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mutley racers

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Morning chaps, hope you are all having a great weekend and chilling n sun. I need some ideas really, the picture below is of a bathroom that is small. Has a 1400mm bath. Client wants to replace this bath with a double shower. But, you can see that the toilet soil pipe runs through the vanity unit and under the bath. But the bath waste is lower down on a seperate run. I just want to know what to do with the soil pipe? How to box it in and really, make it look like a good finish. I don't want it to be a mission to silicone around that side of the tray, but the boxing will come higher than the shower tray. Hope that make sense. 2013-07-06 10.17.57.jpg
 
Just stud it out to ceiling height, board and tile, fit the h+c shower feeds behind
 
Install a saniflo, reduce the size of the pipe, could probably drop it under floor.
 
If you use a saniflo just remember the discharge pipe must have a 1:100 fall and any rise in the pipe must be at the start of the run so don`t go under the floor and then run the pipe up again by even 1inch or the warranty is void.
 
Could be the ideal opportunity to move things around. Put the toilet against the wall where the soil exits, so where the bath is now, then put the shower elsewhere, maybe where the vanity unit and toilet currently are.
 
Sounds good to me. Only use a sani when you have no other option.
 
Put 1200mm shower tray (or 1100mm) where the bath is and as said studwork up to ceiling to meet the tray with shower feeds to conceal the soil pipe. this arrangement is widely used in new builds with internal soil stacks.
 
Could be the ideal opportunity to move things around. Put the toilet against the wall where the soil exits, so where the bath is now, then put the shower elsewhere, maybe where the vanity unit and toilet currently are.

This would be my preference.
 
Thanks chaps, can anyone recommend a good make of shower tray and door. 1200Ă—800. And a nice little vanity unit to go in th room also. I would like a nice heavy resin one I guess. With a plumbkit to raise it.

I cannot go under the floor with waste as some people have suggested as it is in a block of flats. Also, when studding onto concrete floors and ceilings, can you just us gripfil without fixings as am not sure what will be in the concrete? Or shall I just check with detector tool and drill? Scary thought.

The place is only to be rented so no need to put recesses in shower. Like the idea though
 
I will not be able to adjust the layout as I will not be able to get the fall for the shower really. And there would be a problem with the door hitting shower tray
 
The stud would be my answer but no plasterboard, use a concrete board or hardibacker. I'd probably use a Mira Flight or Mira Fligh Low tray.
 
Third for the recess in the stud. Little bit of extra work, but so worth it. In a large shower, you need somewhere to store toiletries.
And it's win win. Custard will love it and you won't have to move soil. :)
 
I would love to have a recess (niche) next to the toilet with three sea shells on it, only a certain few people would get the joke.
 
i like demolition man. Great film. Recess hey, you guys seem to like them. Also, someone suggested putting the pipework for shower behind the stud. But if i did do this, the shower would not be in the middle of the tray?

Also, can I just gripfil battens to the floor and ceiling with the studs or do i need proper fixings?
 
That depends on weather you feel it's a god idea to have access to the trap at a later date should any blockage issues arise. Unless the customer states otherwise its riser kit every time.
 
i like demolition man. Great film. Recess hey, you guys seem to like them. Also, someone suggested putting the pipework for shower behind the stud. But if i did do this, the shower would not be in the middle of the tray?

Also, can I just gripfil battens to the floor and ceiling with the studs or do i need proper fixings?

Not quite sure what you mean by shower in the middle of the tray. It's the norm to bring the hot n cold feeds up through the stud work, spaced and clipped correctly to line up with the valve, then your elbows out through the pb or hardibacker dependant on weather it's a recessed or exposed valve.

Re batons, if it a wood floor I would just use long wood screws, job done.
 
The stud wall will be on the right hand side of the shower tray where soil pipe runs. So the width of shower tray. I need them really to be at the centre at the back where bath is now.

So just use normal tray with riser kit. No upstand yea
 
In that case sleeve anchors bottom, screw top batten to the two end pieces and grip fill the top edge that meets the ceiling.
 
The stud wall will be on the right hand side of the shower tray where soil pipe runs. So the width of shower tray. I need them really to be at the centre at the back where bath is now.

So just use normal tray with riser kit. No upstand yea

No mate, you will need an upstand unless the waste pipework is already sunk under the floor, otherwise you won't get the fall.
 
Cool now you have to figure out how to do it, right ?

Like I said in my pm, nay bother

Ps, cheap vanity unit in Wickes ÂŁ89 notes not bad looking neither
 
Upstand is the shape of tray or something isnt it? Something to do with tiles. Definitely need the feet for the fall.
 
I thought up stands were the lip on top to tile in to and legs were riser kits
 
yeah thats what i thought too - upstands were for the tiler to tile onto thereby effecting a watertight seal, and riser kits were legs to rise the tray up inorder to provide access to trap etc
 
yeah thats what i thought too - upstands were for the tiler to tile onto thereby effecting a watertight seal, and riser kits were legs to rise the tray up inorder to provide access to trap etc

Are yes, now I see what you mean I've heard riser kits being called upstand a in the past. In that case I would recommend a tray with upstand to tile down onto. That way it ain't ever going to leak at the bottom seem.
 
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