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Cole74uk

Hi all, I moved house a few weeks ago and seem to be having a problem getting the central heating to stay on when the hot water is switched on. I have the british gas UP2 controller with the wireless WR1 and a danfoss hsa3 valve/actuator. If I press the select button and put the hot water to off and use the select button and turn heating on, adjust the thermostat the heating works as expected. If whilst the heating is on I change the hot water to on with the hot watervtank thermostat down the pump for the heating will turn off but the controller is indicating it should be in. I have also tried selecting the heating to off and watching what happens to the valve when its switched back on, the valve works and for a split second the water pump will come on, but goes straight off and the controller says it should be on.
not sure if the above makes any sense but would be very grateful for anf advice, obviously I dont need the heating on yet but want to make sure I can get it all working. have changed the actuator but it still does the same.
 
It sounds like a wiring error.

Do all the wires go into a large junction box? If so, remove the lid, take a pic of the wiring and post it. It would help if you said what each cable went to.

Can you confirm that the valve is a HSA3; not a HSA3D or HSA3ND or HSA3CD
 
Thanks doitmyself for the reply, I will try and get a picture attached of the junction box when I get home, I can confirm it is a Danfoss HSA3 valve
 
pic 2.jpgpic 1.jpgpic3.jpg

Hope this works and helps, although the pic is up side down
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the pics.

The first thing I notice is that it has not been wired according to the instructions on the lid!

Can you check how many wires there are in the cable from cylinder stat and that they are connected at both ends.

I think you will have to give me a list of what each wire is connected to, at both ends.
 
Thanks, here goes
Tank stat:
Grey not connected, cut short
Black to pos 8
Blue to pos 14
Brown to pos 15
Earth, connected.
Valve:
Brown and white to pos 4
Orange to pos 6
Grey to pos 7
Blue to middle connector
Grunfos pump:
Blue to middle block connected to valve blue wire
Brown pos 13
Earth connected
Room stat:
Grey to pos 3
Black to pos 4
Blue to middle connector
Brown to pos 5
Boiler:
Brown to pos 1
Black to middle connector
Grey to pos 12
Programmer:
All black wires with white numbers on
No 2 to pos 5
No 5 to pos 3
No 3 to pos 7
No 4 to pos 10
No 1 to middle block
No 6 cut short not connected

Then there are red wires linking

5 to 11, 6 to 12, 7 to 8, 10 to 15, 12 to 13 and 13 to 14

think thats it
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks, here goes
Tank stat:
Grey not connected, cut short
Black to pos 8
Blue to pos 14
Brown to pos 15
Earth, connected.
Valve:
Brown and white to pos 4
Orange to pos 6
Grey to pos 7
Blue to middle connector
Grunfos pump:
Blue to middle block connected to valve blue wire
Brown pos 13
Earth connected
Room stat:
Grey to pos 3
Black to pos 4
Blue to middle connector
Brown to pos 5
Boiler:
Brown to pos 1
Black to middle connector
Grey to pos 12

Then there are red wires linking

5 to 11, 6 to 12, 7 to 8, 10 to 15, 12 to 13 and 13 to 14

think thats it
You didn't list programmer or have I missed it in your list?
 
I have downloaded your pics, turned them the correct way up and blown them up.

Boiler Brown to Pos 1? The pic shows nothing in Pos1!

Pos 5: I can see only one wire (and the link to 11)

Pos 11: There are two wires connected (and a link to 5)

Where is the power connected?

There should be a link from the middle strip to the long strip.
 
Sorry, boiler brown wire is to pos 11, missed the one at the end.
pos 5 has the red link wire in the top with the brown wire from wireless room stat and black wire number 2 from the programmer coming out the bottom.
pos 11 has a red link and brown wire from the boiler in the top and a red wire out the bottom to the middle connector block which is the connected to the mains power
 
it might be easier and quicker if you get either a spark (with heating controls knowledge) or a decent heating eng out
 
it might be easier and quicker if you get either a spark (with heating controls knowledge) or a decent heating eng out

Good call, I think it's far too risky to try & advise electrical work like this over a forum!! Heating systems are often a real wiring mess with old & new bits all joining together, earths re-used as live wires etc!! Plus the 3 amp fuse is often upsized by the customer when it blew once! Wouldn't want to be the cause of a electrical fire!!!
 
The wiring is correct - it's a "Y Plan" system; so one of the devices is faulty.

Here is the wiring:

Terminal 1: Not used
Terminal 2: Not used
Terminal 3: Programmer CH On; Room stat common
Terminal 4: Room stat Call: Valve White/Brown
Terminal 5: 240V to Programmer Live & Room stat Live
Terminal 6: Valve Orange
Terminal 7: Programmer HW OFF; Valve Grey
Terminal 8: Cylinder Stat SAT
Terminal 9: Not used
Terminal 10: Programmer HW ON
Terminal 11: 240V Mains
Terminal 12: Boiler Switched live
Terminal 13: Pump Live
Terminal 14: Cylinder Stat Call
Terminal 15: Cylinder Stat Common
Terminal 16: Not used

I agree that it would be easier to get an engineer to look at the system.
 
The wiring is correct - it's a "Y Plan" system; so one of the devices is faulty.

Here is the wiring:

Terminal 1: Not used
Terminal 2: Not used
Terminal 3: Programmer CH On; Room stat common
Terminal 4: Room stat Call: Valve White/Brown
Terminal 5: 240V to Programmer Live & Room stat Live
Terminal 6: Valve Orange
Terminal 7: Programmer HW OFF; Valve Grey
Terminal 8: Cylinder Stat SAT
Terminal 9: Not used
Terminal 10: Programmer HW ON
Terminal 11: 240V Mains
Terminal 12: Boiler Switched live
Terminal 13: Pump Live
Terminal 14: Cylinder Stat Call
Terminal 15: Cylinder Stat Common
Terminal 16: Not used

I agree that it would be easier to get an engineer to look at the system.

i wouldn't of posted that more chance of the op trying to use that for fault finding and blowing/damaging other stuff
 
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