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I am wanting to fit a TRV but the radiator tail that come with all the TRVs I can find have the spanner flats on the outside not the inside. The problem is they need a greater distance between rad and pipe. I thought if I could replace the tail piece with a shorter one that still fits on the 15mm compression fitting then that would solve the problem. The existing manual valve is like this (10mm pipe) http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/chrome-angled-radiator-valve/51257#product_additional_details_container
 
not sure what you are saying but the valves on screwfix site are 10mm if you have got new valve that has a 15mm connection then you need a redusing set that fitts in side the 15mm compression as for the conection to the rad one you spanner in the outher you will need a rad spanner that tights from inside but they are the same distances
 
Won't get it sorry op best to alter Pipework

Chris: he's trying to fit the loose nut part to a stnd trv body
 
You may have a bit of play in the pipework, try enlarging the holes in the floor boards where the pipe emergies and simply move them over a bit. If you do both sides you could push the rad over a bit more on it's brackets to give you just enough room. It usually works.
 
You can cut a piece off the new rad tail no more than 10mm though bud cheers k
 
I've read it twice, once sober and now drunk. Struggling to figure out what the op is trying to do.
 
i think we are all at a loss as to your problam can you take a photo so we can determene the out come thanks chris
 
I've read it twice, once sober and now drunk. Struggling to figure out what the op is trying to do.

fit a trv by replacing a lockshield valve

but the trv pipe centres as you know it pushes it out more than a stnd locksheild valve

he wants connect the trv to the lockshield swivel / loose nut
 
fit a trv by replacing a lockshield valve

but the trv pipe centres as you know it pushes it out more than a stnd locksheild valve

he wants connect the trv to the lockshield swivel / loose nut

Got it. Cheers
 
the lock shild and a tvr should be the same 4cm on each he only needs to change the union in the rad then or have i lost this in translation please send a photo to put us all out of are miery
 
Sorry I wasn't clear, and thanks to those who have helped clarify. You have now got to the heart of it Chriswareham, TRV's need 4cm and the standard only 3cm. I had thought I would need more than 1 cm looking at the manufacturer's diagram. I wasn't worried about the downstairs one as the pipes are dropped from upstairs and so I thought there would be enough play, but the upstairs are very short. I have now dug some holes in the walls, as suggested by Darren, and bent one pipe slightly (without changing the angle going into the valve) so I'm sorted - thanks guys. I can now order the valves. :)

The measurement on the diagram is to the internal end of the tail though this is not clear (why would you need that?). I only know it now, so I thought I needed 3 cm not 1cm.
 
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The tail connected to the radiator is a 3/4" socket, TRV valves use a 15mm male and if you need a longer tail City plumbing sell long tails for Radiator connections
 
This is a problem I often come across when replacing radiator valves or radiators. I wish someone would manufacture 15mm rad valve tails that have no nut shape for spanner, but instead have an internal for Allen key. That would gain at least 12mm for a longer shaft on the tail.
As other replies, - screw tail fully tight, cut a small amount off tail if needed, ease pipework if possible.
 
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