Gaffa tape will protect the pipe sufficiently

Cab I beg to differ, whilst the tape will if correctly applied (with a third overlap) protect the copper from the effects of cement and plaster, you should, to prevent any thermal movement of the pipe disturbing the material filling the chase, in which the pipe is buried in, use a continuous outer sleeve, a few mm larger than the pipe, the outer sleeve will allow the pipe inside the sleeve free movement to expand and contract with temperature changes, without affecting the filling material
 
This is what I would prefer to use, but then I have sold my sole to the Frogs:D , and there by law any tube built into either wall or floor, or where just passing through a wall or floor, must be protected by a plastic sleeve

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Follow what the Water Regs guides says. I think its DEFRA do a free down loadable guide on their site. Arrow valves do a bit as well.

The Regs themselves can be picked up from a few places.

Basically, you have got to be able to get at the pipe one way or another after you have fitted it.

Makes sense really for Water Regs part designed to minimize water use, to tell you that. How are you going to repair it if you can't get at it to replace it?

One trick I have used, providing you can get at the pipe above and below, is sleeve it in 3/4" over flow pipe. Then if it does burst, you can cut it at both ends and pull it out. Then simply replace.

If the plaster will not stick over the overflow pipe. Lightly coat the pipe with adhesive cement and throw sand on it to get a rough surface.
 
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These are central heating pipes ? just tie the pipes down and skim over, in the VERY unlikely event of corrosion in 20 years, just fix it !!!
 
was that on the SPUR of the moment:D

Yep, and the OP never even mentioned saddles, shows what some of them are like though does it not

Reckon that some of us have forgotten more than they will ever learn
 
When chasing copper pipe into a wall does it need to be in a sleeve or can it be directly cemented or plastered over? ie will there be any corrosion of the copper from the cement or plaster?

in practice ive found most people use felt lagging for anything buried except gas which has to be wrapped or coated
 
Cement will corode copper over time and the timescale depends of the cement and how corrsive it is

All cooper piping going through cement should be taped or go through a plastic PVC piping.

If you just leave it and it does leak you can be held reliable!
 
Beside all the other things mentioned.

What about expansion?

If you fix the pipes in the wall bare where will they expand too? The chances are the plaster will simply blow off or crack.

If your on an outside wall where will the heat go? Hot goes to cold so probably out the back wall.

If somebody asks you to show you had used an approved method of burying pipes in walls, how are you going to do that in the event of any claim against you?
 
in practice ive found most people use felt lagging for anything buried except gas which has to be wrapped or coated


Need to be very careful with felt lagging .. some felts generate ammonia when wet .. ammonia is lethal to copper .... plastic sleeving is best to protect against damage and allow for some movement at verticals.

I would bet though, that there are more miles of unprotected pipe buried than there is protected .. usually if the conditions are dry then its OK.
Allowance for expansion movement well yes.. but there is a school of thought that if copper is locked in concrete then it can't move thus it can't fatigue crack??

rgds
TG
 
annoying thing is sleaving is so easy to do,cant under stand why people don't do it:confused:,quicker than wrapping it as well
 
I'm just bumping this thread for no particular reason. If it isn't a current topic, don't worry about it, just ignore it and it'll move off the forum list before long. If it is a topic you'd like to reply to though, go ahead. :)
 
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