Warmflow 70/90 central heating h/l reset

[Anchorhandler]

Hi just joined but have read many posts on here regarding warmflow

About a month ago we had the heat exchanger replaced as all rusted and corroded , now we have to keep resetting h/l button when central heating is on this can be upto 3 times an hour , pressure sits between 1 bar and rises to 3 bar

both pipes on pump are hot and all seems to kick in

has anyone any ideas what to start looking at here

thank you in advance

 

[WHPES]

Release the pressure on the system so the gauge says zero. Use a car tyre pressure tester on the Schrader valve on the red bottle inside the boiler (there is a black plastic cap over it like on a car wheel). This should say 1 bar. If it's lower, use a bike pump or car tyre pump until it gets to 1 bar. You can't do this if the system is pressurised.

With the boiler cold, take off the flexi metal hose which links this to the boiler and stick a screwdriver into the hole in the boiler and check there is no debris blocking it. Check the hose itself is clear and reattach.

If the bottle is still heavy with water after this you need a new botttle, or if the problem repeats you will need to replace the schrade valve stem (take it to a garage which fits tyres) and if that doesnt solve it you need a new bottle.

Don't forget to top up the system inhibitor to prevent your boiler and radiators rusting. If there is rust floating around in the water and the pipe was blocked, then you need a chemical powerflush of your system to stop it happening again.

 

[Anchorhandler]

Ok tried releasing pressure and then attached car pump to red bottle topped it upto 1bar , i then topped up tank pressure to 1bar and fired it up , its losing pressure while heating up .........is this normal

i will try other steps , but am just trying to try a bit at a time

 

[SimonG]

How did you release the pressure? If you used the pressure relief valve has it reseated properly? i.e no water dripping from prv discharge

 

[Anchorhandler]

Hi i did use the pressure relief valve and made sure it reseated proper , no leaks from pipe either

I topped up tank again and it seems to be ok now
when the wife put hot water tap on it cut out and back on h/l reset

 

[WHPES]

You're going to need an expert if those points dont work. If you put your postcode in the "find a technician" on the OFTEC website it will tell you who is local.

 

[kimbo]

If it is the one with the flexible pipes from the pump to the boiler, a common problem with these is that the flexible pipes get blocked either with debris or they sometimes collapse internally on themselves.This would cause your symptom but a drain of the boiler and check the pipes would be needed.It is not something you would be advised to do.

 

[Anchorhandler]

Hi kimbo
yes its the one with flexi pipes going around the back , i am getting an engineer out to have a look and will mention these need to be looked at , one thing i did look at tonight was turning flow meter off and then back on again only had pipes really hot coming from heat exchanger for about 3 seconds then they went cold again

 

[Rozie]

We had this problem last winter we were having to press the reset button all the time, our plumber abandoned us (he was going to override the h/l reset he said but then kept saying he was waiting for a part) but some great blokes on here advised the flexible hoses needed flushing or replacing, we also rang Warmflow who are really really helpful and also advised the flexible pipes break down and need replacing or flushing. We found a plumber and told him the problem he flushed out the flexible pipes and he couldn't believe the rubbish that came out of them, they have lasted another year but we are now having to press the h/l reset about once a week again so we have decided its time to have them replaced.

 

[kimbo]

Wondered how you got on with that one.