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ideal classic

If you find the boiler lighting and then going out within a few seconds.

The fault is not always linked to the flame dectection. It is mostly linked to the APS.

Give the fan a good clean and the heat exchanger and this should cure the problem
 
Potterton prima, pilot lights then clicks constantly without going to main flame. Pcb, aps and slow fan can cause this. Also seen the tubes to the aps becoming hard and blocking the air flow to the aps. Usually when you drop the pcb housing it kicks in. Also check for the housing pressing on the overheat stat and causing a false reading.
 
Baxi Duo Tec HE or HEA/Potterton Promax Combi HE or HEA/Main Combi HE or HEA.

The serial numbers on these boilers all begin with 3 letters, followed by some numbers. The first 2 numbers are the build year, the second 2 the build week. The rest are random. So for example, a 28 HE A Duo Tec built in the 23 week of 2010 will be CAC1023XXXXXXX.

E119 - Low water pressure - Look for water leak coming from the water pressure switch of the diverter valve spindle. Also check and re-charge the vessel if required.

E133 - Failure to ignite - On older models built pre 2010, the ignition electrodes warp with the heat. They are now re-designed and much better. As a temporary fix, bend them back to make the gap the thickness of a pound coin.

E131 - (not listed) - Can be caused by a few things, sometimes if 2 fault codes come up together, such as E133 (failure to light) then E119 (low system pressure). It can also be caused by power failure during fault code.

E168 - Communication Error (not listed) - Most likely the PCB. Check the voltage and polarity before ordering a replacement.

E160 - Fan fault - Most of the time the fan is faulty. Check the loom to it. If you unplug the rectangular connector block, the fan should run at fall speed. If it doesn't and there's power going to the fan, it is definitely goosed.

E20 - CH NTC sensor fault - Most likely needs replacing. Check resistance on the pins, it should be about 10k when cold.

E50 - DHW NTC sensor fault - Most likely needs replacing. Could have been caused by a leak from it's gasket. It can then corrode the sensor and the loom. This fault should still provide CH, just not DHW.

E110, E125 and E193 - Circulation fault - Pump could be seized or faulty. Also worth checking is the filter located in the return isolation valve behind the blanking cap or (if fitted) the integral filling loop.

Another fault that I have come across a couple of times is with boilers fitted with a verticle flue. The boiler doesn't provide enough hot water. When it fires up, the boiler becomes noisy and eventually goes out. Check the air intake side on the flue test point. If the CO rises the plastic flue exhaust could well be cracked. You'll have to pull the flue apart to check it.

The gas valve on these boilers also need adjusting, the CO2% should be 8.7 on high and 8.4 on low. Adjustment is made on the front of the gas valve, the throttle for high is behind the blue cap, the offset on low is behind the brass flat headed cap. You'll need some Allen keys to do the adjustment. The throttle is a small allen key, the offset slightly bigger.

To ACCESS SERVICE MODE - Turn the potentiometers to min, then turn the DHW potentiometer to the 3 o'clock position and back to the 12 o'clock position twice. The display should change briefly to SF, the LEDs flash and the boiler should light up. Turn the CH potentiometer to MAX (will display 00) for max fan speed and turn back down to MIN for minimum (will display 0). The temp should then cycle with the letter P. To get out of service mode, turn the DHW potentiometer to any position from 12 o'clock (min).
 
Last edited:
Baxi Duo Tec/Potterton Promax Combi HE/Main Combi HE.

The serial numbers on these boilers all begin with 3 letters, followed by some numbers. The first 2 numbers are the build year, the second 2 the build week. The rest are random. So for example, a 28 HE A Duo Tec built in the 23 week of 2010 will be CAC1023XXXXXXX.

E119 - Low water pressure - Look for water leak coming from the water pressure switch of the diverter valve spindle. Also check and re-charge the vessel if required.

E133 - Failure to ignite - On older models built pre 2010, the ignition electrodes warp with the heat. They are now re-designed and much better. As a temporary fix, bent them back to make the gap the thickness of a pound coin.

E131 - (not listed) - Can be caused by a few things, sometimes if 2 fault codes come up together, such as E133 (failure to light) then E119 (low system pressure). It can also be caused by power failure during fault code.

E168 - Communication Error (not listed) - Most likely the PCB. Check the voltage and polarity before ordering a replacement.

E160 - Fan fault - Most of the time the fan is faulty. Check the loom to it. If you unplug the rectangular connector block, the fan should run at fall speed. If it doesn't, the fan is definitely goosed.

E20 - CH NTC sensor fault - Most likely needs replacing.

E50 - DHW NTC sensor fault - Most likely needs replacing. Could have been caused by a leak from the it's gasket. It can then corrode the sensor and the loom. This fault should still provide CH, just not DHW.

E110, E125 and E193 - Circulation fault - Pump could be seized or faulty. Also worth checking is the filter located in the return isolation valve behind the blanking cap or (if fitted) the integral filling loop.

Another fault that I have come across a couple of times is with boilers fitted with a verticle flue. The boiler doesn't provide enough hot water. When it fires up, the boiler becomes noisy and eventually goes out. Check the air intake side on the flue test point. If the CO rises the plastic flue exhaust could well be cracked. You'll have to pull the flue apart to check it.

The gas valve on these boilers also need adjusting, the CO2% should be 8.7 on high and 8.4 on low. Adjustment is made on the gas valve, the throttle for high is behind the blue cap, the offset on low is behind the brass flat headed cap.

To ACCESS SERVICE MODE - Turn the potentiometers to min, then turn the DHW potentiometer to the 3 o'clock position and back to the 12 o'clock position twice. The display should change briefly to SF, the LEDs flash and the boiler should light up. Turn the CH potentiometer to MAX (will display 00) for max fan speed and turn back down to MIN for minimum (will display 0). The temp should then cycle with the letter P. To get out of service mode, turn the DHW potentiometer to any position from 12 o'clock (min).

Excellent post
 
Ideal isar/icos HE. If the boiler lights ok from cold but goes to LF during ignition when boiler is warm check the spark generator. Check for correct DC voltage into the generator and if there is a spark at the electrode. These generators can develop a fault where they only fail when warmed by the ambient heat inside the boiler.
 
When I spoke with Baxi tech regarding the broken baffels they said it is classed as ID (not that they seem to know much themselves about these boilers) as they are there to slow the gasses down and it would effect the flame. I have replaced the baffels before by pulling them through the bottom but the time it takes to do that and the cost of them makes it seem like a bad choice in my opinion. Plus the fact that if you leave a powermax turned off for more than a day several components seem to fail at once for some reason.

Have changed lots of powermax baffles there are whole estates of them round here and very few have been reg serviced so almost always have the baffles corroded and dropped inside the heat exchange tubes. I use a flexible nylon cable pulling rod to get them out. With the sump off push the cable rod past the baffle in the tube reach under the tank in to the sump hook the cable rod hook over the bottom edge of the baffle and pull out the cable rod from above. Hey presto your baffle is out and you can give the tube a good brushing.
 
common problem always asked in the private forum vokera boiler only firing when cover taken off. always a partially blocked venturi or has been in my case.
 
If you're topping up the pressure on a glowworm 30cxi best to do it slowly as they have a tendency to spit out the return filter beside the pump :(
 

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