3 port motorised valve wiring question.

[Dalminty]

Good evening everyone,
Question 1
I have just replaced my 3 port motorised valve head and wired it in.
When looking at my chocolate block connector the orange and grey wires are in different places than the diagram on the instructions shows.
As you look at the terminal block for all the wiring, there are 10 segmants to the chocolate block.
My wiring shows no 8 on the choc block a grey wire and no 7 on the choc bloc a orange wire.
On the instructions,no 8 shows orange and no 7 shows grey.
Could someone please tell me which is correct.

Question 2
Could the above wiring problem affect my heating programmer as I now can't have just hot water without having the heating on aswell.
Before I wired in the new valve I was getting heating on with water aswell.
The programmer seems now to be working the other way round.
The programmer is a Honeywell ST699.

Thanks everyone.
Dal

 

[Dalminty]

The other possibility is is the programmer is set up correctly but there’s a problem with cylinder stat or call from cylinder stat stat to boiler live, maybe a lose wire? Yes CBW this really needs a competent engineer as there’s only so much we can do from a screen on a phone or computer lol

Thanks everyone.
I will try and make explaining a little simpler.
Before I fitted the new Valve head,when sliding the CH on it would not fire the boiler up so I had to slide the HW along to ignite the boiler.
Now after changing the valve head.
I slide the HW to on and it does not fire the boiler the same as it used to.I then slide the CH switch along and it fires the boiler.
This is what makes me think the problem is with the valve wiring as I have not touched the programmer,
Cheers Dal

 

[Burger]

Thanks everyone.
I will try and make explaining a little simpler.
Before I fitted the new Valve head,when sliding the CH on it would not fire the boiler up so I had to slide the HW along to ignite the boiler.
Now after changing the valve head.
I slide the HW to on and it does not fire the boiler the same as it used to.I then slide the CH switch along and it fires the boiler.
This is what makes me think the problem is with the valve wiring as I have not touched the programmer,
Cheers Dal

Ok Dal, let’s try and break this down: at any point were you able to have separate heating, separate hot water or both (mid position)? Obviously you have a wiring fault,but could have always been like that including the programmer. If you are like me and stubborn until it’s fixed then providing you can work safely maybe check this out:

Y Plan central heating system

 

[Dalminty]

Ok Dal, let’s try and break this down: at any point were you able to have separate heating, separate hot water or both (mid position)? Obviously you have a wiring fault,but could have always been like that including the programmer. If you are like me and stubborn until it’s fixed then providing you can work safely maybe check this out:

Y Plan central heating system

Thanks CBW.I could have seperate water,but when ever I put the heat on the water would have to be on to start the boiler.

 

[SJB060685]

I’m not familiar with these corgi branded valves unfortunately. I was under the impression that the levers are for system filling and not a switch to bring on boiler? As CBW has linked, check that out. Also like he said have you ever had independent control?
In the wiring centre how many wires are in the connector with the orange boiler live?

 

[Dalminty]

I’m not familiar with these corgi branded valves unfortunately. I was under the impression that the levers are for system filling and not a switch to bring on boiler? As CBW has linked, check that out. Also like he said have you ever had independent control?
In the wiring centre how many wires are in the connector with the orange boiler live?

Thanks SJB.I am going to have a good look at the wiring and report back to you all with what I find.
Thsnk you all for your time.Much appreciated.

 

[Dalminty]

Ok Dal, let’s try and break this down: at any point were you able to have separate heating, separate hot water or both (mid position)? Obviously you have a wiring fault,but could have always been like that including the programmer. If you are like me and stubborn until it’s fixed then providing you can work safely maybe check this out:

Y Plan central heating system

Thanks CBW.I will have a good look at the wiring and report back to you.Much appreciated for your time.
Dal

 

[SJB060685]

Let us know what you find. I’m a bit busy for a an hour or so now but CBW and the others who commented can help. Before I go for now you say the old valve wouldn’t give CH without HW, that sounds like the second switch had packed up (assuming it’s the same principle inside as a Honeywell).

 

[Burger]

I’m not familiar with these corgi branded valves unfortunately. I was under the impression that the levers are for system filling and not a switch to bring on boiler? As CBW has linked, check that out. Also like he said have you ever had independent control?
In the wiring centre how many wires are in the connector with the orange boiler live?

Let us know what you find. I’m a bit busy for a an hour or so now but CBW and the others who commented can help. Before I go for now you say the old valve wouldn’t give CH without HW, that sounds like the second switch had packed up (assuming it’s the same principle inside as a Honeywell).

I think someone quoted earlier that they are similar to Honeywell.

Dal, did you try the link I sent earlier regarding the Corgi valve? https://www.banicocontrols.com/uploads/media/instruction_954311.pdf

Either way, let us know how you get on. Ciao for now.

 

[SJB060685]

CBW you’re a legend, I’ve screenshot that info

 

[Wbjimmy]

If you decide to try different wiring combinations in your connector box make sure your programmer is independently fused with a 3amp fuse! I incorrectly wired a replacement three way valve and fried mine because it had a 13amp fuse.

 

[Burger]

If you decide to try different wiring combinations in your connector box make sure your programmer is independently fused with a 3amp fuse! I incorrectly wired a replacement three way valve and fried mine because it had a 13amp fuse.

Oops! You live and learn

 

[SJB060685]

If you decide to try different wiring combinations in your connector box make sure your programmer is independently fused with a 3amp fuse! I incorrectly wired a replacement three way valve and fried mine because it had a 13amp fuse.

Am I reading this right. You accidentally wired up a new three port wrong (it happens to all of us) and because there was a 13amp fuse you fried the programmer before fuse blew? That I understand but there should only ever be one fuse on these systems (apart from any that might be in boiler), have I read that wrong?

 

[Wbjimmy]

Yes. Thats exactly what I did. There is one isolating fused switch in my airing cupboard which protects the control box, programmer, 3 way valve and cylinder thermostat. I inadvertently wired up a replacement 3 port valve wrongly and because the isolating switch had been wrongly fused with a 13amp instead of 3amp fuse it burnt out the programmer! So I ended replacing the programmer - as well as the fuse!

 

[SJB060685]

Ah I see. Yes I’m fully aware of how a fuse protects the system and components, however I initially read your comment as you had two switched fused spur lives into the heating circuit. As you know this is a no lol. Was on a job once and the heating circuit had two lives to it through two switched fused spurs, we didn’t realise, isolated the first then got a shock when taking out some of the wiring. Never again lol